look! no points!

[Kurt Combs]

Well I bit the bullet and bought a points replacement kit from Kragen, not my favorite store, but they had it in stock. To my surprise I was able to keep the resistor in my ignition wiring and everything bolted right on. The only real change was I had to cut off the original push on electrical connector at the coil to get all the wires to fit. I replaced the push on connector with a circular wire end (don't know the name of them). Any way, this thing has been hard starting for a long time. I changed the points, condensor, cap and rotor. Never any change. I would have to pump the gas and restart it three times before it would continue to run when cold. Well now it starts right up the first crank and keeps running. It is amazing! I should have done this a long time ago. I can't wait to see if it has cured my hot starting problem.

[Fordlorn]

Cool I'll have look into that. I just got my heads back today so I'll have mine running in the next few days. I want to do what I can to update the mechanicals without changing how the engine looks. How much was it?

[binder56jd]

points suk---u will think u have a different truk

[drytoast]

What kind did you get and do you have the part number? thanks in advance. todd

[binder56jd]

i don't know what Kurt got but here is a good unit

http://www.vintageperformance.com/retro ... rsions.htm

[Supermike]

Glad to hear this went well for you.... I've been having a similar problem. I just dropped a nice dime on the PertronixII, FlamethrowerII coil, and Flamethrower plug wires... plan to pick up some platinum plugs. Just waiting for them to get here now.

Let us know if it fixed your warm starts, too!

[Alvin in AZ]

Glad to hear it, Kurt. :)

I believe over the years (34+) the Ford Dura Spark system on
my '75 F150 was one of the best things on it for saving me
time and money and headache. :) And I like points about as
much as anybody, BTW. :)

I replaced my white plastic clip-on-cRap with "ring" eyelets too,
when I had the chance to buy a new Standard Motor Products
coil with threaded terminals. Doggonit I tried to get a part
number for that coil a couple times in the past and can't get
it, all the data bases aren't set up that way anymore! :/

Alvin in AZ

[D.J. Wyman]

I have put Pertronix on all of my FE engines. That to me is the only way to go. Just under $85.00 never change points again. (i do however keep the points and condenser in the glove box just in case...

[Alvin in AZ]

Yeah, carrying the points is cool, they ain't heavy. ;)

I just got a new Standard Motor Products module for me Dura-Spark (first generation)
and carry the old one. The old one was a Blue-Streak made by SMP too, put it on in '79
when I ruined the original taking the battery clamp off while it was running. It didn't
"kill" it, just made it weak and act funny. The first generation type will make you think
the coil's bypass resistor is open or "intermittent open".

The dangged thing acted like that about 10 times in a row one day last year so got a
new one. (starts and "runs" fine, let off the starter circuit and it dies)

Even with that messed up module...
My '75 F150 360FE T18 has never broke down and left me stranded anywhere, ever! :)

Alvin in AZ
ps- Was trying to nurse a bad battery along because of tight money (~$25 back then)
and ended up paying $109+tax for a module instead! LOL :)

[Happy_Camper]

Last week I ordered the Pertronix II and the Flame Thrower II coil through Amazon for just under $123.00 delivered. Which seemed like a good deal. The down side is that along with points and condensor, I'll need to keep a ballast resistor and the old coil with me (for the "Just in case"). Think I'll wrap it all up in a piece of oil cloth and keep the package in the bed box.
I am looking forward to seeing what kind of difference this will make in the 390. It's the first time I will have used the Pertronix II and FTII. Should be fun!

[Happy_Camper]

Got the install done this weekend. It was pretty simple. I did a complete tuneup at the same time, so I can't say whether or not the P-II made a difference.
Found out the old 390 has a couple of valves leaking a bit on the compression test, and the base timing *was* set to zero.
After the tuneup the truck runs with much more authority.
Installed a tach at the same time, and interupted the R-G wire at the ignition switch, fabricated a short harness with both IGN+ and Tach signal wires, and ran them both out to the coil.
I pulled the "I" terminal at the solenoid, and original coil+ off and packed them with dielectric grease. Packed up the points, condensor & original coil and stuck them in the bed box. If I have to swap back, it's just a matter of unplugging the Coil+ lead added for the P-II, replacing the parts, then hooking up the stock wires to the coil and solenoid.

[Supermike]

Glad to hear your installation went well! We did almost the same thing, and I had pretty similar results... though I'm not sure how much to attribute to the pertronix and how much to give to the new coil, plugs, plug wires, dist. cap and rotor, etc. I didn't install a tach like you did, though... would like to, I just don't know if I want one hooked up to my column right now.

Good idea on plugging up the old terminals with dielectric grease... I'll have to do that on mine, too. I also left the "I" terminal hooked up to the solenoid, as I wasn't sure if anything else needed it. I don't suppose it's hurting anything to leave it hooked up, though...

[Happy_Camper]

Yeah the tach is more for *fun*, since I have an automatic, and drive like a really old farmer. I had it, and wanted to see what kind of rpms the engine turns at freeway speeds. With the exception of the ground lead, the whole thing is plug and play (bullet connectors ). One thing I learned is that pushing the truck past about 3k rpms, is pretty much like spitting in the wind. Not much good comes of it. I think I'm going to see if it has a "16 cylinder position", so that it looks like I'm really doing something exciting Woo Hoo!
After getting beat by a little old lady in a walker, I need something to "man up" with...

Pulling the lead off at the "I" terminal of the solenoid is a "just in case" thing. The only reason I pulled it off, is incase the stock coil plug shorts to the block (would have to be a very freakish thing to have happen). There is no fuse between the "I" terminal, and where the brown wire connects to the coil + lead. With it pulled off, there's no worry. The resistor wire is still hot, but would puke it's guts without much external damage if there was a short of any real current carrying capability.

[Supermike]

Yeah the tach is more for *fun*, since I have an automatic, and drive like a really old farmer.

Haha! Sounds very familiar...

Pulling the lead off at the "I" terminal of the solenoid is a "just in case" thing. The only reason I pulled it off, is incase the stock coil plug shorts to the block (would have to be a very freakish thing to have happen). There is no fuse between the "I" terminal, and where the brown wire connects to the coil + lead. With it pulled off, there's no worry. The resistor wire is still hot, but would puke it's guts without much external damage if there was a short of any real current carrying capability.

Really not a bad idea... only thing for me is that mine are so dirty, I'm not sure which one to pull off... LOL! I'm thinking it's probably best not to have that resistor wire sitting there hot under the dash like that if it doesn't have to be.... since I spliced out the red/green wire at the ignition, then unplugging the "I" wire should essentially make it go cold, right? At least, in the 67 it should. Otherwise, where would the resistor wire be getting juice?

Of course, if I unplug the brown wire at the solenoid, are my temp and pressure gauges going to be affected?