My Cummins conversion project truck

[averagef250]

I think I have a set of poly t-case mounts around here somewhere. You'd be welcome to them if you want them. They had maybe 2k on them before I finally rid myself of the divorced case for good. I have a strut setup for a 205 in a 73-77 you could have for a deal as well.

For what it's worth the divorced setup is a royal PITA past a certain level of power. The t-case wraps up in it's mounts under loading. Certain things can increase the cases rigidity, some don't do much good at all. Nothing practical really solves the root problem and a short driveline grossly agrivates the situation as when the t-case wraps forward the center driveline U-joint angles go fubar. Poly mounts and a strut on a 205 are a good direction.

EDIT: I just looked back and saw you have the D24 t-case.

[Ranchero50]

Duck, just wanted to let you know that the alternator wiring worked out great For some odd reason the Mopar alternator has two field windings and no stator winding. You need the stator for the charging indicator to work on the newer trucks but I like the voltmeter instead. Like you said, ground one side (like Ford does in the alternator) and hook the other one to the field winding (F). Hook switched 12v to the I or S terminals and 12v reference to the (A). From the way the regulator wiring look you may not need the A if you hook switched 12v to the I, but I'm not wure how the electronic regulators work (I'm looking at a '68 manual)

The F450 tow truck with 5:13 gears tops out in fourth gear around 40 MPH. We have a 10lug disc brake setup with 4.56s to try out but really a set of 3.50's would be great if they made them for the big Sterlings. Sounds good straight piped to 4" stacks and takes forever to open the thermostat.

I hope yours is going well.

Jamie

[duckbill59]

That's good Jamie that the wiring is working for both of us wired that way. I am in no way electrical smart but I rely on the "water thru the pipe" therory in my thinking. And regardless of whether the Dodge alternator had a built in regulator or not, I figured it's output could input the stock Ford regulator since it was already installed and wired into the stock Ford harness and make the job of wirng easier for me. And now after approximatley 150 miles and two 42 mile night trips (headlights, wipers, and heater on), it seemed to work well so far. Before this installation and with the original engine/alternator, I never saw my charging dash gauge move so much! And now that I got the overdrive working, and with the 3:73 gears and 37 "tires, the truck cruises effortlessly at 60-70 MPH which is all I need. Theres more if I need it but it cruises pretty nice. And I am extremly pleased with the power of the truck as those two night runs were from work getting off at midnight and prior to work, I picked up 2 yards of compost each day which was quite a load but the truck hauled it just fine. I am stoked about the swap so far!!!!

[Ranchero50]

I'm glad it fit so well. I put in my order for the next one that shows up for my F350 dually from my buddy the junk man. I ended up grafting the Dodge core support into the F450 support to reuse the Dodge radiator and first gen intercooler.

Jamie

[duckbill59]

Right way Spring Company (866) 959-6475. I must admit I went in there asking to have my original springs re-arched and if possible, have the front ones "beefed up" for the Cummins additional weight. I appreciated his honesty by saying he didn't want to take my money for re-arching. He said it wouldn't last and that if I wanted about a 2" lift for the tires, and a beefier spring, then I should look at the aftermarket spring companies. He said he could provide either a 5 leaf spring (standard 4X4 spring) or a 6 leaf spring (a heavy duty spring) and that both would retain stock height. So since he couldn't help me with a "cost effective" way of raising the truck and adding some strength for the engine, I ended up going through 4 wheel parts to get the 4" springs I have. If I recall, 2" was available but you know how it goes, if 2" is good, then 4" must be better. And although it turned out a little higher than I expected at the beginning, it feels really stable at speed driving it around and those springs seems to handle weight really well after hauling that compost on it's maiden voyage! I just wish I wasn't so short and fat which makes getting in the thing hard on the steering column!!!

[HRDROKN]

Great job on this project!!!

[duckbill59]

Thanks HRDROKN for the comment. It's nothing compared to the thought, engineering, and fabrication that your truck project involves but what I have done with it so far serves me well. And I must say, you are quite the fabricator! Thanks again.......

[hydropower]

Your project is looking good. Glad to hear it is on the road, what all of us are working towards.I have a question about your fuel tank. Galvinized tanks and diesel are not good. I first learned this when I was installing a diesel generator as a backup for a home. The instructions from onan specifically said do not use galvinized as it leaches into the fuel. Of course I had already made a custom galvinized tank. I am not sure how long it would take for damage to occur? From what I understand it messes with the pump. I am thinking about using a sealer, or getting a plastic tank.

[duckbill59]

Thanks hydropower for the comments and the concern about the fuel tank. I asked just about everyone at work and friends who I thought knew about the tank issue and did not hear of any negatives using the stock gas tank. I do like the idea of using the "creem" tank sealant or the likes to encapsulate the galvenization. Knock on wood, I haven't had any problems that I know of yet! But thanks for the information. I will keep an eye on it.

[averagef250]

Your project is looking good. Glad to hear it is on the road, what all of us are working towards.I have a question about your fuel tank. Galvinized tanks and diesel are not good. I first learned this when I was installing a diesel generator as a backup for a home. The instructions from onan specifically said do not use galvinized as it leaches into the fuel. Of course I had already made a custom galvinized tank. I am not sure how long it would take for damage to occur? From what I understand it messes with the pump. I am thinking about using a sealer, or getting a plastic tank.

I've only heard galv being a problem with waste cooking oil. I've only had one diesel rig that had plastic tanks, the rest galvanized. Going on a couple dozen diesel converts I built for others, most of them were all galv tanks. I don't think there's an issue there.

[fireguywtc]

afaik all of the more modern diesel trucks that come with a galvanized tank have a liner of some kind in them. I know all of the chassis cab fords come that way, but I don't know what year they started doing that.

[duckbill59]

You all have created a question in my mind about the diesel and the galvanizing in the tank and since I work as a mechanic in an oil refinery, I figured the lab process engineers should know the answer to this concern. And basically, the answer was that there are no constraints in what diesel can be shipped in and as far as they can figure, galvanizing should be no problem for diesel. Gasoline has restrictions concerning shipping but nothing for diesel that they know of. And as far as chemistry, they know nothing about any concerns in applications using galvanized tanks and with diesel fuel. I did encounter a "stumble" while driving it one day and was a little concerned about it but added a can of the NAPA version of "heat" and since then, no problems noted with the running of the engine. And since I have gotten the truck running, I might have 250 miles on it total. So maybe as time goes by, I might learn more about the tank issues. Thanks all for the input about this!

[duckbill59]

Well it's been a while since I posted with any additions to the truck project. Been a little hectic with the grandkids/summer and gardening stuff, and work in general. But after a few driving experiences with the truck, I quickly realized that I needed to give the vehicle in front of me plenty of room in order to be able to avoid collisions! The problem is driving in traffic as I am always having that "safe" space taken from me by other drivers filling those gaps. So the next best thing is to make the truck stop/slow better. So I purchased a 2000 and newer Chevy hydroboost unit and master cylinder off of Ebay to use for my conversion hoping I could adapt and make it work for me. And after removing the old brake setup and doing some comparison measurements, I realized that the distance from the mounting flange on the hydroboost to the pushrod eye was within roughly 3/16" of the original Ford setup measured from the standoff bracket to the eye. So I built a mounting plate from 1/4" plate with orignal Ford bolt pattern and a large hole for the hydroboost to fit through it. I had to trim the firewall hole ever so slightly for the hydroboost unit to protrude through and I had to enlarge the eye in the pushrod just a tiny bit for the origianl ford plastic bushing to fit inside the eye. After powdercoating the mounting plate, I installed it on the hydroboost unit and then using the stock ford bolts, bolted it to the firewall. I connected the pushrod eye using the ford shouldered bolt and then adjusted the brake switch to work with the slight change in pedal position. The local hose company had the o-ringed fitting adapters for the power steering and hydroboost pressure line connections that converted the hose connections to JIC. I had the two hoses made to length and installed them. I added the "Tee" in the return line for the additional return line from the hydroboost. The front brake line connection fit as it did on the Ford master cylinder but I had to remove the rear line fitting and replace it with a larger fitting for the rear master cylinder connection. After bleeding the brakes and purging the power steering pump/hydroboost/steering box, the initial test drive proved to be a "GREAT" success! What a difference it made in stopping. I haven't been in city traffic yet but just the few stops I have made with it is simply amazing how well it works. Here are some pictures of the finished install.

By duckbill59 at 2010-07-25[/img]

By duckbill59 at 2010-07-25[/img]

By duckbill59 at 2010-07-25[/img]

By duckbill59 at 2010-07-25[/img]
So thats it for now. Nothing else really planned on the truck now till this winter when the body damage gets worked out and some painting of the original colors or something real close.

[Fordnatic]

Really great project!! Have you got any idea of mileage yet?

[duckbill59]

No Fordnatic I have no actual mileage checks yet. Seems like I should considering the length of time I have had it road worthy! I do know though for a fact........it's a whole heck of a lot better than the 360's was in either Ford truck I started with!!! I will post results of a fuel mileage check on my next long distance drive with the truck.