carb question
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carb question
well, truck starts, but im still getting fuel squirtin through the top, ive changed needles, tried diffeent floats, adjusted them, am i simply getting too much fuel pressure, any way to slow it down..im starting to wonder, on the new carb, where u instal the fuel line. new one was smaller, so i had to move the metal fuel line back a little and install a inline fuel filter, it attaches to carb and about 7 inches of fuel hose, could this cause abnormal operation causing it to squirt upwards, wouldnt it level out no matter what pressure is coming from the fuel pump at the carb or quick fixes. im looking for a fitting so i can attach the metal fuel line directly to the carb.
- SteveC
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Re: carb question
might check to see if the little metal clip that holds the float down is fastened properly
I don't really care about brands Chevy Ford Dodge ...as long as it doesn't sound like two old dudes farting in a coffee can.
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1967 f-100 4x4
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http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u223/imabaka70/ Projects listed on the left side
WOOOT!! i passed my mechanics classes. Now working as a mechanic and waiting to go for my ASE certifications.
1967 f-100 4x4
1969/72 f100 351w EFI m5r2 5 speed
1988 ford f150 xlt lariat
1961 VW Beetle (wifes car)
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Re: carb question
Mechanical fuel pumps usually put out any where from 3-8psi, i'm not sure which carb you're running but edelbrocks don't like much more than 5psi, maybe a fuel pressure regulator will help your case, Napa usually stocks a universal regulator by Mr. Gasket for 25 bucks.
Jim
'75 Ford Highboy 390 4spd
'75 Ford Highboy 390 4spd
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Re: carb question
i am not trying to be mean but here is the complete answers to your problem. unless you have some sort of high flow electric fuel pump. http://www.fordification.com/forum/post ... 3&p=378318
or this http://www.futurefordofsacramento.com/s ... fm?ID=1902
BobbyFord wrote:The retainer clip (shaped like this [..) to the left of the brass float pivot rod must be pushed down into the groove at the top of the needle seat. That is why you have fuel leaking out the top.
or this http://www.futurefordofsacramento.com/s ... fm?ID=1902
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Re: carb question
fordman wrote:i am not trying to be mean but here is the complete answers to your problem. unless you have some sort of high flow electric fuel pump. http://www.fordification.com/forum/post ... 3&p=378318BobbyFord wrote:The retainer clip (shaped like this [..) to the left of the brass float pivot rod must be pushed down into the groove at the top of the needle seat. That is why you have fuel leaking out the top.
or this http://www.futurefordofsacramento.com/s ... fm?ID=1902
CLIP IS ON,
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Re: carb question
It might help if we knew what kind of carburetor you have.
Regardless, you don't have too much fuel pressure. Your problem is simply that the incoming flow of fuel isn't being shut off when it's supposed to. That can be caused by a number of things, which you'll have to investigate to determine which it is:
1) Damaged and/or dirty (or incorrect) needle valve and/or seat
2) Float not properly attached to the needle valve (via the metal clip - pictured below)
3) Improper float setting
4) Damaged floats - (fuel inside, weighing them down)
Regardless, you don't have too much fuel pressure. Your problem is simply that the incoming flow of fuel isn't being shut off when it's supposed to. That can be caused by a number of things, which you'll have to investigate to determine which it is:
1) Damaged and/or dirty (or incorrect) needle valve and/or seat
2) Float not properly attached to the needle valve (via the metal clip - pictured below)
3) Improper float setting
4) Damaged floats - (fuel inside, weighing them down)
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'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
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-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
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Re: carb question
FORDification wrote:It might help if we knew what kind of carburetor you have.
Regardless, you don't have too much fuel pressure. Your problem is simply that the incoming flow of fuel isn't being shut off when it's supposed to. That can be caused by a number of things, which you'll have to investigate to determine which it is:
1) Damaged and/or dirty (or incorrect) needle valve and/or seat
2) Float not properly attached to the needle valve (via the metal clip - pictured below)
3) Improper float setting
4) Damaged floats - (fuel inside, weighing them down)
yeah i didnt have a anti splash washer, maybe that is it, there was a washer i put under the unit that that hold the needle valve, i didnt know or have seen one that goes in top.
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Re: carb question
I DONT HAVE A antisplash washer, can i used any washer
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Re: carb question
it is funny. my carb or carb kit does not include or talk abotu any kind of wierd anti splash washer either. maybe you bought the wrong kit. i am sure there are different kits for different carbs and years of carbs. this is where it becaomes important to always post int he same thread as the first problem thread. now i have toi ask and you have to answer all over again.
did you buy a new kit for this carb?
didn't i remember you putting parts from one carb into another carb? to fix something or steal parts?
what is the numbers from your carb tag?
what part number is the kit you are using?
didn't you use the new needle and seat from the kit?
did you use and cleaning materials on the carb when you started messing with this?
did you replace everything that came witht he carb kit? needle and seat?
did you buy a new kit for this carb?
didn't i remember you putting parts from one carb into another carb? to fix something or steal parts?
what is the numbers from your carb tag?
what part number is the kit you are using?
didn't you use the new needle and seat from the kit?
did you use and cleaning materials on the carb when you started messing with this?
did you replace everything that came witht he carb kit? needle and seat?
- sideoilerfe
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Re: carb question
The kit i recently bought for my 68 F250 w/ the 360 and Autolite carburetor had extra parts inside for different model carbs. Did you use the correct top gasket? My kit came with 2. What about the check ball? The Autolite carbs are simple carbs indeed. I was more familiar with Holleys and as this was my first Autolite rebuild, I was surprised how simple they actually were. So far so good.
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1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!
1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!