????c-4 shift lever length ????

Whateverman · Post by **Whateverman** » Tue Oct 25, 2011 7:16 pm

this is on my things to do list :
because my trans is out of a cable shifted mustang the shift arm is too short and this throws everything else out of whack,because of this both the shifter detents on the column and the gear indicator are pretty much useless makes it all kinds of fun trying to: (a) find the correct gear ,and/or (b) keep it in the correct gear (slips down into second all the time)

i'm planning on extending the shift lever at the trans (welding an extension on to it), rather than digging into the trans again when i get a spare moment

does anybody know the "proper" length for the shift lever on a c-4 in one of these old suckers????

Whateverman · Post by **Whateverman** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 6:30 pm

nobody?

Whateverman · Post by **Whateverman** » Sat Oct 29, 2011 6:31 pm

hello?
anybody?
c'mon one of you has got to have a c4 sitting around that you could take a boo at

basketcase0302 · Post by **basketcase0302** » Sun Oct 30, 2011 5:12 am

I had C-4's until last year when I moved, sorry I can't help you.
Maybe someone else can chime in here soon.

Whateverman · Post by **Whateverman** » Mon Oct 31, 2011 2:39 pm

yeah,that'd be nice ,i dumped off a couple of em when i moved 2 yrs ago too....and of course they had the right shift arm on em...

i noticed that my trans is still leaking despite redoing the seals and dipstick o-rings -really tempted to throw the t-5 i have kickin around (and was originally gonna install) in instead ....but i kinda like not having to row thru the gears all the time....

Whateverman · Post by **Whateverman** » Thu Nov 03, 2011 6:36 pm

someone out there has to have one laying around

BobbyFord · Post by **BobbyFord** » Thu Nov 03, 2011 6:58 pm

IMO, it would be easier to get the correct selector shaft, pull the pan and swap them out. That way everything is factory and works like it should

70 ranger · Post by **70 ranger** » Thu Nov 03, 2011 7:13 pm

I modified my shifter arm on my column to adapt to a cable. Lots of work and I still don't have it quite right. (drives me nuts) Then it hit me. If you make the arm adjustable so that it can be threaded in and out to make it shorter or longer you can fine tune it so that it will line up with the marks on the column. I hope this makes sense!

Whateverman · Post by **Whateverman** » Thu Nov 03, 2011 7:21 pm

yeah Bobbyford.....it seems like a good idea at first ,but i've already had the pan off 3 times and i'm tired of bathing in ATF -and listening to the old lady freak because i'm "making a mess" - ...and since most of my truck has been cobbled together in one way or another - for instance : the shift rod itself had to be fabbed up because the original one took a walk when i went out of town for a week ("i cleaned up the garage for you") .... and my welder ego (the little red guy on my left shoulder) sez that i should do it

! so right or wrong i'm going to do it all backwoodsy like

BobbyFord · Post by **BobbyFord** » Thu Nov 03, 2011 7:22 pm

Whateverman wrote:yeah .....it seems like a good idea at first ,but i've already had the pan off 3 times and i'm tired of bathing in ATF -and listening to the old lady freak because i'm "making a mess" - ...and since most of my truck has been cobbled together in one way or another - for instance : the shift rod itself had to be fabbed up because the original one took a walk when i went out of town for a week ("i cleaned up the garage for you") .... and my welder ego (the little red guy on my left shoulder) sez that i should do it ! so right or wrong i'm going to do it all backwoodsy like

Makes sense now

basketcase0302 · Post by **basketcase0302** » Fri Nov 04, 2011 4:30 am

If you make the arm adjustable so that it can be threaded in and out to make it shorter or longer you can fine tune it so that it will line up with the marks on the column

I did this to my EB once I put the body lift on it. I took the existing linkeage and had it cut and threaded, (hardened steel if memory serves me correct) then used a threaded coupling to reconnect the two pieces. And use an additional nut on each end to lock your "tuning" into place so they don't back out.

Whateverman · Post by **Whateverman** » Fri Nov 11, 2011 9:11 pm

hmm....
don't know if that'd work on the shift arm on the trans but....

Canadian Ford Eh · Post by **Canadian Ford Eh** » Sat Nov 12, 2011 1:13 pm

I'm almost finished doing what you are talking about --making the shifting arm on the trans longer. Only about 3/4" or so makes everything back to normal, only I needed to make my own linkage too because my c4 is from a 78 t-bird, so it can't be a straight rod. I had the same problem you had (column detents didnt line up with gears).

Once I actually finish it (right now things are just bolted together) I will give you the dimensions and some pics if that may help.

Whateverman · Post by **Whateverman** » Sat Nov 12, 2011 2:08 pm

thanx! eh?

! yeah,my linkage had to kick over about 4 1/2 " to clear the headers and exhaust pics etc are always good to have !

Donnie · Post by **Donnie** » Sat Nov 12, 2011 6:47 pm

Whateverman wrote:yeah,that'd be nice ,i dumped off a couple of em when i moved 2 yrs ago too....and of course they had the right shift arm on em...

i noticed that my trans is still leaking despite redoing the seals and dipstick o-rings -really tempted to throw the t-5 i have kickin around (and was originally gonna install) in instead ....but i kinda like not having to row thru the gears all the time....

WHere is it leaking? Front, rear, shift linkage seal, kickdown lever seal, or pan gasket?
They can all be fixed in the car, except for the front seal...Donnie

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