The chronicles of Lou, '70 F350 dually Cummins project

[Ranchero50]

Yes, I know the feeling of dispair rust induces... I'm cleaning out my shed to go get some fire wood today. The rear end sucked up all my vacation money so I'll proboably work at least 6 days next week to rebuild the funds for the next week off, but 72hr work weeks suck...

I did dig out the fuel lines and other misc. crap from the shed and am loading the ranchero with metal scrap to cash in.

Jamie

[Ranchero50]

Ok, spent most of the day cleaning up the mess before the 4-8" of snow we are guestimated to get tomorrow. While on the scrap metal trip to the famr I spotted another 10.2 with a 4L10 tag so I'm trying to get that one up to the house to swap out the posi unit. I'm hoping it's ok because the yoke and brake drums were missing and the pumkin had some water in with the oil...

Jamie

[averagef250]

The sterling LS diffs aren't much to talk about. Had several trucks with LS sterlings. Never knew they had them in by driving.

Did a Cummins/ ZF6 swap in a 93 F-350 4x4 crew for a guy. He brought the truck back to the shop a year later for some work including gears and lockers (truck would get stuck in a mud puddle I guess). Put tru-tracs front and rear for him and he didn't know what to do with himself he was so happy. It had a good shape stock LS in the rear, he was shocked!

The Sterling tru-tracs aren't that spendy, like 450? Some coin, but for the hassle of setting up a sterling diff not sure switching a stock LS in is worth it.

[Ranchero50]

I figure it can't hurt horribly if the price is right (free) and I can figure out how it works.

What's the chance of putting a set of 4.10's in the place of 5.13's on a '89 F450 without too much drama? For my buddies Tow truck with the Cummins / ZF5 setup.

Jamie

[averagef250]

Sterlings don't use carrier breaks so no difference from any other ratio.

Sterlings use thick outer carrier shims. Just harder to work with and much more expensive for shim kits.

[Ranchero50]

Interesting, I read on a couple of the parts sites that 4.10 was the break point and Dana has a narrow 3.73 ring gear for 4.10 carriers. We are getting hammered with snow right now, expecting 6-10" by nightfall so I'm trying to figure out the '02 Explorer's piss poor heater. Trying to figure out an honest way to troubleshoot the broken flap door without takingi t completely apart. I always get heat out the back of the console and the fan is very loud for the little amount of warm air thatcomes out. Just finished putting antifreeze in the Mustang, saw farmer scrambling to get the corn in before the snow knocks it over...

Winter sucks
Jamie

[basketcase0302]

Hope you got that heater going Jamie, it was in the 30's here last night and for a few more nights. Most the newer Expeditions had similar issues with the A/C and heat caused by a "blend door actuator" or motor some call it. I'd wire up a coat hanger to it if I had to for some heat!
I spent the day caulking to keep old man winter out a little better.
Yes, winter does suck...

[Ranchero50]

Kind of an odd day, spent most of taking the brakes and steering back out of the blue cab, then running to the farm to rob that cab. I'm working on getting the steering in and cab bolted to the frame. I have to do something creative on the rear since the '70 cab mounts were located differently than the '71 cab I have on there now. Bit of a PITA.

Goal is keep plugging away at it and try to get it running for by my birthday on Tuesday the 8th.

Jamie

[averagef250]

Interesting, I read on a couple of the parts sites that 4.10 was the break point and Dana has a narrow 3.73 ring gear for 4.10 carriers.

Carrier breaks are a cost cutting Dana thing. Sterling and Ford use the same carriers for all ratios.

[Ranchero50]

Update time, a pic of the carrier bearing frame mount in the mill getting narrowed for the Dodge carrier bearing to mount to it. I just band sawed the sides and hit if with a flap wheel. Not purty but it worked well enough.


New rear brake line from a '79 F250 had the same size tubes on both sides.


Manual steering column bracket getting slotted for correct fit with the cab lift and power steering. The PS bracket is smaller / shorter.


Fit test after a coat of flat black (I rubbed it with a rag to give it a slight semigloss look). Notice the notch I had to give it for the shifter lever.


Finally I drilled new column mounts since I had to slide the column closer to the steering box. Wheel position is pretty nice but I have to figure something out about the vanity cover.


Jamie

[sargentrs]

Great work! I bet that mill comes in real handy in these mods. Keep up the good work!

[Ranchero50]

Moving on, I made some 1/4" thick 1.5" washers for the cab bolts to go through for more support. I used lock nuts and grade 5 bolts to hold it together.


The '71 cab needed the rear holes redrilled outboard of the frame rails for the '70 F350. I made some spacers and more washers. The bolt is 8" long for use with the 1.5" spacer


The other side...


Finally we put the cab tank in. I had previously modified it for the return line. In 71 Ford used a 3/8" feed line and the earlier tanks used 5/16" so I welded another 5/16 fitting on top of the tank for a return line and I think I put a stub shaft so I won't hear it peeing returned fuel all the time.


More tomorrow. I'm currently fighting with the power brake booster. I got the one out of the '70 and derusted it today with electrolosys but am having trouble finding a good sealing tube for the cab side. The '71 one is too small. I also installed the auto brackets out of the '70 cab, painted the drivers side vent assy and the inner fender mount. Sometime I'm going to cut the double DIN dash out and reinstall a stocker too. I have a mess of wiring from the F350 to sort out too.

Jamie

[resurrected]

WoW, this is turning out nicely can't wait to see it all back together and finished. Good job. My compliments for your ingenuity and the custom fab work

[Ranchero50]

Thanks, slow going this morning. I managed to get the brakes bolted back together. Once the master cylinder was on the booster it self bled out the rear bleeder screws that were loose while I was out taking the wifes pocket book to the grocery store so she could pay the lady...

I also hooked up the E brake cable and put the vent in. Now I get to take it back apart so I can paint the steering column. I wish I had an assembly sequence for this job, seems I'm always out of sync.

Jamie

[Ranchero50]

Dang walk over to the truck and the master cylinder is leaking out the brake booster... Took the column apart, waiting on the primer to dry before finding out how much paint is still in the old cans.

Jamie