Stage 8 X lock install

[heviarti]

Hopefully I don't violate any rules by posting repeatedly to my own thread.. but I'm not sure how to put the images anywhere but at the bottom,.. and this is kind of an article.

My Stage 8 X lock install

I originally saw the X lock advertised on 'Power Block', that deal on TV where the folks get all the good parts for a little or nothing and have a clean, easy build... unlike in real life.

I had thought about installing the X lock on all four spindles on the Power Wagon, just to be cool. Then I spat out a lockhub in the Ford due to the stock spindle nuts. Installing the X lock became a necessity. I called Stage 8 at 1-800-843-7836 and found out kits were available for the Dana 44 and 60, and possibly others. Then ensued the struggle to determine what front axle I had on my '70 F100.

It turned out to be a Dana 44, and I ordered one directly from Stage 8 by phone. That was last Friday at 16:00, and it arrived via Priority Mail Monday morning at 11:00.

The item was packaged in a box with 'peanuts' and taped with Stage 8 branded strap tape. Within that, the product was in a plastic blister pack along with the label which doubles as the instructions. I didn't even need a chainsaw, samurai sword, or a scalpel to open the package. All the metal parts were coated with an anti-rust treatment which did it's job famously.

Pic 1: the packaged product
Pic 2: contents of the package

*edit for clarification*

[heviarti]

Busted software. Can't post new topic and add pics. Here they are.

[heviarti]

I jacked my front end up and removed the lock hub to access the jam nut assembly. Once in, I used a cold chisel to loosen the outside nut. I then had to use the chisel again to beat the locking plate clockwise to get the tab off the threads and back into the slot for removal. I then used my brazing rod hooks to pull the plate out. Finally I removed the inboard nut.

pictured are the stock assembly and a close-up of the inadequate tab

[heviarti]

The X lock is a series of five components. It's designed to be the same height as the stock unit without the thrust washer.

The thrust washer was added as an afterthought, because the spindles on some 44s the keyway is cut square to the end and on others it's cut with a stone and ramped at the end. The ramped units can prevent full seating of the notched washer, and foul up your preload. The thrust washer measures in at .125. That's an eighth of an inch. It can be deleted on the square cut spindles, but I'd only do so if I was having clearance issues

After the thrust washer is installed, the notched washer is next. It provides the anti-rotation characteristic to the unit. Rather than being a sloppy stamping, the notched washer is laser cut and fits tightly. The tab in the notched washer is also approximately a quarter inch deep. At three times the lateral depth and twice the height of the anti-rotation tab on the stock lock plate, that makes *six times* the amount of material holding the assembly in one place. It also fits the tubular portion of the spindle very closely to eliminate shifting. Two deep cuts are supplied at the tab, either to increase strength or prevent the washer from sticking with grease and vacuum.

Shown are the washer before installation and the washer installed

[Wes]

that new lock system should fix the problem. The old lock ring is very worn, looks like it's been spinning for a long while. It wouldn't surprise me if the spindle has some wear as well.
You should in vest in a socket to service the hubs.

[heviarti]

After the notched washer goes in, a grooved spindle nut with two snap ring cuts. The twin cuts make it non-directional. The nut is nearly as deep as both of the stock nuts put together.

The nut is grooved to accept a standard spindle nut tool, but has eight grooves instead of the standard four. Not having a reliable spindle nut wrench I set the preload with a drift and small hammer.

It might seem that only preload on the spindle nut would be inadequate to retain itself, but not so. A locking retainer binds the spindle nut by all eight grooves to the rock solid notched washer, the retainer is in turn held by a very large snap ring. (so large I did not have a pair of snap ring pliers large enough to tightly engage the holes in it)

In a week or so when I can get to the tractor shop I'll be sure the preload is right with a dial indicator and tighten using a John Deere spanner socket that properly fits spindle nuts unlike the KD piece of doodoo that's way too sloppy.

All in all I would reccommend this upgrade to anyone having trouble with their spindle nuts, anyone doing hard wheeling, or anyone running large tires. Each assembly costs about $75, So next paycheck if I can afford another I'll do the other side. Check them out at http://www.stage8.com

This was tested on a 1970 Ford F-100 with Dana 44 front.