Quicker Hot Starting

[FordTruck]

Is there any tricks that I can do to help truck start a little faster after it gets hot? When its cold it'll pop off no problem but when it gets hot it takes more cranking and I'm afraid its gonna kill my starter or battery. Any ideas??

[fordman]

change the timing so that it starts when it is hot and when its cold both.

[V Majestyk]

With no idea what you've got for carb/motor,I'll assume[ there's THAT word] stock. Those old Autolite/Motorcraft 2BBL's were picky for choke settings. If yours had the heater hose that ran thru a sheetmetal holder past the closer spring, sometimes that hose will clog or kink. That will keep your choke from opening far enough, fast enough. I've had that issue on two trucks. Once it's right, life is good. Mine fires so quick,all I have to do is bump the key,hot or cold......although cold is never REALLY cold in Tucson.

[FordTruck]

change the timing so that it starts when it is hot and when its cold both.

What degree would you set it at?? I think I've got it a little advanced I can't rember me and dad did some timing work awhile ago.

With no idea what you've got for carb/motor,I'll assume[ there's THAT word] stock

Its pretty much a stock 302/C6 combo. All I've done to it is changed the air filter and valve covers. I'll look and see what my choke hook up looks like.

[Sam I Am]

Try cracking open the throttle just before you hit the starter.
Don't pump it or you will flood it, just push the pedal down about an inch and a half and see if that makes a difference.

[knightfire83]

Back when I was running the Autolite 2100, the fuel would boil in the float bowl after driving it around a while. When you shut it off the fuel would boil out the venturies and down into the intake. Try and start it hot and it would be flooded unless you hold the pedal to the floor when cranking. It would cough and sputter until it burnt off all the extra gas, it was a pain in the butt.

The fix was to get rid of the metal spacer in between the carb and intake. Replaced it with a 2" phenolic spacer from a 84-85 Bronco and two thick base gaskets on each side of that. This eliminated the heat transfer from the intake to carb. No more boiling, no more flooding. The thing would start up fine after that.

I need to find another spacer for the Edelbrock that I'm running now as it does the same thing, just not as bad.

Had been reading on the net that today's fuel formulations have a lower boiling point, especially the ethanol blends.

Something to think about.

[montana_hiboy]

The previous two replies are spot on, your excessive cranking when the motor's hot is most likely due to the fuel boiling off, a phelonic carb spacer will cure this, giving the gas about 1/4 pedal while cranking works for me too.