76 F100 Rear Axle

[WiggsGA]

While replacing rear brake shoes I discover oil/lube inside one of the the drums Initially I though it was a leaking wheel cylinder. Upon inspection it appears the leak is coming from the rear axel. I pulled the axle and noticed two seals. One is a metal seal that is straight forward to replace. The other is in the housing and apears to be pressed in. Before I try to replace it I was hoping to get directions on how to remove the old one and and install a new one.


Axle Identificatin tag
WDM-BF2 6AC
3.00 9 334A

1976 F100 Ranger Short Wheel base

[fordman]

if i remember right you have to press the bearing off of the axle to get to the outer seal.

[WiggsGA]

I have done some additional research in my 1976 Truck Shop manual and on-line and have determined the following. The bearing assembly is held onto the shaft with a retaining ring that must be removed before the bearing on the shaft can be pulled off. There is a rear bearing oil seal inside the axle housing that is removed using Tool-1175-AB and a slide hammer. This is the oil seal that I originally though was leaking. Even if this is not the culprit I’m still going to replace it once I determine the correct part. The axle that I pulled (Driver's side) is not a constant diameter. That is it tapers down to a smaller diameter on the spline end. It appears that the bearing assembly has a seal that sets in the axle retainer plate. The outer race or seal of the bearing has a slight positive to zero clearance with the axle housing. I believe I read on-line that RTV could be used to seal this area. Does that make sense?

I have found several bearing kits on-line that have the bearing, retainer ring and oil seal. However, they are referred to as “Wheel Bearing, Small With Seal” and “Wheel Bearing, Large With Seal”. Can anyone tell me how I determine whether I need the Large or the Small?

Can anyone tell me if I’m on the right track?

Thanks

[BigBlueF250]

From what I remember from my parts selling days...........F100's use a seal in the housing with a sealed ball bearing....F150's use a bearing that is lubed by gear oil and has a seal outboard of the bearing. The 150 style has to have the bearing replaced at the same time as the seal. Pull the seal out of the housing and take it to your local parts store and they can match it up by the number on it.

[67mann]

http://www.kevinstang.com/4ncp.jpg

[Racer Z]

For the RTV to work, you need to clean it up perfect.

I would take the time to replace the seals and I would do both sides.

[basketcase0302]

I don't know if the 76' truck axle would be the same as the early Bronco axle but...I'd found years ago with my 76 EB axle that there was a "big bearing" and a "small bearing" 9" Ford axle. It is a 9" isn't it? And the outer bearings you're describing were just that. One has a larger diameter bearing than the other, (had to do with GVW)? And the axle shaft you describe...way back then, you had the option of ordering replacement aftermarket axle shaft that were not tapered down in the center like the factory ones you've described. Maybe hawk or Dustin or someone else can chime in here on that?

I do know that I'd never bought that tool to replace the seals in my EB 9" either, (which I would constantly have to replace due to tire size and abuse).
It's much easier to pull the chunk/pumkin/third member from a Ford 9", and the axle seals are staring you right in the face, and be pulled with a screwdriver then.

edit: You can use a right angle grinder to remove the bearing retainer, (which has to be pressed back on).
Not a torch like I'd seen some idiots do to my axle shaft years ago, cutting into the shaft!
The bearing should have to be pressed off, (I've seen them so wore they would slide off once the retainer was out of the way) and pressed back on I believe?

[WiggsGA]

67mann, Thanks for the link to the photo. I definatly have the small bearing.

I found a SLide Hammer tool set I can "Borrow" from Advanced Auto that has a bearing puller attachment I believe will work to get the oil seal out of the axel. If it is not the right size I can use the hook adapter and get it out.

I hope to get time the week after next to "borrow" the tool and replace the seal.

[WiggsGA]

Racer Z, thanks for the advise. I would not rely soley on the RTV and I'm definatly going to replace the seals. Once I figure out what I'm doing on the driver's side, I will work on the passenger side.

[WiggsGA]

Basketcase0302, Thanks for the information. I'm going to have to take the axel to the local garage and pay them to pull the old bearing and push the new one on. I'll make sure they do not use heat in the process. Once I get time to continue working on it I will take pictures an post to document the process. Maybe it will help someone else in the future.

[DANZIG]

i have the same problem only two days ago about two blocks from my house the whole right axle came out at about 40 mph. a buddy and i found that the bearing had fallen totally apart. gonna finish the repair up today i'll send pics and yeah that's a brand new keg of beer in the truck.

[BobbyFord]

i have the same problem only two days ago about two blocks from my house the whole right axle came out at about 40 mph. a buddy and i found that the bearing had fallen totally apart. gonna finish the repair up today i'll send pics and yeah that's a brand new keg of beer in the truck.

That bearing had to be howling like a pack of wolves for quite a while

[Racer Z]

i have the same problem only two days ago about two blocks from my house the whole right axle came out at about 40 mph. a buddy and i found that the bearing had fallen totally apart. gonna finish the repair up today i'll send pics and yeah that's a brand new keg of beer in the truck.

That's why I prefer the floating axle of the Dana 60 in my F250. I can break an axle without loosing my brakes or wheels.