I couldn't find any info on how to remove this transmission configuration, so here's an outline of how I did it. I'm also curious how others have done it, as I'm sure I did it different than some.
After clearing out the linkages, driveshafts, both exhaust pipes (and the driver's side header, but that was unnecessary) and unbolting the transission from the bellhousing, I had a bit of trouble figuring out how to get it out of the truck. On my truck the crossmember which supports the rear of the transmission (its the only trans crossmember) is riveted in place. I had to remove the transfer case (Dana 21) from the extension housing and remove it separately. Then I had to tilt the whole trans on its side and slide it out over the back of the crossmember.
I really didnt want to have to install it that way, as I am doing the job solo, using a floor jack with a makeshift cradle I made out of an old wheel. I noticed that one of the previous owners had simply cut the crossmember out between the 'uprights' of the crossmember, and welded it back up afterward. That didn't appeal to me, so I cut used an angle grinder to take the heads off the rivets and pounded them out with a channel locks holding a punch and a BFH. I had help for that part. It was possible to do this because I was replacing the floor pans at the same time.
Installation was much easier than removal . I replaced the rivets with 5/16" grade 8 bolts and am in the process of putting in small removable floor panels for access the the top bolts. As a side note, i couldnt get the transmission flush up with the bellhousing for the life of me! I ended up hanging the bellhousing, pressure plate and clutch off the input shaft and then I got it. Turns out the step on the input shaft nose was catching on the inside of the throwout bearing, preventing the trans and bellhousing from coming together. Just something to watch out for, it hung me up for more hours than I care to mention .
Probably not the easiest method to pull a trans, but the only way that made sense to me.
Transmission removal - 1967 F100 4WD (NP435, D21)
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Re: Transmission removal - 1967 F100 4WD (NP435, D21)
I would probably drill the holes out to use at least a 3/8 bolt, and probably 7/16.
5/16 is just a little small, in my opinion, for bolting up a crossmember.
5/16 is just a little small, in my opinion, for bolting up a crossmember.
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk because they have to say something.--Plato
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???
That's not an oil leak That's SWEAT from all that HORSEPOWER!!
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???
That's not an oil leak That's SWEAT from all that HORSEPOWER!!
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- Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2010 2:30 pm
- Location: Powers Lake, ND
Re: Transmission removal - 1967 F100 4WD (NP435, D21)
Now that you mention it, I think I did use 7/16" bolts. I get the smaller fractions mixed up sometimes. If I remember correctly, the rivets themselves were 3/8".