Replacing u-joints

Clutch, transmission, rear axle

Moderators: FORDification, 70_F100

User avatar
Bob
Preferred User
Preferred User
Posts: 275
Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 2:47 pm
Location: WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA

Re: Replacing u-joints

Post by Bob »

:yt:

There's False brinelling... cause by vibration. Even long term ambient noise (approx. 70db) can eventually cause this if left sitting in same position for long time.
And True brinelling... from rolls or balls being slammed or pressed into the race. Usually caused by hammer install or pressing off the wrong race at install and transferring the pressure through the rollers or balls into the softer race.
Whateverman
Blue Oval Guru
Blue Oval Guru
Posts: 1257
Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 6:45 pm
Location: Comox Valley B.C. Canada

Re: Replacing u-joints

Post by Whateverman »

:2cents:

i'm with the beat on it with a hammer crowd - you never seem have a vise handy when you're 20 miles down a logging road.....and the one time i did try using a vise -well, it just didn't work for me....

i block the shaft up on a coulpa chunks of 2x4 -supporting as much of the yoke as possible ,remove the retaining clips then use a ballpeen hammer and a suitably sized socket to drift the u-joint over enough to pull the caps off
.....if you're a somewhat clumsy individual like myself you'll end up dropping the new caps and will have to first find and then reinstall the needle bearings (after picking out the dirt ,pine needles and other crap thats gotten stuck in the grease)into the caps at least once during the operation..
- still got my first first car 20+yrs later : 69 f100 sorta kinda pretending its a Mercury M100 w/a 70 f350 sport custom cab (factory buckets) 67 grille with 69 ranger cooneyes 68 merc box and hood,some supercool fiberglass fenders i scored way back when, 76 f150 disc brake frontend..currently running a 90 5.0HO 4bbl/c4 auto & 3.50 posi...originally a 360/c6 f100 Ranger with dealer added towpack (incl. kelsey hays trailer brake),boxside toolbox,behind the seat stowage & belly tank...only original parts left on 'er are the frame,rear end,rear springs,and rear bumper...
Madman
100% FORDified!
100% FORDified!
Posts: 1671
Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2011 9:39 am
Location: Windsor, CO
Contact:

Re: Replacing u-joints

Post by Madman »

Whateverman wrote::2cents:

i'm with the beat on it with a hammer crowd - you never seem have a vise handy when you're 20 miles down a logging road.....and the one time i did try using a vise -well, it just didn't work for me....

i block the shaft up on a coulpa chunks of 2x4 -supporting as much of the yoke as possible ,remove the retaining clips then use a ballpeen hammer and a suitably sized socket to drift the u-joint over enough to pull the caps off
.....if you're a somewhat clumsy individual like myself you'll end up dropping the new caps and will have to first find and then reinstall the needle bearings (after picking out the dirt ,pine needles and other crap thats gotten stuck in the grease)into the caps at least once during the operation..
If you have a clean surface for the u-joint cap, sometimes you can use a big C-clamp to drive the caps down. That is a little easier to carry in the field than a vice.
""Never shoot a large caliber man with a small caliber bullet."

2017 Ford Raptor
1970 F250 4x4
1948 Willys CJ2A w/ Ford Flathead V-8
1975 Ford Bronco
User avatar
harrysnyder
New Member
New Member
Posts: 118
Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2011 12:20 am
Location: Spartanburg, SC

Re: Replacing u-joints

Post by harrysnyder »

I don't like the idea of advising a novice to block up the driveshaft or jack up on the driveshaft. I retube more driveshafts because of people trying to put in their own u-joints than anything else. I don't like the vice or c-clamp idea either. If you don't get the cap square in the bore, you end up pressing it in crooked and cutting material out of the cap bore.

I install all my u-joints for free.

I'd also put that other driveline shop out of business, $70 for that is crazy.

I put in every u-joint with a hammer. I've been building drivelines for over 9 years. I think that speaks for itself.

Spicer also sells snap rings in different thicknesses to compensate for weld yoke ears that are bent inward/outward.

Go to a driveline shop.
I build driveshafts.
www.carolinadriveline.com

71 F100, 302, C4, 8.8, crown vic swap
68 F250, 360, NP435, Dana 24, Dana 60's f&r
BumpyJohnson
New Member
New Member
Posts: 11
Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2012 5:59 pm

Re: Replacing u-joints

Post by BumpyJohnson »

harrysnyder wrote:I don't like the idea of advising a novice to block up the driveshaft or jack up on the driveshaft. I retube more driveshafts because of people trying to put in their own u-joints than anything else. I don't like the vice or c-clamp idea either. If you don't get the cap square in the bore, you end up pressing it in crooked and cutting material out of the cap bore.

I install all my u-joints for free.

I'd also put that other driveline shop out of business, $70 for that is crazy.

I put in every u-joint with a hammer. I've been building drivelines for over 9 years. I think that speaks for itself.

Spicer also sells snap rings in different thicknesses to compensate for weld yoke ears that are bent inward/outward.

Go to a driveline shop.
So $70 would be too much? How much should I expect to pay for a two-piece driveshaft? I already have the joints, but not the carrier bearing.
'72 F100 302/T18 with the rare rust option package
Image
User avatar
PhantomoftheBumpside
Preferred User
Preferred User
Posts: 332
Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 9:59 pm
Location: Seattle, WA

Re: Replacing u-joints

Post by PhantomoftheBumpside »

I mentioned jacking the dl after BumpyJ made it known about his lack of tools and workspace. This would be the best method for someone with such a lack. I also made it clear to be careful, since BumpyJ is apparently new to wrenching. Everyone learns from doing. Everyone also has gaps in their education. Just because someone studies one subject in minutia doesn't mean they know all of even their given subject. Some people have big blinders. In any case getting your hands dirty and doing it is the best way to learn something, supplement that with study on the subject and asking questions and anyone can do well.

Bumpy $70 for changing out your joints and carrier does not sound unreasonable, but this mainly depends on the market in your area.
-- ROB --

The collective money pit details...
-On The Road-
1990 * 1FTEE14YZLHA83xxx ..- 138 E142 __ E 18 __ 3P
-Projects-

-Spares-

-Recently Departed-
1997 - 4M2DU55P9VUJ46xxx...- 112 4 22 _ _ 8 D4 U 1F
1997 - Dodge Caravan
1987 - Toyota Tercel Wagon FWD
1978 - Winnebago Brave (Dodge D800FC)
1970 - F10YRJ80xxx ..............- 131 3 F100 D _4 G 02
1968 - F25YRC99xxx .............- 131 E F253 B 81 G C8
1968 - F25YRD69xxx .............- 131 C F254 E 81 A 24
User avatar
harrysnyder
New Member
New Member
Posts: 118
Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2011 12:20 am
Location: Spartanburg, SC

Re: Replacing u-joints

Post by harrysnyder »

BumpyJohnson wrote: So $70 would be too much? How much should I expect to pay for a two-piece driveshaft? I already have the joints, but not the carrier bearing.

$36 for carrier bearing installed and $6 per joint labor

And the $70 for 2 joints and a balance isn't bad, I read that wrong earlier. I thought you said they charged $70 for a one piece w/ joints and disassembly/cleaning. I didn't calculate a balance into the equation. :doh:
I build driveshafts.
www.carolinadriveline.com

71 F100, 302, C4, 8.8, crown vic swap
68 F250, 360, NP435, Dana 24, Dana 60's f&r
Whateverman
Blue Oval Guru
Blue Oval Guru
Posts: 1257
Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 6:45 pm
Location: Comox Valley B.C. Canada

Re: Replacing u-joints

Post by Whateverman »

Madman wrote:If you have a clean surface for the u-joint cap, sometimes you can use a big C-clamp to drive the caps down. That is a little easier to carry in the field than a vice.
tried that before too- then ended up using the hammer cuz it was taking too long
- still got my first first car 20+yrs later : 69 f100 sorta kinda pretending its a Mercury M100 w/a 70 f350 sport custom cab (factory buckets) 67 grille with 69 ranger cooneyes 68 merc box and hood,some supercool fiberglass fenders i scored way back when, 76 f150 disc brake frontend..currently running a 90 5.0HO 4bbl/c4 auto & 3.50 posi...originally a 360/c6 f100 Ranger with dealer added towpack (incl. kelsey hays trailer brake),boxside toolbox,behind the seat stowage & belly tank...only original parts left on 'er are the frame,rear end,rear springs,and rear bumper...
BumpyJohnson
New Member
New Member
Posts: 11
Joined: Mon Jan 09, 2012 5:59 pm

Re: Replacing u-joints

Post by BumpyJohnson »

I've always done my own repairs, but I've never had to replace driveline parts before. Sounds like I'd be better off farming this one out.'
'72 F100 302/T18 with the rare rust option package
Image
Post Reply