Help! 1967 3spd manual

[Forge]

Hi All,
I'm in the process of getting my '67 I-6 F100 back on the road and am having problems figuring out what parts I need to buy to make the column shifter work again. I can get all 4 gears but its super sloppy and gets locked into 2nd-3rd every time. I know I need the bushings replaced under the hood, but what is causing it to be sloppy and lock up? Thanks!

[fordman]

http://www.fordification.com/tech/3spd-column_01.htm

[Forge]

http://www.fordification.com/tech/3spd-column_01.htm

Thanks, that link is a HUGE help! I would really like to hear some tips and pointers from folks wh had to do this repair to their trucks - and which supplier's shifter parts are good er bad?

Thanks!

[fordman]

its probably just a matter of bushings and maybe some adjutment. those shifter bushing can be gotten from most vendors. i think. it just depends on who you want to buy from. there are probably only tweo manufactures of those things. one inthe usa and one in china. figuring out who is who is a hard thing to do unless you go by reputation. that says alot. i'll be right back dont quote me yet. EDIT: ok here is a page from our sister site. since these bushings are pretty close you can see that a quick search or http://www.partsvoice.om may result in a factory item if you want to go that way too. more than likely these are the same bushings as our columns and transmissions. but i cant guarnetee that becasue i dont have a master catalog to give me the origianl part numebrs. but i have seen both dentside and bumpside columns and knwo they will fit and work fine. http://www.fordification.net/forums/vie ... p?f=8&t=91

[RandyBee1]

In my case I had pretty sloppy shifting for a good while. I actually thought it was normal. Anyway, one day it just would not go into 1st anymore. I took the column apart and the problem was that the hole that the shifter goes into was worn into an egg shape. I sent it to Carolina Classics and he made me a new shift tube. The bearing and bushings I got were from LMC and Dennis Carpenter.. no complaints!

Randy B

[killakobra]

could also be collapsed cab mounts binding the column holding it in 2-3.

[cdeal28078]

could also be collapsed cab mounts binding the column holding it in 2-3.

Might be both. I would check the cab mounts anyway.
I rebuilt the column on my 71 F100 before swapping it to automatic. If you can find them get the bearings with the metal races. Last longer.
The plastic pieces that go between the shift arms are a pain. The whole thing can be a pain so take pictures or use the drawings available. It can be done easy enough but at times you need three hands.
While there the shift tube probably needs work or replacement. Check the rag joint at the very end where it connects to the gear box. Also if you have horn problems it is a good time to check the ground strap behind the rag joint. If it gets broken the horn will not work
clint

[Forge]

Ok, so after a long hiatus of being too broke to work on my truck, I'm back! I ordered up all the bushings, spacers and washers, and isolator, but nothing else. I took it all apart, as far as I could go from inside the cab. The shift collar looks bad where the pin from the shift arm lives also the SPRING-UPPER COLUMN was missing alltogether. The shift tube looks good, but the little plate where all the action goes on is loose on it's weld (is that normal?).

So to get to the shift arms it looks like I need to pull the steering shaft out? How is this done, properly, and what shop manuals do you all recommend? I reeally need help!

Thanks!

[sargentrs]

I just rebuilt mine on my '70 a year or so ago. You'll need to pull the whole column. Not sure about a '67 but mine was pretty simple. Just make notes or take pics of the bottom end of it as you take it apart. The most complicated thing is the orientation of the shift arms and plastic washers. If those aren't in the right place and sequence, nothing will work. Definitely get the plate retacked on the shift tube or get another one. Pulling the column is pretty easy. Disconnect the shift levers from the shifter arms. Take the two nuts off the rag joint. Remove the inner and outer firewall plates. Remove the 2 bolts holding the column up under the dash and just ease it down. Once you get it lowered down, disconnect the harness plug and take it out. I'd never tried anything like that before I did mine. I just used the tech article on this site and took notes as I went. Once you have it out, tap out the shift lever pin and remove the shift lever. Remove the nut under the horn button and remove the steering wheel. You may need a puller if it doesn't come off easy. Follow the steps in the tech article to disassemble the top end. The steering shaft slides out the bottom. The shift tube comes out of the top. Before you take it all apart, make note of the position and orientation of the shift arms and plastic/metal washers. I suggest easing the shift tube out and keeping those parts together as a "pack" so you'll know how to stack the new parts back together. Go ahead and replace the rubber bushings in the shift arms while you have them out. I had to take mine apart and put it back together 3 times because I kept forgetting to do something or another Altogether, I think I spent $85 and that included buying a column shaft and new turn signal harness. Took about a half a day but that included sanding and painting. Am I forgetting something guys?

[Forge]

Thanks Sargentrs!
Your post gave me the missing info I needed to get the column out. What a dirty greazy mess - I soaked the main outer column tube in kerosene and noticed the metal at top of the tube was ripped in two places (prolly from someone trying to force it into gear). Does anyone know where I can get another one?

Are there any reputable used parts dealers, does anyone have a good used one they would sell me - or should I just get it re-welded?

[70_F100]

Here are a couple listed on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-197 ... 19b557c026

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/65-77-FO ... 1e4f691675

[sargentrs]

Those are some great prices! Carolina Classics wants $54 for theirs. Glad I could help, Forge. Mine shifts great with just changing the washers, spacers and bushings. And changing the upper and lower column bearings took all the wobble out of the steering wheel. Go ahead and get a new spring for the bottom while you're at it. I didn't and wish I had. Shifts good, I just have to pull the shifter to me coming thru/past neutral cuz the spring doesn't push the shift tube up well enough.

[Forge]

Hey thanks for the links, but I'm talking about the big tube that holds the steering rod and the shift tube. I'll try and get some pics going...

[Forge]

Ok, so a fairly complete '68 got dragged into the scrap metal yard behind my work - I went to town and got the entire shift column and the clutch/brake pedals/bracket(mine is a wreck) & master cylinder. So I now have a good column tube and I got new shift tube, collar, bearings, sleeves and spring I am now trying to sort out the '68 pedal cluster and would like to add a power booster to the mix. Does anyone have any wise words on this? Thanks!!

[fordman]

the 67 and 68-72 clutch / brake pedal bracket is different. you have to use either the 67 booster with the 67 bracket. or the 68-72 booster and bracket matched together. you can do the clutch pedal bearign repair to your 67 bracket if needed. or swap in the 68 bracket and get a 68-72 booster to go in it.