Transmission cooler lines - are they pressurized?
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- OldRedFord
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Re: Transmission cooler lines - are they pressurized?
You can use a compression union on steel line?
Tim
1972 F350 flatbed drw c6/390
1967 F600 project truck
1972 F350 flatbed drw c6/390
1967 F600 project truck
- 70_F100
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Re: Transmission cooler lines - are they pressurized?
You can try it.OldRedFord wrote:You can use a compression union on steel line?
I've never had much luck with compression fittings on steel tubing.
Generally, they are all double-flared.
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk because they have to say something.--Plato
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???
That's not an oil leak That's SWEAT from all that HORSEPOWER!!
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???
That's not an oil leak That's SWEAT from all that HORSEPOWER!!
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Re: Transmission cooler lines - are they pressurized?
This may be an older post, but the tip is apropos to many situations of stuck or frozen fastenings in general. I have found that heat can be my friend when breaking apart stubborn metal -to-metal connections, whether it is a 2" iron pipe nipple on a plumbing job or a stuck rocker arm stud in a cylinder head.
The approach I use is always surgical and cautious, but properly applied heat to a stubborn connection usually prevails without bloody knuckles. I like my propane torch, used gently, and in the case above, being aware that the solder in the radiator flows at somewhere near 600 degrees, F. , so care must be taken to isolate the heat near the problem connection, to avoid separating the lower tank of the radiator from the core. Just "sting it a little", be gentle with the torque force, and good things usually happen.
The approach I use is always surgical and cautious, but properly applied heat to a stubborn connection usually prevails without bloody knuckles. I like my propane torch, used gently, and in the case above, being aware that the solder in the radiator flows at somewhere near 600 degrees, F. , so care must be taken to isolate the heat near the problem connection, to avoid separating the lower tank of the radiator from the core. Just "sting it a little", be gentle with the torque force, and good things usually happen.