Tune up time

[72bumbee]

just got done dinking with the carburetor now going to do a tune up to try to iron out this rough running beauty! I changed the spark plugs last week. Now I have points, cap, wires for spark plugs, and rotor. I have never done a tune up before, but have a general idea. If I can figure out how to get the rotor and points out,I could figure out how to get the new ones in. I am also curious as to if a timing is necessary? I don't have a timing gun and have heard it is a must to time the engine after doing this stuff. Also, is there anything I am missing? Any more parts I need inside there to change?
Thanks again!
Steve

[fordman]

since you dont have a way to time it then thats out of the picture. dont forget the condensor if you do it.

[72bumbee]

oh crud. where does the condenser go? you would think the doink at the Auto Zone would have thought of that! I am still trying to figure out how to get all this stuff out. Is there a screw somewhere I am missing?
The AZ guy forgot to sell me a new float for the carburetor. Guess it pays to write this stuff down. Yeeeehaw!

[towtruckerfour]

The condensor is inside the distributor with the points. There are two screws for the points and one for the condensor. There is also a wire that goes from the condensor to the points. It is actually pretty easy once you look inside and see how they go together. Just don't drop any screws.

[72bumbee]

I can't seem to find out where the release screw is for the rotor. I have been trying to pull it up to remove it, but there is something else holding it. My friend told me to stop what I was doing, and wait until I have a timing light and some other meter as I should not have to force anything and there were other settings inside That needed adjusting. So here I sit again.
I honestly do not see these two screw. I see a rotor sitting on top of a round plastic disc. I see stuff under the disc, but I see no screws.

[Sam I Am]

Take the rotor and that plastic disk out and you should be able to see the screws for the points and condenser.
The rotor should just pull straight up, no screw on the rotor. It's not going to jump off there by itself, you have to pull it.
Remember to put the disk back on before the rotor when you put it back together.

If you do one wire at a time it makes it really east to change the cap and plug wires.
Simply orient the cap to the clock position it will sit once installed, start with one wire, stick it to the plug, route it where it needs to go, then plug it into the cap and move on to the next wire.
Don't make it any harder than it needs to be. If you pull them off all at once, then you get to figure out which one goes where and it wastes time.

If you stick a screwdriver to a strong magnet (like on the back of a speaker) for a couple of hours the screwdriver will become magnetized and will help to keep you from dropping the screws.
Magnetic screwdriver is also great for changing out the motherboard in your computer.

[72bumbee]

Thanks for all the help, I use my magnetic screwdriver set on everything BUT my computers! LOL!
I am going to pry on the rotor with my screwdriver just a little. I was warned against that by my stepdad but I need to get going again, I have some wood to get. Also, does all the timing and that other guage thingy NEED to be done?

[Sam I Am]

Also, does all the timing and that other guage thingy NEED to be done?

Yes.
But...
as long as you never turned the distributor while you were working on it, it should still be close to the correct timing setting.

As far as the "gauge thingy", yes you absolutely have to use a feeler gauge to set the points correctly.
If not, the truck might not even start. And even if it did it would run so badly your first stop would be at a store to buy a feeler gauge, if it makes it that far.
You should listen to your friend that told you to stop and wait until you have all the parts and tools you need to do the job correctly. it sounds like he is trying to look out for you.

[72bumbee]

Thank you sam you am. I got it all apart and saw there was no condensor or points. Was told it was electronic iggy. It is still running. all the gaps are set on the plugs and timing. Your help has been appreciated! On to the intake manifold!
Thanks a ton everyone!
Steve

[Montana71-F100]

I am attaching scans of the tune up section from my 1971 truck shop manual. I don't think I can send all three pages in one post so I'll send 2 more posts. I hope they help.

[Montana71-F100]

This is page 2 of 3. I hope you can read these.

[Montana71-F100]

This is 3 of 3.