NAME THAT CARBURETOR!

[72bumbee]

I drove down to Auto Zone to get a rebuild kit for this carburetor. They couldn't find any "numbers" on it . The little barcode on the side is just showing it is a rebuilt carb. The guy at AZ said he couldnt tell me what kit to buy unless he has "numbers". I have no idea if this carb is original rebuilt or a different rebuilt carb. Does anyone know? What shall I do without numbers? LOL! The guy at AZ also tells me that dying at idle signifies that the carb has a bad float. Guess what. The float is sold seperate and costs 8 bucks. I am going to screw the idle up a bit and see if that works until I hear from someone. I am flat broke, so a new carburetor is out of the question. Thanks again for your help and see enclosed picture for identifying this thing.

DSC04683.JPG

[BobbyFord]

Autolite 2100 carburetor.
There is a number on the side of the float bowl, behind the accelerator pump rod that indicates CFM.
Stamped No = CFM
.98=190
1.01=240
1.02=245
1.08=287
1.14=300
1.21=351
1.23=356
1.33=424

[cep62]

When it wont idle and the mixture screws wont fix it ,try taking them out and spraying carb cleaner in the holes. Then put the screws all the way in, then back them out 1 and1/2 turns .
See if it starts and then you can fine tune it from there.

Sometimes there's a bit of crud in the idle passage.

[72bumbee]

OKAY, I knew the carburetor had to have some identification. the auto zone guy was uneducated. I will take a gander at it and find its numbers. But before rebuilding, I will try the mixture screw trick. I would love to not spend any money!
Thanks again guys!
Steve

[72bumbee]

actually got ot to not die at a stop sign by running the mix screws all the way down,backing off 1 and a half turns then cranking the idle screw down also and slowly opening it up until it ran. Still seems very rough at a stop, but not dying. Took it on the road and hit 60 MPH just trying to blow all the goop out if there is any. Like I said, it sounds rough but not dying. should I go ahead with the cleaner in the screw holes or just plan on a rebuild?

[BobbyFord]

Also, check all other tune-up items: plugs, points, cap & rotor, timing, etc.

[72bumbee]

I have never done a distributor that I can recall. Any special instructions? I know where all the stuff is but Iwant to make sure I don't bend or break stuff.

[72bumbee]

BTW. Put new plugs in when I did the coil. so the distributor cap points and rotor and plug wires all are old

[72bumbee]

Also, I would love to see a picture of your 63 unibody.

[70_F100]

Actually, it sounds like the power valve may be your issue. Are you getting a very rich mixture (black smoke) at idle?

Just go to NAPA.

Carb kit is P/N MPF 3586 ($15.99)
Float (ALWAYS REPLACE!!!) P/N is MPF 3FL13 ($5.29)

Carb kit comes with power valve, by the way.

Hope this helps!!!

[Sam I Am]

Whenever you turn the idle screws in all the way, turn them slowly with a light touch. DO NOT torque them down or it can flatten the pointy tips and mess up how they work once you turn them back to where they are supposed to be.
If you have some carb cleaner, go ahead and take the idle screws out to make sure they aren't flattened and squirt some carb cleaner in the holes.

I think the ragged sound at idle is a sign that you need to do an ignition tune-up.
You will probably be amazed at how much better it runs.

And don't take this the wrong way, but how can you afford to drive it at 60 if you are broke? Do you get free gas?
The money you spend on tune-up parts will come back to you down the road in the form of fuel mileage improvement.