Truck won't start???

[customcamper]

Hey guys....I took my son 70cs and pulled the interior out to have it repainted...did all the body work, changed the starter ( the old one was hanging up once and a while) and went to start it and it wont start. It just clicks...I have not check the new starter yet, but would assume thats not it. There is a relay under the passenger side horn by the radiator that is clicking,....anyone konw what the is and is it related to the starter?? I aslo changed the starter silnoid. Help.....Dave...P.S......I checked under the dash and no grounds or anything else is loose...just removed wiper...headlight.swithces heater controls ect.

[fordman]

under the horn is the regulator. the starter relay is on the side of the fender. i think i have heard of that clciking before but i can't remember what the reason why it did that. the start circut of course is the starter the starter relay and the battery. if there is a loose connection or dirty in that loop then it will clickthe starter relay. if the battery is dead it will click the starter relay. if the starter is frozen or not enough power to it the starter relay will click. try tapping onto of the starter relay with a junp start. and you can even tap on the starter when you try turning it over. that can sometime jolt it to start turning. it could be something to do with the relay clicking so someone who knows will have to explain that part. i forgot exactly what the reason why it does that. something about cross connections feedback or something else.

[Alvin in AZ]

x2 what Fordman said. :)

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDeta ... Code=3389B
AutoZone doesn't sell multi-meters anymore? :(

There's two ways to figure out what's wrong.
Guess and swap out parts until it works, not ever really knowing what was wrong to start with.
Use a meter and catch the trouble while it's still acting up and figure out what it is and fix it.
The second method, many times, requires no buying of parts, just cleaning of a connection(s).
Many times it's not the dirtiest looking connection either! :)

The way to go about this is simple, anybody got any ideas jump in here. :)

Take a reading on the battery first thing, dig the leads into the posts don't take reading off
the clamps (yet;).
Voltage low?
Get a new battery or take it out and charge the battery or get a jump and start the sucker
up and charge your battery that way. :)

Voltage ok?
Either way...
Have a helper try starting it while you watch the meter. :)
The voltage should go down to ~11 volts and the starter should sound strong.
If the voltage goes down to zero or real low your battery is weak.
If the voltage doesn't go down at all and the starter doesn't work you've got an "open" circuit.

"Opens" are easy to find with a meter, just "box it in" by finding where the voltage is and isn't.

I'm the guy that shows up quick if you're broke down, it's what I do, I'm retired. :)
Many times the trouble has been the little clamp on the replacement type battery clamp is open.
Oh, it looks clean enough, but won't carry the high current the starter needs.

I've seen guys and gals clean the big clamps' connections and it still won't start.
I show up with my silly little meter and show them it's the little clamp, BTDT a half dozen times. :)
The battery voltage remains high on one side of the connection and is dead zero or close to it on
the other side of the connection -when the starter relay is energized-.

Alvin in AZ (retired RR signal-ape)

[rjewkes]

I have had the starter to seliniod wire ground to the side of the starter before. the metal part that slides over the stud on the starter.

[Alvin in AZ]

I have had the starter to {starter relay;} wire ground to the side of the starter before.
the metal part that slides over the stud on the starter.

Wow, that's cool you mentioned that. LOL :)

The one I happen to have on my pickup now I got from AutoZone and it was that way
when I bought it! :) You know? I figure that wasn't no accident neither. ;) They put
the thin sheet metal cover on, in such a way, it would throw sparks and spook a guy
for the fun it, is what I'm figuring. ;) Kinda funny trick, is one way to look at it?

I spoiled their fun, I took the sucker apart (of course!) and realized it was that way.
It had brand new brushes in it and new starter drive too, so kept it. My original was still
working fine and is on the shelf, took it off at ~165k miles when I had the engine rebuilt.
It's easy to see its brushes are shorter, but that's it. :) Cleaned up, bearing greased and
ready to put back on.

Good stuff them Ford "solenoid-less" starters! :)
"Positive Engagement Starter" is what Ford calls 'em. ;)
When did they start using those?
And did certain bump-sides come with "solenoid engagement type" starters?

Alvin in AZ

[Thunderfoot]

That clicking of the Voltage Regulator is usually a sign of a bad ground connection to the motor, as it is trying to ground through the VR... Check and clean the battery ground cable where it connects to the engine block and also the engine to firewall ground connection. Plus, clean the fender under the starter solenoid bolts, as the solenoid grounds to the fender through the mount, so if it is not grounded good the solenoid will not work.

[customcamper]

Thanks for you help...when it gets back from the paint shop...I try it again!!!!