What are your guys' thoughts on this. Thinking about Lincoln locking the from diff. It's the stock d44 low pinion closed knuckle turd. I plan to swap it out for a HP d44 eventually. I just can't stand open rear and open front. 4 wheel drive is SO much more capable with all tires spinning, i figure i can atleast lock the front for good. Only downsides i see are possibly breaking an axle (how likely? Not sure how strong d44 axles are), and not being about to keep the hubs engaged if i'm driving through snow. Although this is probably once every 5 years...
I've lincoln locked a dana 60 rear (was in the race truck) and it held up great but I know d60 axles are more beefy. The d44 while locked should never see pavement ever, but worried about being on some small/mild rocks and breaking an axle.
welding front diff
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- 1971ford
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welding front diff
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Re: welding front diff
i have read the 44 arent all that tough of a axle. so any mods to them might be bad to do. when it comes time to repair the axle. if it breaks down.
- averagef250
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Re: welding front diff
I don't think it's a great idea for a street driven truck, but with your plans for replacing it anyway it would be good for you to do it so atleast you know what it's like and how it changes things. If it works fine for you then keep it that way when you put the new axle in.
I'm a fan of welding/spooling the front for offroad use, but it doesn't work exactly like you're probably thinking it will. With a spool in the front it kills your turning radius/increases steering effort immensely. It also makes it 100 times more likely to pop the shortside axle/hub when both sides are locked in. In my own play rigs I weld the fronts and leave the shortside unlocked until it's really needed.
The downside to the welded front is even with just one side locked in the front axle still doesn't work like an open diff front so you won't have the control you had before for driving in snow, ice, turning on gravel and other low traction situations that you'd normally just lock the hubs in and be done.
For a street driven 4x4 a limited slip in the rear and open front axle work pretty good. Many guys like a crappy trac-lok limited slip in the front axle because it gives "just enough" to help the front axle, but doesn't break anything. I've never done this personally, I like an open front diff for what I use my street driven 4x4's for. For driving control in snow and ice the open front is nice.
I'm a fan of welding/spooling the front for offroad use, but it doesn't work exactly like you're probably thinking it will. With a spool in the front it kills your turning radius/increases steering effort immensely. It also makes it 100 times more likely to pop the shortside axle/hub when both sides are locked in. In my own play rigs I weld the fronts and leave the shortside unlocked until it's really needed.
The downside to the welded front is even with just one side locked in the front axle still doesn't work like an open diff front so you won't have the control you had before for driving in snow, ice, turning on gravel and other low traction situations that you'd normally just lock the hubs in and be done.
For a street driven 4x4 a limited slip in the rear and open front axle work pretty good. Many guys like a crappy trac-lok limited slip in the front axle because it gives "just enough" to help the front axle, but doesn't break anything. I've never done this personally, I like an open front diff for what I use my street driven 4x4's for. For driving control in snow and ice the open front is nice.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
- harrysnyder
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Re: welding front diff
I've welded a few D44 fronts for my buddies. As far as dependability, it all depends on how you wheel. My buddies 79 Bronco on 36" TSL's would really get it, but if you bind that front end up on some rocks and really stress it-you'll pop an axle/joint before long. I'd do it all again, just don't do anything thats obviously hard on a front end, like turning the wheels all the way one direction, with a tire against a rock or a really bad rut, and trying to beast your way up outta there. D44's with stock shafts/heavy rubber, do not live up to that abuse.
I build driveshafts.
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71 F100, 302, C4, 8.8, crown vic swap
68 F250, 360, NP435, Dana 24, Dana 60's f&r
www.carolinadriveline.com
71 F100, 302, C4, 8.8, crown vic swap
68 F250, 360, NP435, Dana 24, Dana 60's f&r
- BRUTUS_T_HOG
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Re: welding front diff
my f250 is hard enough to turn as it is. i would lock the rear and leave the front open or put in a detroit truetrac.
i plan truetrac front and rear in mine
i plan truetrac front and rear in mine
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- woods
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Re: welding front diff
I have an ARB air locker in the front of my truck. It's fine as long as I am going in a straight line. With in engaged, I have broken more than one stub shaft by just turning on a grippy surface. If it was welded, I would find it a huge pain. It really tries to wad stuff up.
- zakt
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Re: welding front diff
Im going ARB in the front and rear, I like the open diff in snow and ice
1972 Ford F350 crewcab