How can engines be protected from air moisture in storage?
Moderators: Ranchero50, DuckRyder
- robroy
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 3768
- Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2008 4:36 pm
- Location: California, Salinas
Re: How can engines be protected from air moisture in storage?
Hey guys, thanks for the excellent advice on keeping my engine safe!
Today I went to the site and checked it out, and it looked a lot better than my overly active imagination had made it out to be.
Thankfully, there seemed to be zero actual moisture under the tarps; it was bone dry under there. Here are some photos of what I found:
Right after removing the first two layers of tarps. I took off that shrink wrap that was left over from shipping since it could make moisture cling to the engine (if it got in there).
This is the only visible casualty of the moisture so far. I think a bunch of moisture collected around the shrink plastic that was wrapped around this crankshaft end a while back and did the damage.
I cleaned it up with a metal finishing pad and a bunch of rags, then coated it with grease.
The rest of the engine looked pretty unchanged by the passage of time. The aluminum didn't look much worse than it did when I transported the engine to the site. I suspect that most of the moisture damage happened when the engine was still in the back of my work truck, since a puddle formed in the bed nearby it.
You can sort of see how the aluminum has "spots" on it now.
Relatively "high and dry."
I pulled the shrink wrap off. You can see the rural yard there.
I noticed a little rust forming in the groove in the crankshaft where the V belt goes, so I cleaned it out with WD-40 and a rag.
What are these rods that I can see in the exhaust ports; are those valve stems? They didn't look rusty, but they did look kind of dry. Or at least half of them did. I gave each exhaust port a quick shot of WD-40 in there to keep those rods oily.
Now here's some of the stuff I stacked on top of the engine before putting the tarps back. I found it at a local hardware store.
Then I placed one other type of anti-moisture deal on top of the engine. Hopefully it won't dry it out so much that it cracks all those nice new hoses!
Back when the engine had just been delivered, I called Steve at Proformanceunlimited and asked him about storage. I told him that I planned to store it outside with a tarp over it until I was ready for it, and I asked if that would be OK. He said it definitely would, that I shouldn't have any problems with that at all.
Then today I got to thinking about that, and I wonder if they put anything special in the cylinders and turned it over before shipping the engine, like some really thick grease/oil or something to help preserve it. Naturally lots of the engines they ship won't be installed for a while (a year or more, perhaps), so maybe they plan in advance for that. I'll call on Monday and ask.
If they didn't do anything special, I'll take the good advice and put a little oil in each cylinder before turning it over.
When I'm facing the water pump, I should turn the crankshaft clockwise right? Also, would anything bad happen to this engine if I accidentally turned it over the wrong way?
Thanks very much for the excellent advice!
-Robroy
Today I went to the site and checked it out, and it looked a lot better than my overly active imagination had made it out to be.
Thankfully, there seemed to be zero actual moisture under the tarps; it was bone dry under there. Here are some photos of what I found:
Right after removing the first two layers of tarps. I took off that shrink wrap that was left over from shipping since it could make moisture cling to the engine (if it got in there).
This is the only visible casualty of the moisture so far. I think a bunch of moisture collected around the shrink plastic that was wrapped around this crankshaft end a while back and did the damage.
I cleaned it up with a metal finishing pad and a bunch of rags, then coated it with grease.
The rest of the engine looked pretty unchanged by the passage of time. The aluminum didn't look much worse than it did when I transported the engine to the site. I suspect that most of the moisture damage happened when the engine was still in the back of my work truck, since a puddle formed in the bed nearby it.
You can sort of see how the aluminum has "spots" on it now.
Relatively "high and dry."
I pulled the shrink wrap off. You can see the rural yard there.
I noticed a little rust forming in the groove in the crankshaft where the V belt goes, so I cleaned it out with WD-40 and a rag.
What are these rods that I can see in the exhaust ports; are those valve stems? They didn't look rusty, but they did look kind of dry. Or at least half of them did. I gave each exhaust port a quick shot of WD-40 in there to keep those rods oily.
Now here's some of the stuff I stacked on top of the engine before putting the tarps back. I found it at a local hardware store.
Then I placed one other type of anti-moisture deal on top of the engine. Hopefully it won't dry it out so much that it cracks all those nice new hoses!
Back when the engine had just been delivered, I called Steve at Proformanceunlimited and asked him about storage. I told him that I planned to store it outside with a tarp over it until I was ready for it, and I asked if that would be OK. He said it definitely would, that I shouldn't have any problems with that at all.
Then today I got to thinking about that, and I wonder if they put anything special in the cylinders and turned it over before shipping the engine, like some really thick grease/oil or something to help preserve it. Naturally lots of the engines they ship won't be installed for a while (a year or more, perhaps), so maybe they plan in advance for that. I'll call on Monday and ask.
If they didn't do anything special, I'll take the good advice and put a little oil in each cylinder before turning it over.
When I'm facing the water pump, I should turn the crankshaft clockwise right? Also, would anything bad happen to this engine if I accidentally turned it over the wrong way?
Thanks very much for the excellent advice!
-Robroy
- drytoast
- Preferred User
- Posts: 274
- Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2008 7:08 am
- Location: Troy Pa
Re: How can engines be protected from air moisture in storage?
If I were you I would get the plastic off of it and make a make shift tent over it, the plastic and the tarp is making a greenhouse out of it. Moisture Will find its way in. if you made a tent at least the flowing air will dry it off. I would also grease it up after its dry and spray WD-40 all over it, the WD stands for water deterent. The tarps are causing more damage than having it in the open air.Just my
Life is hard; its harder if your STUPID. John Wayne
1972 Ford F-100 Explorer 302 C4 automatic
2005 Chrysler T&C Limited
1996 Honda Accord LX 238,000 miles and counting
1972 Ford F-100 Explorer 302 C4 automatic
2005 Chrysler T&C Limited
1996 Honda Accord LX 238,000 miles and counting
- robroy
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 3768
- Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2008 4:36 pm
- Location: California, Salinas
Re: How can engines be protected from air moisture in storage?
Hey Drytoast! Thanks for your suggestions. I think they're good ones, but surprisingly enough it stays quite dry under those tarps.
So tomorrow I'm going to use the advised method of putting a little oil in each cylinder and turning the engine over. I have a few questions about this:
-Robroy
So tomorrow I'm going to use the advised method of putting a little oil in each cylinder and turning the engine over. I have a few questions about this:
- Which direction do I turn the engine over--does it matter? It normally turns counter-clockwise (or clockwise if you're facing it), right?
- How much oil should I put in each cylinder? A tablespoon? A cup? Why not just put a whole bunch in there?
- Should I put the spark plugs back in before turning the engine over, or turn it over without the spark plugs in there?
- Just so I know what to expect, about how much torque should I need to put on the crankshaft for the engine to turn over? It's 10:1 compression.
-Robroy
- thebannister8
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 649
- Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2004 5:06 am
- Location: California, Westminster
Re: How can engines be protected from air moisture in storage?
a thin coat of oil...
-
- New Member
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2008 8:20 am
- Location: Dahlonega, GA
Re: How can engines be protected from air moisture in storage?
Youll want to turn the crank clockwise so you dont back off the nut holding the pully on. If it were me id leave the plugs out till after i turned it over but definatly put them in for the storage. Depending on how much oil you put in and how large the combustion chamers are you can have alot higher compression ratio with the oil in there. Use as little as you can to get the walls covered. then when you install the engine turn it over with the starter a few times with the plugs out just to be sure you dont hydro lock it. Its been a while sense i turned an engine by hand but you will likly have to put a good amount of effort into it. If you have a pipe around it will help out.
1970 F-100 360 stock everything
http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/cc21 ... 0%20F-100/
http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/cc21 ... 0%20F-100/
- robroy
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 3768
- Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2008 4:36 pm
- Location: California, Salinas
Re: How can engines be protected from air moisture in storage?
Thanks for the replies! I just finished the job a few minutes ago. I left the plugs in after I put some oil in each cylinder, but I didn't screw them in tightly--I left them a little loose so that some crazy compression wouldn't be able to build up in the cylinders. Then I turned it over by hand. Thankfully it turned right over with relative ease! I cranked it over probably four or five times, then tightened down the spark plugs properly and sealed it all back up.
While I was turning it, some oil started coming out of one of the exhaust ports. None of the others had this happen. I guess I just put more oil in that cylinder than in the others.
Anyhow, thanks for the great advice!
-Robroy
While I was turning it, some oil started coming out of one of the exhaust ports. None of the others had this happen. I guess I just put more oil in that cylinder than in the others.
Anyhow, thanks for the great advice!
-Robroy
- AlleyCat
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1283
- Joined: Sat May 12, 2007 8:28 pm
- Location: Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh
Re: How can engines be protected from air moisture in storage?
Robroy, everything you've done looks good. I would check it just to make sure no water gets in. I have a couple 390's and a couple of Y- blocks stashed in an old school bus. I shot oil into the cylinders and screwed the plugs back in. I can still turn them by hand and they've been in there about 20 years.
Clay
72 F100 4x2 Custom,289, C4 " Slow Ride "
70 F250 4x2 Ranger XLT , 360, C6 "B52 - IV"
96 F150 4x2 XL, 300, E4OD, daily driver
" Professional Wrecker Operators - We Pull for America "
72 F100 4x2 Custom,289, C4 " Slow Ride "
70 F250 4x2 Ranger XLT , 360, C6 "B52 - IV"
96 F150 4x2 XL, 300, E4OD, daily driver
" Professional Wrecker Operators - We Pull for America "
- Lar4t9r
- New Member
- Posts: 117
- Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2007 9:35 am
- Location: Ocala, Florida
Re: How can engines be protected from air moisture in storage?
20 years, huh? Do they get better with age?AlleyCat wrote:Robroy, everything you've done looks good. I would check it just to make sure no water gets in. I have a couple 390's and a couple of Y- blocks stashed in an old school bus. I shot oil into the cylinders and screwed the plugs back in. I can still turn them by hand and they've been in there about 20 years.
Laurence (Proud owner of 1969 Ford F-100 and 1970 GTO)
- robroy
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 3768
- Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2008 4:36 pm
- Location: California, Salinas
Re: How can engines be protected from air moisture in storage?
Hi Clay, thanks for the confirmation on the benefit of my efforts! Two engines in a school bus for twenty years--that's a vivid scenario.
I think I'll be OK with this engine, since I'll be dropping it in the truck in three weeks anyways. I've been storing it since October 2008 though so I wanted to make sure I wasn't harming it!
-Robroy
I think I'll be OK with this engine, since I'll be dropping it in the truck in three weeks anyways. I've been storing it since October 2008 though so I wanted to make sure I wasn't harming it!
-Robroy
- AlleyCat
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1283
- Joined: Sat May 12, 2007 8:28 pm
- Location: Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh
Re: How can engines be protected from air moisture in storage?
Nope just heavier. They are gonna be a problem though. I slid them in on grease coated sheet metal. Rust has been munching on the bus and the floor is getting soft.Lar4t9r wrote:20 years, huh? Do they get better with age?AlleyCat wrote:Robroy, everything you've done looks good. I would check it just to make sure no water gets in. I have a couple 390's and a couple of Y- blocks stashed in an old school bus. I shot oil into the cylinders and screwed the plugs back in. I can still turn them by hand and they've been in there about 20 years.
Clay
72 F100 4x2 Custom,289, C4 " Slow Ride "
70 F250 4x2 Ranger XLT , 360, C6 "B52 - IV"
96 F150 4x2 XL, 300, E4OD, daily driver
" Professional Wrecker Operators - We Pull for America "
72 F100 4x2 Custom,289, C4 " Slow Ride "
70 F250 4x2 Ranger XLT , 360, C6 "B52 - IV"
96 F150 4x2 XL, 300, E4OD, daily driver
" Professional Wrecker Operators - We Pull for America "
- Brokenarrow
- Preferred User
- Posts: 410
- Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 1:28 pm
- Location: Western Oklahoma
Re: How can engines be protected from air moisture in storage?
I've got a buddy that uses an old house next door to store parts. A couple years ago I bought a '66 289 from him. We started it up in the [censored] floor, two guys had to stand on the headers to hold it down. Then we wheeled it out on an old heavy duty push mower frame. I wish I'd had a camera that day. A 22" push-mower with a small-block Ford on it. M/T valve-covers, long-tube headers, it looked pretty mean
'68 SWB f100, 401ci FE/C6, '68 Mustang fastback (restoration in progress)
2013 F150 KingRanch (ecoboost), '48 8N tractor
"Be more concerned with your character than your reputation, because your character is what you really are, while your reputation is merely what others think you are."
— John Wooden
2013 F150 KingRanch (ecoboost), '48 8N tractor
"Be more concerned with your character than your reputation, because your character is what you really are, while your reputation is merely what others think you are."
— John Wooden