MLJJONES67 PROJECT CUMMINS put away for winter

[averagef250]

Yes.

[mljjones67]

Awesome! Are they easy to rebuild if needed?

[mljjones67]

Here is a pic of a guy cutting down his crossmember. And another bracing it.

[HRDROKN]

Now that is getting into your work! Almost couldn't see you.... it was the Ford camo gear you had on!

Lookin good!

[mljjones67]

HRDrkn that's actually not me. It is a pic I found on the net. I will be doing the same to my crossmember.

Question: I may have asked this before but. Since my thrust bearing is bad and I need to replace it should I replace all the rod bearings or just check to see if they are ok? Or should i just replace for the sake of being safe? Now if I do replace how do I go about ordering the right bearings and where is a good place to get them? The place I was going to get them from in SLC is out of business. Sorry for the rambling Q's

[averagef250]

Many argue mains should be replaced as a set, I don't think it matters myself. Rods don't matter. I buy from quality diesel parts here in portland. Last 6B main set I bought was like $45. I think Cummins wants $65 for just the thrust bearing so I went for the set.

[mljjones67]

Well I have decided to remove the head to make it easier on the engine stand. What is the best way to take it off? I know the injection lines need to come off. But after that whats next? I would like to keep the head intact as possible.

Thanks

[averagef250]

You can leave the valves in it, everything else has to come off. The head bolts go through the rocker stands.

[mljjones67]

Not much of an update. But i did get the head off. Pretty simple.







New rust free inner fenders.


Not sure what this was used for but it was attached to the passenger fender.

[mljjones67]

Anyone know what this cover is for?

[averagef250]

the non-commonrail engines used in didges had insulating pads on thier pushrod covers. The CR engines don't have pushrod covers. The first gen didge motors also had two layer oil pans to help reduce noise as well.

[mljjones67]

Do i need it? If not I will get rid of it. Thanks for the info.

[mljjones67]

Question.
Now that the head is off I would like to clean the pistons. What would be the best method to do this with them in the block? I am worried about leaving a chunk in there and scarring up the cylinder walls. The cylinder walls still have the cross hatches on them. And there are no ridges at the top like on a well worn gas engine. Also I almost have the old gear case off. I am down to the VE pump gear and the cam. Do i need to remove the whole cam shaft or can I just remove the gear to swap the gear case? It looks pressed on with a key way. If I have to take it out how do I keep the tappets in place? Thanks for your help guys.
Also
What is everyone use in there parts cleaner? I need to start cleaning some parts off the cummins so I can get it back together.

[averagef250]

Pull the cam as a whole. Eithe use 12 spring clamps to hold the lifters up or turn the engine upside down. Remove the lift pump first as well!

Odds are pretty good you'll get crap around the pistons if you try to clean the tops in the motor. If you must gasket remover works well. Ideally pull them and soak them in cold parts cleaner for a day.

Mineral spirits is a great solvent that cleans well and lasts when filtered.

[mljjones67]

Thanks Dustin as always a big help!! I think I will pull one piston at a time and soak them like you suggest. Can i pull them out the top? Or do i need to pull the crank out and pull them through the bottom? Thanks again!!1