Carb & Cooling Question

[72bumbee]

While working on my 72 F250..... I had started it to let it idle a bit while I was cleaning gunk from the grill. Leaning on the top of the radiator, thinking to myself... "when it warms up, I will feel the hot water come into the radiator, and will move my arm."
WHen the thermostat opened, I heard bubbling noises and then a small backfire. The engine then started to sound like it was idling rough, and backfiring even more. Then with one giant backfire, it died. I crawled up to look down the carb for signs of fire, then went to re-start the motor. It re-started eventually with a lot of cranking, backfireing, and acceleration. I haven't taken it out and driven it yet, but have duplicated this scenario several times since. Wondering if the cooling system is alright, or the carb for that matter. I amnot driving it because I am leaking tranny fluid from the front plate behind the engine and want to get it rebuilt before melting the whole thing. Just curious as to where I should start, and not really wanting to tow it home from the tranny shop, as I am going to be towing it in to the tranny shop. Any suggestions would be helpful. A guy from work told me to dump "seafoam" carb cleaner into the tank and see if that helps???
Thanks again
Steve

[fordman]

i would start it up and when the water starts to circulate check and see if there are any large bubbles coming out of the water in the radiator. the backfiring could be many things. does it backfire out of the exhaust or the carb? the fluid leaking out the front means the trans needs a front seal put in it. that can be done by pulling the trans out removing the torque converter and replacing the seal.

[72bumbee]

The back firing is coming from the exhaust pipe. and blowing black carbon all over the ground it looks like.
I have a date with the transmission guy this week. Also, for what it is worth, I can't even get the dern thing to turn over now. Just cranking away running the battery down. I am at a loss. I guess this is the tough part of owning a "classic" HAHA! Sure wish I would have kept my old '67

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

try a new radiator cap. sounds like you're boiling

[fordman]

try jump starting it. backfiring out of the exhaust is too far advanced on the timing. i think thats right. while the battery is charging check this. pop the dist cap off. and hand turn the crank shaft. check to see that the rotor is turning when you turn the crank shaft. after that if it is turning you will want to turn the crank to zero on the timing marks on the crank damper. then check to see if the rotor is pointing at number one cylinder number one is about 12:00 on the dist. its just past the dist cap clamp on the rear of the dist. if the rotor is pointing about 6:00 or close to it turn the crank over one more time back to zero. and then check the rotor position. if it isnt pretty close to the numebr one postion. in either try. then therer could be something further to check. if all is good put the cap back on and crank the enigne over and check for spark going to the spark plugs. that should give you a answer somewhere in this process of what more to look at.

[72bumbee]

I am working with limited time, and beginning to think I am out of my league. I printed out your previous recommendations.
First I popped all the spark plugs out and they were black and gooey and reeked of gas. I ran down to auto zone, bought 8 more spark plugs. I put all eight of them in without setting the gap on any of them. I then popped the distributor cap off and hand turned the crank, checked that the rotor was indeed pointing in the general direction of the back cap clip or "one-o-clock". So now I hop in and give it a few cranks. No Go. I then pull out the front plug on the passenger side of the engine and have my wife crank it a few times so I can see if there is a spark flying between the gap. Nothing. I am holding it by the plug wire not touching any part of the truck. It was dusk, so I should have seen it pretty well if it had been there I suppose. SO here I sit trying to not feel too stupid. I just can't believe this has me so stumped.
Its been years since I have been so involved in auto repair, so I apologize for my ignorance. Seems I have forgotten a lot!

[fordman]

you grounded the spark plug to the block when you were checking ofr spark didnt you? if you didnt you need to. if you did then it may need points and a condensor. or maybe the ground for the condensor went bad. or the points are dirty and just need a quick swipe with the wifes fingernail file. if all of that looks good or has been replaced. you should verify that thier is power to the coil from the red wire. if it isnt there then the resistor wire might have burned in half on it or the power from the swithc to the wire isnt getting to it. the wet plugs means its gettign gas and maybe floded also. you can remove all of the plugs and crank it over to get the extra fuel out of the cylinders. i also want to make sure you got the plug wires back on in the correct order when you changed the plugs.

[72bumbee]

Thanks a ton!
I replaced the coil and varoom!
Purring like a kitten again. First time I have encountered an electrical item that took so long to die... Weird to me.
I guess I should remove the plugs and set the proper gap on them and then get the timing dialed in? Whatcha think?
Steve

[fordman]

well i dont usually change my plugs. i just clean them when mine is running bad. i have never had a bad plug. i would have checked for fuel and spark and chased it down. a bad coil though is sometimes hard to figure out if it is going out and doesnt just quit. i am glad it worked out though.