Help identifying Dana 60 donor vehicles

Clutch, transmission, rear axle

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Brady
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Help identifying Dana 60 donor vehicles

Post by Brady »

I am looking for a full float Dana 60 that has approximately the wheel mounting surface (WMS) to WMS width as the front Dana 44 in my 72 F100. I'm planning on swapping out the 9" axle for the Dana 60 because the little Cummins diesel that I put in the pickup is burning up axle bearings and U-joints. So the plan is to upgrade all the U-joints to 1350's by replacing the yokes, and on the Dana 60, either drill the hubs for 5 on 5.5 or simply replace the hubs with ones that are specific to 5 on 5.5. Yes, there are Dana 60's out there that are semifloaters and have the 5 on 5.5 lug pattern; I just don't want a semi-floater anymore.

Do any of you have suggestions on donor vehicles with similar track widths to the front of my pickup?


Thanks!
whatever
Brady
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Re: Help identifying Dana 60 donor vehicles

Post by Brady »

bump!

I really could use the help on this info.

Thanks
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averagef250
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Re: Help identifying Dana 60 donor vehicles

Post by averagef250 »

fullsize truck rear axles are pretty much all the same width from 1973 and newer. pickup dually axles are too wide.

what kind of power are you putting through this axle to wear and break things?

Dana 60 and big bearing 9 inch use the same carrier bearings. Not much to gain going to a 60 if you burn up 9 inches.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
Brady
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Re: Help identifying Dana 60 donor vehicles

Post by Brady »

averagef250 wrote:fullsize truck rear axles are pretty much all the same width from 1973 and newer. pickup dually axles are too wide.

what kind of power are you putting through this axle to wear and break things?

Dana 60 and big bearing 9 inch use the same carrier bearings. Not much to gain going to a 60 if you burn up 9 inches.
The problem appears to be coming from the axle shaft bearings, had to replace both sides in less than 2 months. The other problem are the smallish 1310 u-joints, primarily at the pinion yoke, replacing those at about 1 every 2 to 3 weeks. I don't believe it's the "power", I think it has more to do with the higher low rpm torque that the engine is putting out and the larger tire diameter. I went from the stock 235/75R15s to 265/75R16s in order to drop the highway rpms, but this increases the abuses that driveline parts take at lower rpms.
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