DANA 60 pinion Seal leaking

[max_alberta]

I know this subject has been addressed before, but I have a couple of specific questions regarding replacing the pinion seal on my 1969 Ford F-250's Dana 60. I am hoping someone who has done this before will comment on my plan and let me know if my shortcuts are a bad idea.

Here is my plan.

1. Apply emergency brake and block rear wheels

2. Remove driveshaft end.

3. Loosen pinion nut using breaker bar with extension. *using vehicle weight, brakes, and blocked rear wheels* to prevent pinion from rotating.

4. Replace seal

5. Retorque pinion nut to 250 - 280 ft - lbs *again using vehicle weight, brakes, and blocked rear wheels* to prevent pinion from rotating.

6. Fill differential

From what I understand, this year of Dana does not have a crush sleeve, so I can leave that alone.

Comments? What I am looking for, is a quick and dirty repair to get me back on the road, while I decide what to do with the truck. Obviously with a leaky seal (it drains right out), driving it is impossible.

[robroy]

Good day Max,

I've had the pleasure to replacing this seal on my truck, and remember a couple of things that I found surprising.

First, I discovered that it takes a mighty slim socket to fit inside of the yoke and slide over the nut. I actually had to order one. I ordered a "premium" 1 and 5/16" socket from McMaster-Carr, and it turned out to be a Proto when it showed up (they don't let you see the brand before ordering).

Luckily this Proto socket was sure thin! Here's how it looks:



The next thing I discovered is that due to the effect of the gearing, putting a breaker bar on that nut and heaving on it rolled the truck--no matter what I did to try to prevent it. The combination of the breaker-bar leverage and the gears added up to plenty of torque to roll the wheels.

I wound up having to use an air-powered impact wrench to deal with that nut. And in terms of putting the nut back on and torquing it, it means that I had to guess on the torque--I couldn't measure it using a torque wrench.

You might do OK with a regular socket, breaker bar and torque wrench, but I figured I'd mention the troubles I had with those things.

Robroy

[robroy]

One more note: when I pulled the seal on my truck the differential oil didn't drain out, so I didn't need to refill it on account of that.

[eggman918]

I ended up using a 24" pipe wrench on the yoke as a backup to tighten the nut.

[max_alberta]

Alright this is good info, thanks guys!

Now, NAPA lists part numbers for two seals, divided around 1971. My truck is a '69, but the engine is a '72, and the diff, well, who knows. I'll probably buy both and take back the one which doesn't match.

Lucky I do have a 3/4" drive torque wrench & breaker bar, but not a large pipe wrench.

I'm happy to know the oil didn't drain out when you pulled the seal, because when I topped the oil up in mine, most of what I put in leaked out within a day (leaving a nice black spot on the driveway), and I was worried I'd been running dangerously close to dry.

[Donnie]

When you look at your new seal, if you can see the garter spring, just add a coating of your favorite petroleum jelly to keep it in place..Some times a spring will jump out of place from the hammer shock..The exception's are : if the seal lip wraps the spring or you have the correct seal installer.........Donnie

[max_alberta]

When you look at your new seal, if you can see the garter spring, just add a coating of your favorite petroleum jelly to keep it in place..Some times a spring will jump out of place from the hammer shock..The exception's are : if the seal lip wraps the spring or you have the correct seal installer.........Donnie

This kind of info is exactly why I joined the forum, more knowledge is always good.. chilton's/haynes etc always leave me with a lot of questions.

Today it was raining so the truck got ignored. Also, want to borrow a big pipe wrench before I start this job.

[robroy]

Good evening Max,

You know, I had a false memory about how I tightened up the nut; I didn't use an impact wrench for that. I remember trying an impact wrench but there was too much play in my rear end for that to work, because the impact action just jiggled the gears around instead of tightening the nut.

Here's a photo of how I did it, just as recommended by Steve:



Robroy

[max_alberta]

Good evening Max,

You know, I had a false memory about how I tightened up the nut; I didn't use an impact wrench for that. I remember trying an impact wrench but there was too much play in my rear end for that to work, because the impact action just jiggled the gears around instead of tightening the nut.

Here's a photo of how I did it, just as recommended by Steve:

[ Image ]

Robroy

OK if I can't figure it out after this picture, then I pretty much don't deserve to be driving the truck Will post results once I get the new seal in, I'm happy I asked here.
On another topic, you California guys don't know how lucky you are - that undercarriage is pristine, and it looks like it will last another 40 years!

[Donnie]

Good day Max,

I've had the pleasure to replacing this seal on my truck, and remember a couple of things that I found surprising.

First, I discovered that it takes a mighty slim socket to fit inside of the yoke and slide over the nut. I actually had to order one. I ordered a "premium" 1 and 5/16" socket from McMaster-Carr, and it turned out to be a Proto when it showed up (they don't let you see the brand before ordering).

Luckily this Proto socket was sure thin! Here's how it looks:

[ Image ]

The next thing I discovered is that due to the effect of the gearing, putting a breaker bar on that nut and heaving on it rolled the truck--no matter what I did to try to prevent it. The combination of the breaker-bar leverage and the gears added up to plenty of torque to roll the wheels.

I wound up having to use an air-powered impact wrench to deal with that nut. And in terms of putting the nut back on and torquing it, it means that I had to guess on the torque--I couldn't measure it using a torque wrench.

You might do OK with a regular socket, breaker bar and torque wrench, but I figured I'd mention the troubles I had with those things.

Robroy

An off shore socket that would take 260# of torque would have to be at least 1/4 of an inch thick..............Donnie

[max_alberta]

Done.

My pipe wrench was too small to do the job properly. I drilled two holes in a piece of unistrut (used for electrical installations) bolted it to the yoke, and propped it up against the leaf spring just like the picture, in place of the pipe wrench.

I used a hole saw to cut a hole in a small length of 2x4 big enough to pass the pinion, put another board on top of it, and used it to tap in the seal.

Diff had more fluid in it than I thought, but it was really black and nasty.

The correct part for the seal was NAPA 18888, my differential is a 3.54, not what I expected.