1971 f250 DESERT truck- 10/24 race prep
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- Menace Kustoms
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Re: 1971 f250 DESERT truck- 1/1 engine cage work
Your plans just got much bigger. That's what offroad trucks will do to you.
Josh
1970 Ford F250 LWB
390 c.i./C6 Automatic
1970 Ford F250 LWB
390 c.i./C6 Automatic
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Re: 1971 f250 DESERT truck- 1/1 engine cage work
Yep pretty muchMenace Kustoms wrote:Your plans just got much bigger. That's what offroad trucks will do to you.
If i'm going to go with coilovers I need to get hydraulic bump stops and if i do all that I'll need crossover steering and if i do all that then i better do something with the rear and if i do something with the rear i should change the wheel base ... and so on
The plan when I started tearing it down for the rebuild was for sure making it a SWB. Now I am not 100% sure If i am going to do that or not. The only thing holding me back, is just that for class 8 (class I'll be in) you can not have any frame modifications at all including change in wheelbase or notches, etc. But being that I'd be changing it to a SWB that would measure perfectly for original SWB specs, It really shouldn't matter. And I'd be plating the frame there and it wouldn't be too easy to notice anyways, and tech inspectors are not looking for this really they are looking for frame notches. I'm hesitant to get the driveshafts lengthened and do any rear cage work because I haven't decided yet.FormerMarine1981 wrote:Nice welding skills Ryan. Are you still going to make it a SWB??
-Ryan
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Re: 1971 f250 DESERT truck- 1/1 engine cage work
I would go SWB for sure man. That long wheel base can cause some serious problems out in the rough stuff. You should go spring under though if you do something with the back.
Josh
1970 Ford F250 LWB
390 c.i./C6 Automatic
1970 Ford F250 LWB
390 c.i./C6 Automatic
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Re: 1971 f250 DESERT truck- 1/1 engine cage work
wow you got some work in your truck
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Re: 1971 f250 DESERT truck- 1/1 engine cage work
Going SWB puts me at risk of getting rejected at tech to get into class 8 because of frame mods if It was a jerk tech inspector.Menace Kustoms wrote:I would go SWB for sure man. That long wheel base can cause some serious problems out in the rough stuff. You should go spring under though if you do something with the back.
I'll go spring under if i get a giant 64 kit at the leduce swap meet but those sell used 800+ and I'd rather buy/build links and get another set of coilovers and go straight to a 4 link.
yep... lots of hoursfbomb100 wrote:wow you got some work in your truck
-Ryan
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Re: 1971 f250 DESERT truck- 1/1 engine cage work
So, you could run a 4 link set up, but not shorten it to SWB? I would imagine if you had an official document with you that stated what the original wheel base of a SWB truck that they would let it fly. I just think that handling and such would be SO much better. If you link it with that long wheel base, you're gonna be very limited on uptravel.
Josh
1970 Ford F250 LWB
390 c.i./C6 Automatic
1970 Ford F250 LWB
390 c.i./C6 Automatic
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Re: 1971 f250 DESERT truck- 1/1 engine cage work
why do you say that?Menace Kustoms wrote: If you link it with that long wheel base, you're gonna be very limited on uptravel.
Because it will hit the cab corners? cab corners would get notched regardless of SWB or LWB
-Ryan
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Re: 1971 f250 DESERT truck- 1/1 engine cage work
No, it has nothing to do with cab corners, it's all simple geometry. Just look at the length that your lower links would be because of the length of the bed in front of the wheel openings. You will have much more down travel than uptravel. Since that truck is going to be heavy, and also because uptravel is more important most of the time, I would worry alot more about uptravel than downtravel. I would do the maximum notch front and rear you're allowed under Class 8 rules and do spring under axle. That is if you stick with LWB. It will be more stable and a LOT stronger with SUA leafs than super long link bars.
Josh
1970 Ford F250 LWB
390 c.i./C6 Automatic
1970 Ford F250 LWB
390 c.i./C6 Automatic
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Re: 1971 f250 DESERT truck- 1/1 engine cage work
You do have a point regarding link size because of driveshaft plunge.Menace Kustoms wrote:No, it has nothing to do with cab corners, it's all simple geometry. Just look at the length that your lower links would be because of the length of the bed in front of the wheel openings. You will have much more down travel than uptravel. Since that truck is going to be heavy, and also because uptravel is more important most of the time, I would worry alot more about uptravel than downtravel. I would do the maximum notch front and rear you're allowed under Class 8 rules and do spring under axle. That is if you stick with LWB. It will be more stable and a LOT stronger with SUA leafs than super long link bars.
I'm 95% sure I'd be chopping down to SWB if i link it. Still might chop down in about a month so i can get the driveshaft lengthened accordingly.
-Ryan
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Re: 1971 f250 DESERT truck- 1/1 engine cage work
I think that long term, that's a better bet for what you want to do with it. Less frame warpage and all that too.
Josh
1970 Ford F250 LWB
390 c.i./C6 Automatic
1970 Ford F250 LWB
390 c.i./C6 Automatic
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Re: 1971 f250 DESERT truck- 1/1 engine cage work
Finally touched the truck since being back in school off winter break. Won't be working on it this weekend at all (but i will be picking up some heavy goodies!) so I tried to get a little done today after school since i have no work today.
new window /\. This time out of 1.5" tube, and it goes through the defroster vents and hits the hidden dash tube right by the inner engine cage connections.
From this intersection there will be tubes going to the frame too.
And don't use cardboard to guard tine windshield of splatter because the cardboard likes to erupt into flames, letting you show off your skillz of how fast you can dance around in an empty cab trying to get the cardboard out.
Looks way more sicky gnar.
Then pulled the radius arms and stripped the beams down.
Picked up this steering setup from Rick massie of rescue racing, he donated it to the build but unfortunately i won't be able to use it. Mounting holes are on the wrong side.
Decided to use the original Ford (Saginaw) steering box. Moving it to the front of the frame, as shown here. Swapped the pitman arm around so when you turn the wheel right it turns right too, so it can be used for crossover steering.
Ditching the stock column and just going to run a shaft from PS box to swivel to steering wheel through heim.
new window /\. This time out of 1.5" tube, and it goes through the defroster vents and hits the hidden dash tube right by the inner engine cage connections.
From this intersection there will be tubes going to the frame too.
And don't use cardboard to guard tine windshield of splatter because the cardboard likes to erupt into flames, letting you show off your skillz of how fast you can dance around in an empty cab trying to get the cardboard out.
Looks way more sicky gnar.
Then pulled the radius arms and stripped the beams down.
Picked up this steering setup from Rick massie of rescue racing, he donated it to the build but unfortunately i won't be able to use it. Mounting holes are on the wrong side.
Decided to use the original Ford (Saginaw) steering box. Moving it to the front of the frame, as shown here. Swapped the pitman arm around so when you turn the wheel right it turns right too, so it can be used for crossover steering.
Ditching the stock column and just going to run a shaft from PS box to swivel to steering wheel through heim.
-Ryan
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Re: 1971 f250 DESERT truck- 1/6 suspension
The speed in which you work, along with the quality, never ceases to amaze me
1970 F250 Camper Special
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Re: 1971 f250 DESERT truck- 1/6 suspension
Anything new??
"Flyin High On Caffine And Copenhagen" R.I.P Chris LeDoux
60 Mercury Comet
65 Ford Econoline
72 Ford F100 on 79 4x4 SWB frame
77 Ford F250 "lowboy" 4x4
09 Harley Xl1200c
60 Mercury Comet
65 Ford Econoline
72 Ford F100 on 79 4x4 SWB frame
77 Ford F250 "lowboy" 4x4
09 Harley Xl1200c
- 1971ford
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Re: 1971 f250 DESERT truck- 1/6 suspension
Nope haven't touched it really since last update
Too busy planning the trip to san diego saturday/sunday to pick up a J-beam (one piece i-beam/radius arm) setup already bent to my needs and fully plated the length of the beam, with bushing ends cut off and replaced with uniballs on both i-beam and radius arm pivots. They are 1" kingpin. PIcking them up for $200, $100 in gas in mom's camry, and a 16 hour drive round trip. but half the reason i'm doing it is to go to san diego, and to hang out with the bro-dozer team.
Too busy planning the trip to san diego saturday/sunday to pick up a J-beam (one piece i-beam/radius arm) setup already bent to my needs and fully plated the length of the beam, with bushing ends cut off and replaced with uniballs on both i-beam and radius arm pivots. They are 1" kingpin. PIcking them up for $200, $100 in gas in mom's camry, and a 16 hour drive round trip. but half the reason i'm doing it is to go to san diego, and to hang out with the bro-dozer team.
-Ryan
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Re: 1971 f250 DESERT truck- 1/6 suspension
Man, why can't I find deals like that? All I need is bent beams and coils so I can clear 33s. Dang. Well, you will be driving right by me on your way, .
Josh
1970 Ford F250 LWB
390 c.i./C6 Automatic
1970 Ford F250 LWB
390 c.i./C6 Automatic