What is a good place to get parts for a ford. 1970 Ford F250 camper special. It would be nice to put a new exhaust system and headers on it. But not sure were to being and if I should do it myself. I have no experience and little tools. I been told there is kits that make it pretty easy.. Any suggestions guys or gals
really on theis old trucks its easy to change headers just make sure their going to fit. basic socket and wrinch sets are ideal and not much tools but wd 40 and a tq wrinch but you do need to know how to use one, the bolts will prob be rusted pritty good too, so watch it if you brake one off....hell start watch speed tv and really get close in forums to get knowledge.... when i done headers on my 05 magnum with the 5.7 hemi i had to remove the heads on it because it was really tight in their and long tubes made it tighter and i had to run to the store to get tools about 3 times..... just to let you know deff make sure the headers come with good gaskets and bolts...
1971 f-100 sport custom two wheel drive with 360 auto, restoration
2005 dodge magnum 5.7 hemi all bolt ons and 100 shot of nitrous
400 rwhp on 100 shot
466 rwtq on 100 shot
Hey thanks for your help... I am actuly just got to take a good look at the truck today. It is a 1972 F250.. and it has two gas tanks in the back..not sure what that is... But thanks for the help
and cross the drivers side over in between the engine and transmission like it was stock and you'll have no problems. With the aux tank, you can't run duals down both sides because the tank is in the way. Running it down the passenger side is just fine if you cross it over in the correct place.
With the FE's breaking off the top bolts is always a concern. There are post here on the forum regarding procedures on this. Do a search and you should get all the information you'll need.
The top bolts are exposed to the elements from the bottom on FE's and they tend to freeze in place over the years. The way I got mine out was to heat the ears (tabs) where the bolts go through with an oxy-acetylene torch setup untill they were red hot. I backed the bolts out slowly until they got tight again, then re-heated back to red and turned some more. You're not focusing on heating the bolt, but the metal around it. Your other option is to just try them, and if (when) they break you can drill them out and just put bolts with nuts on the back side, but that really isn't fun. If I were you and the manifolds don't leak and aren't cracked I would just leave them alone. Installing my headers with no real hang-ups took me eight hours, and I've owned over 40 cars/trucks and done this many times and have all the right tools. I don't want to scare you, but exhaust work is a pain. If the manifolds are good just have an exhaust shop fab you up a nice system from the manifolds back. True duals with an h-pipe, 2.25"pipe, and the mufflers of your choice would probably make you perfectly happy. Just my
Joe
1971 F100 flareside 8ft
1964 Chrysler New Yorker Town and Country wagon
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins
2005 Ford Ranger
Hey this is come good advice.. I will check them out once it gets out of the shop.. I was just told that is better headers i could maybe pull some better fuel economy. But if i can just install somenew pipes and get the sound i want then cool
If your engine is relatively stock then headers are a waste of money. Fomocoguy is right about the manifolds. If they're not broke and don't leak i'd just leave them. I've installed headers before and noticed NO change whatsoever.
Personally with the aux. tank I'd suggest going with a nice single exhaust. No real point of running dual exhaust if they're both running along the same line, just step up the pipe size and run a nice single.
PS - I don't understand what some of you guys are talking about. What's this "not leaking" exhaust manifold thing you're talking about?
www.advlifestyle.com 1971 Camper Special (390 / C6 / D60) 1970 F250 High Boy (NP435 / Dana 24 / No engine, rusted to hell and back body, project to combine with above.)
1966 Rustang (289 / C4 Project stalled for ages) 1989 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D44 / 35's) 1996 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D35)
GSequoia wrote:Personally don't understand what some of you guys are talking about. What's this "not leaking" exhaust manifold thing you're talking about?
My hi-boy doesn't leak. No gaskets and Good machine work = no leaks.
sideoilerfe wrote:No gaskets and Good machine work = no leaks.
Now that's just cheating.
www.advlifestyle.com 1971 Camper Special (390 / C6 / D60) 1970 F250 High Boy (NP435 / Dana 24 / No engine, rusted to hell and back body, project to combine with above.)
1966 Rustang (289 / C4 Project stalled for ages) 1989 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D44 / 35's) 1996 Jeep Cherokee (4.0 / Auto / D30 / D35)
What is a good place to get parts for a ford. 1970 Ford F250 camper special. It would be nice to put a new exhaust system and headers on it. But not sure were to being and if I should do it myself. I have no experience and little tools. I been told there is kits that make it pretty easy.. Any suggestions guys or gals
Remember to insulate your header pipes on the R side, or they'll cook your starter.
Or, get a new starter that is rated for that kind of heat. Plan on $150 for that, alone.
The top bolts are exposed to the elements from the bottom on FE's and they tend to freeze in place over the years. The way I got mine out was to heat the ears (tabs) where the bolts go through with an oxy-acetylene torch setup untill they were red hot. I backed the bolts out slowly until they got tight again, then re-heated back to red and turned some more. You're not focusing on heating the bolt, but the metal around it. Your other option is to just try them, and if (when) they break you can drill them out and just put bolts with nuts on the back side, but that really isn't fun. If I were you and the manifolds don't leak and aren't cracked I would just leave them alone. Installing my headers with no real hang-ups took me eight hours, and I've owned over 40 cars/trucks and done this many times and have all the right tools. I don't want to scare you, but exhaust work is a pain. If the manifolds are good just have an exhaust shop fab you up a nice system from the manifolds back. True duals with an h-pipe, 2.25"pipe, and the mufflers of your choice would probably make you perfectly happy. Just my 
