Axle swap question, how to?

[greentruck]

I have a 1969 F100, 4x4, 4 speed, dana 21, 390, power drum brakes, and manual steering. My front axle seals are shot and leaking everywhere and my drivers side hub is trashed and needs to be rebuilt. I have a line on set of axles out of a 1976 F100, 44 front and 9 inch rear. I am thinking it will be easier to bolt in the new front axle than rebuild mine. His are not rebuilt or refreshed, but they are in much better condition than mine.

What is involved it bolting up a 76 front axle to my 1969? Steering linkage the same? Do disc brakes on the 76 require any changes on my end? Are the angles on the wedges for the radius arms the same? Are the driveshaft and u-joints the same?

Thanks paul

[CrypticRacer13]

Not sure if those are all bolt in items, but from this site you can find a ton of info in just reading. Here is a like to our own page http://www.fordification.com/bumpwiki/i ... =Main_Page great info for all kinds of needs. Me myself if i was building up a swap id start fresh an reweld new everthing the way i want it. But this is effected by your skill an know how, so feel free to ask as many Q's as needed. Hope you find the right ansewer here

[cep62]

What is involved it bolting up a 76 front axle to my 1969? Steering linkage the same? Do disc brakes on the 76 require any changes on my end? Are the angles on the wedges for the radius arms the same? Are the driveshaft and u-joints the same?

The axle will bolt in, but you need the diagonal track bar from the newer axle.
I cant remember if I used my original steering or not , but the '76-77 style wasn't as good as the '78 -79 style.
the '76-77 had more "bump steer" which isn't a good thing.

You'll need a master cylinder made for disc brakes.

I believe the wedges have the same angle. But I'd put new Polyurethane bushings in, they come with different degrees of caster'
in case you add lift springs.
The drive shaft should bolt up , the worst that will happen is you might need a combo U joint.
(two different sizes in one U joint)

[Doug Comer]

You will need the proportional valve from the disc brake truck or purchase an adjustable one to make it work properly. You should be able to use all you steering linkage. Good luck.
Doug

[greentruck]

I went and looked at the axles this past weekend, they are what I am looking for, but he did not have the diagonal track bar from the front axle. I am going to head to the junkyard sometime this week to see if I can find one, then I will get the axles.

To summerize what I am tracking so far:
- 1976 front dana 44 will bolt right up to a 1969
- I need the track bar that matches the new axle going in
- U joints should be the same
- driveshaft length is ok because they are both HP
- wedge angles are good and replace all bushings while I am in there
- My old steering linkage should bolt up the new axle
- need new portional valve and master cylinder for the disc brakes

If I am missing anything or anybody else has any input please dont be shy.
Thanks
Paul

[greentruck]

I got my axles from Craigslist for $300, Dana 44 HP with Disc Brakes front and a 9 in rear with 4.10 gears out of a 77 F150. I have the hubs and rotors off and hopefully get the axles out today to replace the inner axle seals. I decided to rebuild/ refresh the new axle as much as I can before bolting it in, ball joints, seals, hubs and new bearings. I will try to take some pictures and do my best 'how to' post if I am successful.

Can I take the third member out of the donor 9 inch (4.10 gears) and simply bolt into my current rear? Is there any other considerations than checking the spline count? Any tricks on how to?

[Doug Comer]

For all I know it should bolt in if the spline count is correct for your axles. Sound like you got a good deal.

[greentruck]

You will need the proportional valve from the disc brake truck or purchase an adjustable one to make it work properly. You should be able to use all you steering linkage. Good luck.
Doug

The proportinoing valve i pulled today has a total of three outlets, one to the rear and one to the front. My 69 4x4 brake lines only have one line going to the front pumpkin where it is split to front wheel from there. To use the proper proportioning valve do I run the two front outlet lines of the proportioning valve to a T-Fitting, then run it to the front axle where it is split back out to both sides? Or do you run two full lines from the two front outlets of the proportioning to each wheel with out messing with a T Fitting?

I am having a hard time wording this question, hopefully it makes sense. thanks for your help

[Doug Comer]

I'm gonna say you need one line from the prop valve to the back. And (I could be wrong on this) one from the prop valve to each side of the front axle. Been a while since I did mine and its dark and cold outside

Doug

[greentruck]

Doug, thanks for the info. I am still rebuilding the front axle so I got a little time to figure out how I want to plum the front brakes. Everything on the project is going smooth so far, actually a little to smooth for a rookie like me. It has just been slow because of having to work weekends. thanks for the answers as I am sure I will have more questions, paul.

[Doug Comer]

[greentruck]

Went to pull the carrier today to replace the inner axle seals and found a broken tooth on the ring gear....if it aint one thing its another. Need to order new gears, because i am not going to do all this work and put it back together with a broken tooth. This is more than I signed up for, but it has been a huge learning experience.

[basketcase0302]

Dialing in a ring & pinion takes some skill, (mostly expierence) and a few specialty tools to do it right. If not done right it can grenade, not trying to scare you away from it...
Backlash on a ring and pinion is pretty critical. You can learn how to set it right but do your homework.
My

[greentruck]

Thanks for the head up, I am tracking. I am in southern az and there are a lot of rest/ hot rod shops that are under worked with the current economy. I have a mechanic who has done some work for me in the past that I was very pleased with. I am going to call him on Monday, get a quote, and see if he will let me 'help' aka watch as he sets the gears. Got to learn sometime but your right this one is probably not in the self- teachin category

[Cortizzle88]

I'm really glad i found your post. I too have a 1969 f100 4x4 and it's actually got 6 inches of suspension lift. I am trying to do an axle swap because i want disc brakes and i find a swap to be the easiest way, i also have a bad seal on one side that leaks quite a bit so i can replace that. one thing i did want to ask you though. i need to do some work on my driveshaft as it's a little stretched because of the lift. did you confirm that the u-joints are at the same distance? and last question, i was also planning on replacing the tie rod and drag link with dom tubing and heim joints, are the knuckles on the two axles at different lengths? i assume so but thought i'd check. thanks!