conversion from auto transmission to manual

Clutch, transmission, rear axle

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72BahamaBlue
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Re: conversion from auto transmission to manual

Post by 72BahamaBlue »

Being a lanky 6'1', I find my knee way too close to the steering wheel with foot on the clutch! Also here in very-busy-traffic-Seattle, the auto is so much easier to live with...just something to consider! Also be sure the motor and trans mounts are in good shape if going with a manual. I've popped the z-bar off the engine with, uh, less than smooth shifting... :doh:
homesteader
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Re: conversion from auto transmission to manual

Post by homesteader »

I hear everyone's thoughts on having an automatic as a daily driver and I am taking it to heart. If I choose to reduce my final drive to say a 3.50 what amount of improvement in mpg can I anticipate. Further, what will I give up in my ability to tow my #3000 trailer up the steep mountains of the Adirondacks? Also, how far can I reduce the final drive. For example can I go to a 292? Thanks
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forrestbump
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Re: conversion from auto transmission to manual

Post by forrestbump »

The reality is you can't expect an FE powered Bump to 'see' mileage much better than 15 or 16 MPG. Too heavy, no aerodynamics...you're going to be fighting an unwinnable battle if you're looking for better mileage.

My Bump, with 3.73 gears (see my signature for details) is lucky to see 10 to 12 MPG. With my gearing, I can haul weight, it's gotta a reasonable amount of bottom end pulling power plus the motor is spinning at reasonably low RPM's on the highway. A pretty good compromise in my opinion.

If you switch to 2.92 gears, your truck won't be able to get out of it's own way, you'll have to buzz your motor up to get it moving...especially with a load and your motor won't be in it's sweet spot on the highway when you need pass somebody. In other words, you'll hate it.

My advice, switch to 3.50's and call it good...it's the best compromise available to you without spending an arm and a leg.
1970, 2WD, F-250, C/S, Dual Tanks, 390 FE (of course), C6, Power Steering, Power Disc Brakes, Dana 60 3.73, Sky View Blue, Ranger XLT

1970, 2WD, F-250, C/S, A/C, Dual Tanks, 390 FE (again, of course), C6, Power Steering, Power Disc Brakes, Dana 60 3.73, Wimbledon White & Sky View Blue, Ranger (almost twin brothers!)

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homesteader
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Re: conversion from auto transmission to manual

Post by homesteader »

My last post disappeared into space, I'll try again. I hear thoughts on keeping an automatic transmission for an everyday driver and I am taking then to heart.

If I change my final drive from my 4.11 to a 3.50 how much improvement will I see in mpg and how will it affect my ability to tow my #3000 trailer up the steep Adirondack mountains? Further, what about a smaller ratio such as with a 292? What is the smallest and what will fit my truck? Thanks
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Tpdaniels
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Re: conversion from auto transmission to manual

Post by Tpdaniels »

homesteader wrote:
If I change my final drive from my 4.11 to a 3.50 how much improvement will I see in mpg and how will it affect my ability to tow my #3000 trailer up the steep Adirondack mountains? Further, what about a smaller ratio such as with a 292? What is the smallest and what will fit my truck? Thanks
You asked about gear ratio, The lowest ratio for a dana 60 is 3.31

If you switch to a 3.54, I can't tell you for sure if you can tow Your 3000 Lb trailer up the steep Adirondack mountains, But I would almost bet you would not have any problems if your engine and transmission are in good shape.

I can tell you what it will do to your RPM's If you switch from 4.10 to 3.54 for daily driving, here is the difference in RPM's at 60 MPH using 30" tall tires.

C6 Auto, 3.54 at 60 MPH = 2443 RPM
C6 Auto, 4.10 at 60 MPH = 2829 RPM

Switching to 3.54 reduces you RPM's by 386 at 60 MPH.

Website to calculate at any speed yourself with your exact numbers,

http://www.ringpinion.com/Calculators/C ... TireHeight

I would leave it an Automatic and switch the gearing, much cheaper first step and it may solve your problems.
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