haas anyone ever fixed vapor lock

[sacramento_ford]

if it isnt my coil i had made me lose some hair .. im tired of stalling

[sacramento_ford]

.. im tired of stalling[/quote]

[cdeal28078]

If it is vapor lock there are several things you can do to help.
1st, make sure your metal fuel line is as far away from the block or exhaust as possible.
2nd, if it is an FE engine with the heater hoses running through the carb base change that
3rd, if the intake has the port under the carb to heat the carb cover it with a piece of shim stock
4th, Use a wooden carb spacer about 3/4" think under the carb, they even have a heat shield you can use as well that shields the fuel bowls from heat as well.
Some people put clothes pins on their fuel line a swear it works. Wooden ones. I never needed to go that far.
Probably many other ideas out there
clint

[70_F100]

cdeal said it best.

The old-school way of overcoming vapor lock was to put wooden clothespins on the fuel line. They act as heat sinks and help dissipate the engine heat that the fuel line absorbs.

I've also seen (many years ago) people wrap their fuel line with aluminum foil. Wrap it with the dull side to the fuel line, so that it absorbs the heat from the fuel line and reflects the heat from the engine. Add the clothespins to it, and you will see what a LOT of HP engines looked like in the 60's and 70's.

Many times, these tricks would work.

Fact of the matter is, vapor lock is generally caused by a weak fuel pump. The pump may provide sufficient pressure and volume to run the engine on a cold-to-moderately hot day. But, when the outside temperature climbs, heat from the engine increases, and can make the gas in the fuel line vaporize prior to reaching the carburetor. If the pump is not functioning properly, it cannot produce enough pressure or volume to compress the vaporized gas, which results in vapor lock. The vaporized gas can also hold the fuel pump check valves open or closed, resulting in the pump not being able to move the gas at all.

Try the clothespin and/or aluminum foil tricks first.

If that affects it in the least, I would spend the few bucks it costs to replace the fuel pump before I went chasing down other possibilities.

The other things that cdeal suggested are all excellent suggestions, and may help. Each of them essentially insulates the fuel system from heat, which is a good thing. However, they don't address the root cause of the problem, and you could still be left stranded.

Keep in mind, I'm not saying that a new pump will fix it, but there's a darned good chance it will.

[sacramento_ford]

interesting ideas. geesh. i had to apologize to my truck for calling it a pos. just gets old stalling. very embaarasing . i was also
thinking how bout fuel line rubber hoses around the fuel line. also i have a cut on one of my take hoses on the drivers side, i use the other side. not sure if that could cause a issue. well wish me luck , im gonna eplace the coil and stat there. but yeah leeme know please if fuel line covered in rubber hose is a good idea, thanks

[m-mman]

You say "vapor lock" but your symptoms are "stalling"
Vapor lock is related to HEAT! It stalls HOT and only HOT. The stalling stops as soon as things cool down. On a bumpside truck the under hood has enough air space and Ford Truck radiators are big enough that vapor lock is NOT a common problem.

Stalling?
CHECK YOUR FUEL FILTERS. I have fought plugged filters many, many times over the years.
You have one in the tank (it removes with the sending unit)
You might have one screwed to the bottom of the fuel pump in a can
You might have one where the fuel line goes into the carb.
You might have one put most anywhere else by a PO.

When checking a fuel filter blow through it and it should offer NO MORE resistance than a drinking straw.
If you have to force air at all, it is plugged. Replace it.

Next - YES! check the rubber lines. Dont forget the one that is under the cab from the tank to the frame. They get soft and collapse AND they get pin holes (that you cant see) and suck air instead of fuel.

[fordman]

are you sure you got the carb finally adjusted?

[sacramento_ford]

are you sure you got the carb finally adjusted?

yeah img gonna get the coil tested. ,,, yesterday, i thought it iwas fixed casue i been adjusting the air fuel. drove fine ,
next day drove to the store. would stall. sometimes like someone tuned off the key other time a slow stall. i think carb is fine.
other wise it wouldnt have dive me the 10 miles ive done the day before. i stalled yesteday, just went dead like someone turned off the key and i rolled. it almost started for a sec , then died. to be honest, does better when cold. i know when its hot it not gonna start .. i think i rebuilt the carb fo nothing cause this is what it was doing befoe, im gonna take the coil tommorw and see what happens, something intermitten .390s rattle so much, might be a loose or frayed.

[fordman]

ok i see now.

[furnitureguy-123]

Try unhooking the fuel line at the pump. Remove the cap from the gas tank. Stick your air hose in the end of the line at the pump end and blow!!!!! I had a 70 Mach 1 that would run for 10-15 mins and then die. Let it sit for a while, it would start right up, run for 10-15 mins and then die. On and on and on............ I replaced everything in both the electrical and fuel sytems, coil, carb, pump, wires, I mean everything. Nothing helped. One day an old mechanic put my car on the lift unhooked the fuel line at the pump, opened the gas cap, and blew high pressure through the hose. I heard a hisssssssss and then pow!!! There was a piece of rust or dirt that had somehow turned sideways in the fuel line and as the car sat, enough fuel would get by the dirt to fill the fuel pump and the car would run until the gas in the pump was gone. So everytime i have this type of problem that is the first thing I do.
That is exactly the way that I found why my 66 flareside would not start. When the guy relined the tank he plugged the first 2 inches of the pick up tube with material. When I blew air in nothing happened. So i just kept isolating parts of the fuel lie until I found the plug.
Try it. It doesn't take long and it will help.

[70_F100]

Some good points here about clogged fuel lines and filters.

One time I had to work on a mobile home hauler that did exactly the same thing your truck is doing. Worked on it for days. Finally, I found a piece of a leaf that had gotten into the gas tank. The truck would run fine until the leaf got sucked over the fuel line, and the engine would die. Let it sit for a few minutes, and the leaf would float back to the top, then the engine would run fine again. The leaf was brown so it wasn't easy to see using a flashlight. Drained the tank, found the leaf, case closed.

[cdeal28078]

Could be the problem. A Willys m38a1 I used to have had a 64 289 in it. I was just 16 then. It would run for a while and start cutting off. Had so much rust in the tank under the eat it would clog the filer at the carb. Once it shut off the fuel and rust would fall back down to the pump.
clint