1970 302 valve adjustment

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towtruckerfour
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1970 302 valve adjustment

Post by towtruckerfour »

I was wondering if anyone knows a simple way to adjust valves? I remember my dad had an extra set of covers he used to do adjustments but I can't remember how he did it. The truck runs like a champ but has a little bit of a tick. I was thinking maybe it might possibly need an adjustment.It has never been adjusted since I put the motor in years ago. I did a search and found that 360's don't have adjustments but not much on 302's. Thanks for the help.
Troy
Why is it that the trucks are always the best running vehicles in the family?
Ford means "found on road daily"
70 F100 Custom-352 w/68 Highboy 4x4 frame. My play/project truck
70 F250 Explorer-390/C6 auto. My work truck
04 Mitsubishi montero-family car
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lee_ford
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Re: 1970 302 valve adjustment

Post by lee_ford »

Here is quick and simple explanation of doing it with the motor not running and no need for extra cut down valve covers.

Quote from … http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/valveadj.html

Pick a cylinder.
Bump the motor until the Exhaust valve starts up. Intake is now on base circle.
Loosen the intake lock nut.
WAIT a minute or so, to let the plunger relax.
Twirl intake pushrod between thumb and forefinger (hold gently) and tighten the lock nut until you feel the pushrod stop turning. A little practice is all it takes. You will know - it stops right away, unless you are turning it with pliers. This is zero lash.
Tighten locknut 1/2 turn.
Bump the motor until the Intake is almost down. Exhaust is now on base circle.
Loosen the exhaust lock nut.
WAIT a minute or so, to let the plunger relax.
Twirl exhaust pushrod between thumb and forefinger (hold gently) , etc...
Tighten locknut 1/2 turn.
Repeat as necessary.

If you go 1 cylinder at a time, you won't screw up or get confused or need a checklist. There IS a faster way - use it between rounds at the races, or to save time on the dyno. You have the time, go slow and you won't have to second guess after you put the valve covers on.

End quote.

The reason for your dads extra cut down valve covers is so he could do this with the motor running. When running the oil to lube the rockers comes up the push rod and out the small hole in that end of the rocker and can make a mess. They make clips to put on the rockers to stop this mess.

I just pull my covers, fire the motor, do the adjustments and kill motor. I make a little mess, but it will clean up. Plus on a motor with a strong oil pump, you will have oil coming out and over the cut down covers anyway.
My 1969 F100 Gallery
[Please note: A lot of what I write may be common knowledge to some of us. But for a new comer and even us at one time, somebody had to inform us that FIRST time.]
towtruckerfour
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Re: 1970 302 valve adjustment

Post by towtruckerfour »

Thanks for the info Lee_Ford. That sounds fairly easy. I can remember my dad doing it with the motor running but that was a long time ago. I was just thinking the tapping I could hear might mean the valves might need an adjustment since they have never been.
Troy
Why is it that the trucks are always the best running vehicles in the family?
Ford means "found on road daily"
70 F100 Custom-352 w/68 Highboy 4x4 frame. My play/project truck
70 F250 Explorer-390/C6 auto. My work truck
04 Mitsubishi montero-family car
User avatar
lee_ford
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Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2006 1:43 am
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Re: 1970 302 valve adjustment

Post by lee_ford »

Before doing any adjustments, you should try turning all the push rods. If one of them is loose when it is on its base circle, then that is when you start looking for why.

Try adjusting it first. If after tightening it the 1/2 turn you notice the valve being pushed open, wait a few minutes. If the lifter depresses and the valve closes then you are ok. If on the other hand the valve stays open for more than 5 minutes then that lifter may be bad. This will mean pulling the intake and that lifter. Take that lifter apart and clean it GOOD. Be sure all small openings (Oil Ports) are clean.

While you have the valve covers off, do a thorough visual inspection of everything. If you want to go a step further then pull all the rockers and each push rod (one at a time) and check for a bent push rod. Also inspect each rocker for excessive wear. Look at the point where the push rod cup in the rocker is and below the adjustment nut pivot. Wear at either point can cause a loose condition which will cause a ticking sound.
My 1969 F100 Gallery
[Please note: A lot of what I write may be common knowledge to some of us. But for a new comer and even us at one time, somebody had to inform us that FIRST time.]
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