1969 Ford Crew Cab / Cummins Project

[HRDROKN]

Anyone know what the stroke length is on the clutch master cylinder on the 94-98 Dodge.... working on mounting one in my 69 Ford and want to make sure that I'm not shorting myself. It feels like the master has an internal spring as I was not able to compress it on my first attempt (I will try again)? If so I can chuck my pedal spring.....

[HRDROKN]

Anyone know what the stroke length is on the clutch master cylinder on the 94-98 Dodge.... working on mounting one in my 69 Ford and want to make sure that I'm not shorting myself. It feels like the master has an internal spring as I was not able to compress it on my first attempt (I will try again)? If so I can chuck my pedal spring.....

Here is what I came up with so far...

It looks like the stroke is about 1.500" and certainly not more than 2.000" max.

Made this mount plate... fits the cylinder tight.


Cylinder attached...


Hole through the fire wall is 90 degrees rotated.... so that cylinder can not turn on the mounting plate and come loose.




Look from the inside....



So what do you all think?????

[carcrafter22]

Looks good. Nice work.

[averagef250]

That looks like it's really low on the pedal. How does the pedal feel? Seams clutch masters usually mount about 3" from the pivot.

[HRDROKN]

That looks like it's really low on the pedal. How does the pedal feel? Seams clutch masters usually mount about 3" from the pivot.

Dustin.... I was afraid of that! I'm about 4 inches from pivot..... I'll have to look at raising it. I found out now that the Dodge is about 2.5" from pivot!

In the period of time before I received this info....

I decided it wasn't strong enough.... I found that I can add another plate about 3/16th of an inch behind the first plate that I made. Cool thing is that is within a 32nd of what my firewall thickness is with the line-X...

You can see the diameter that has the webing... this is my target area.



This is the plate that I made to fit.... it is cut to fit the webing and get down to the OD for support and it is not quite finished yet as you can see that one half is a little different than the other...



Here is the fit..... kinda hard to see.




These two plates will now sandwich the firewall.... the webing solves my problem of the MC rotating.





Next I will look at adding a strut to the column or other solid area.... after I look at raising it.

[HRDROKN]

Dustin, that 3 inch mount point from pivot..... what is the total peddle length on that???

EDIT: I need to stop this non-educated guessing.... LOL. I will drop the short block in with bellhousing and clutch on Tuesday, then I can determine how much mechanical advantage I've lost and whether I can live with it.

Mark

[Ranchero50]

Mark, be careful, the stock ford hydraulic stuff really deflected the firewall. I had to add another rib to help support the load and I added a thick backer plate... PITA.

Jamie

[averagef250]

I have no added backer in my '71. I bolted the clutch master directly to the firewall without issue. The firewall doesn't move a bit with clutch actuation. I didn't even use the backing plate that the 80's and 90's Fords use.

Not disagreeing with you Jamie, moreso curious why we have such different results from the same thing.

Mark, master location and travel is pretty critical. 1/8" one way or the other and it won't feel right. I try to exactly mimic the OE application for the master I'm using. Be very careful not to bottom the master, this will destroy it in use.

Also, there are plenty of different bore aftermarket clutch masters out there that are much easier to mount than the late model dodge stuff. They're made for racing applications and much better built than OE stuff. I like the OE ford clutch masters, they're easy to mount with studs and nuts, but the twist and lock dodge thing is time consuming.

[HRDROKN]

I have no added backer in my '71. I bolted the clutch master directly to the firewall without issue. The firewall doesn't move a bit with clutch actuation. I didn't even use the backing plate that the 80's and 90's Fords use.

Not disagreeing with you Jamie, moreso curious why we have such different results from the same thing.

Mark, master location and travel is pretty critical. 1/8" one way or the other and it won't feel right. I try to exactly mimic the OE application for the master I'm using. Be very careful not to bottom the master, this will destroy it in use.

Also, there are plenty of different bore aftermarket clutch masters out there that are much easier to mount than the late model dodge stuff. They're made for racing applications and much better built than OE stuff. I like the OE ford clutch masters, they're easy to mount with studs and nuts, but the twist and lock dodge thing is time consuming.

That is some good info... as usual! I will not get too carried away with the direction I started. I will get the motor and clutch in and test what I have first, then decide where I need to go.

Do you have any links or part numbers of MC's that might be a better fit?

[HRDROKN]

Was going to drop the short block in today, but decided that now would be a good time to get the coilover hoops in place!

A couple of issues did come up...

Clearance for the steering box.... I will cut that tab off and use a .500" spacer. That should give me enough room.


Deciding how I want to do this....


Results....







Besides the steering box clearance.... the other issue is whether or not these hoops will interfere with my twins? Might have to run a big single....

[averagef250]

Might be tight for twins with those. There's always room somewhere though. Carcrafter managed his Isuzu with H-boost and steering in the way, anything's possible.

[HRDROKN]

Ok, so here is the deal.... the coilover hoops really aren't my problem as I can get the compressor piped up and over and around...





The problem is the exhaust of the primary turbo on the bottom. If I run a 2nd gen exhaust manifold that center mounts the top turbo, then the exhaust outlet on the bottom is about 3 inches from the adapter plate....





Soooooo................

[HRDROKN]

The thought is if I could move the whole assembly forward. Then I may have enough room for 5" downpipe.. I also discovered that the 3rd gen hotpipe is way more compact then that 2nd ge pipe that I have! Looks like it's time to break out the sawsall....







Then my filter is in the way..... remote filter in the works?

[HRDROKN]

So while I consider all that.... I got the transmission just about all back together... Also looking into a custom adapter (spool piece) to tie that NV4500 with the NP205. I think it will be the cleanest approach.... other than Dustins suggestion on re-splining a shaft.

[HRDROKN]

Even though it was a day spent with the little woman...... she went to the store and I ran into the garage and installed the clutch! ....

Yep, I got busted under the truck when she returned.... and got the Honey, you said.... blablablabla.... time with me speach.