carb/intake recom? or help adjusting original...

[heartless]

Looking to upgrade the carb/intake on my 67 F250 - engine = bone stock 352, 2bbl - tranny = NP435 4 spd manual

story - had to throw a carb kit in the original 40+ yr old carb a couple years ago due to fuel leaking all over - since then the truck has been harder to start and stumbles occasionally off throttle... I am not the greatest carb mechanic in the world, but i know enough to handle the basics - I am sure all the darn thing needs is some fine tuning, but no idea where to even start with that...

I am looking for basic driveability here - not interested in stomping the rice-burners or anything, just need it to be easier starting, more reliable running, maybe even stretch the fuel mileage even a little bit (doubtful, but one can dream )

This truck is used mainly for hauling large/heavy items - stuff that wont fit in the other truck we have: 1/2 ton shortbox w/topper...things like motorcycles, appliances, building materials, etc, with the occasional local car show & maybe a joyride once in a while, just because...

Would love to keep the old oil-bath aircleaner, but I also know that probably isnt an option when changing out carb...

so - suggestions? opinions? where to go for parts? are there any intakes that will just drop on the 352 w/o modifications???
this is not a "rush" kind of thing, truck is parked until spring (still a few months away here) but would like to get info so I can start saving the pennies now...

[freeline95]

Their are actually a lot of things you can do here you can stay with 2 barrel or go to a 4 barrel which is what i would do because that is what i did. i have a 360 which is exactly the same as your 352.(its the same block) what I did was I got a 600cfm edelbrock carb from a friend and went to town to the parts store and got a ford 2 barrel to a 4 barrel adapter plate (your local parts store should have one). I came home installed the 4 barrel on my 2 barrel intake and it does just fine. I also do some hauling and that edelbrock does great on hills or anywhere. although a 4 barrel intake would be much better if you could get your hands on one you could use a factory steel 4 barrel intake (you can use any intake off of a 352-360-390) you can also use an aftermarket aluminum intake if you also want to some of those can be pricey$$ depends on what you want. Edelbrock makes intakes for that motor as well as many other aftermarket companies.

[freeline95]

and also just one more thing you may want to note that if you go to change your intake that in order to do that you will need to remove your valve covers and your lifters and push tubes because they go through your intake.

[heartless]

and also just one more thing you may want to note that if you go to change your intake that in order to do that you will need to remove your valve covers and your lifters and push tubes because they go through your intake.

Hey, thanks for the quick replies - good info to know about the pushrods - didnt think of that...

dont think i want to go aluminum - cash flow is kinda tight, but not too bad...

[heartless]

also - should I go manual or electric choke??? truck has manual choke right now...if i went electric, how hard is it to hook up??

[heartless]

OOoo - just had another thought because of this line

(you can use any intake off of a 352-360-390)

- i know where there is an old junker 69 thunderbird with a 390 - so the intake from this motor would fit my 352??? (please say yes, would save me lots of money! )

if so, then i would be able to get a new carb to put on that, right?

[freeline95]

Yes the intake off of the 390 would work on your 352 because a 352,360,390 are all the same block which is a 352 block! So you could go and get that and then as you said just go buy a carburetor.

I my self like manual choke but electric is fine to an edelbrock electric choke is easy to hook up if you get a carb with one already on it than you just half to run a hot wire and a ground to it edelbrock has a video on their website on how to adjust an electric choke and its also fairly easy to install an electric choke on one that came with a manual choke. but in the main since I think that I would go manual they seem easier to start when cold. (don't know anything about a holly) Edelbrock is also really easy to tune especially compared to a holly.

I also know what you mean about the cash flow mine sucks

[freeline95]

Here are some videos that should help you if you go to install an edelbrock carb
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new ... vids.shtml

then as you said just go buy a carburetor.

and I forgot to add you might want to get the stuff to install your carb to your manafold.

Q: How do I hook up my electric choke (voltage)?

A: The Electric choke on our Performer Series and AVS carburetors needs to be hooked to a “keyed” (while the key is in the on position) 12-volt power source, with a good ground. Verify there is no voltage when the key is in the off position. Do not connect the positive wire to the Ignition Coil, ballast resistor or Alternator.

Here is how to hook up your electric choke

[sideoilerfe]

your 67 has a manual choke it would be easier to keep it like that. You can still keep the oilbath air cleaner if you wish. They work fine and it'll fit on the carb.

I'm a Holley man myself but either carb will work just fine. I prefer the vacuum secondaries of the Holleys better for a heavy trucks like ours. 600 to 650 CFM is plenty. Anymore than that is overkill for a stock motor.

[averagef250]

Adjust your 2V. No need to spend any money at all.

The instructions that come with the carb kit tell you exactly how to adjust float level (likely your problem) and adjusting idle speed and mixture is simple enough, exactly the same as it is with a new 4V edelbrock or holley.

You cannot beat the stock 2V for reliability and ease of working on it (if you ever actually need to).

[heartless]

Adjust your 2V. No need to spend any money at all.

The instructions that come with the carb kit tell you exactly how to adjust float level (likely your problem) and adjusting idle speed and mixture is simple enough, exactly the same as it is with a new 4V edelbrock or holley.

You cannot beat the stock 2V for reliability and ease of working on it (if you ever actually need to).

followed the directions in the kit for adjusting the float level - kit came with a measuring device, etc - adjusted to what kit said it should be - put on the truck and it wouldnt even start. had to re-adjust the float much higher than was spec'ed to get it to run (done over several small incremental adjustments). note - second time ever attempting carb rebuild - first time was on my motorcycle - just a little different...

as for adjusting idle speed and mixture - there were no instructions in the kit for that, and I have no idea where to begin...had a hard enough time even finding the right kit for the darn thing! if you can point me in the right direction I am willing to at least give it a try...

also, there was a small rubber "stopper" on the top outside of the float bowl (attached to a pivoting arm) that was age damaged/cracked, no replacement in the kit, and no exact replacement to be found anywhere - I managed to get something close, but it doesnt quite fit properly... maybe i should get some pics...

[heartless]

ok, pic of my carb...

the yellow arrow is where the fuel was leaking from which prompted the "rebuild" - leaking fuel is never a good thing...

red arrow is the littler stopper thing i was talking about - the original rubber piece was larger in diameter & thickness than the replacement is, thus the replacement doesnt quite sit right (see second pic). have tried to adjust the arm a little, but what it really needs is to be twisted so the rubber sits flatter over the opening...not sure if this thing has anything to do with the stumbling or not - comments or suggestions welcome...

[DuckRyder]

Browse back a bit, I'm not an autolite guy, but there have been a number of very detailed threads on them.

If adjusting it won't do then you might consider the 350CFM Holley 2300 2bbl replacement.

The thunderbird intake should fit and then you could use your choice of 4bbl carbs (what does the t-bird have on it?). As a side note you DONOT have to remove the lifters to change it, only the valvecovers, rocker assemblies and pushrods. If you get the intake get all the vaccume conections and tubes with it. Be advised as well that they are very heavy (80-90 lbs) so an engine hoist is frequently employed to assit.

[heartless]

thanks for the info - have found a couple of threads on the Autolite 2100, but not quite what the info I am looking for - yet...
still looking tho. my problem is I have no idea what to turn, or how much, etc...basically just cleaned, changed gaskets, & float needle/seat - tried to adjust float, but that didnt seem to go so well... didnt do much of anything else with the carb...

am a truckdriver so not able to get on here everyday...

if I do pull that other intake, will not be able to get a hoist to it...not in the best of locations - not sure what is on there for carb, but will probably grab it too, just because...

[fomocoguy]

Just be sure to bring a strong person with you to help out; leaning over the fender trying to pull a 90 lb intake off by yourself is a sure fire way to rack your back. I can tell you right now that if you change to a four barrel and drop a new or reman Edelbrock 600 on her you will be very pleased and never look back. I did this swap on my 65 w/ a 352 and it ran sooooo much better, even after rebuilding my stocker. I didn't have to adjust the carb whatsoever, just plop it on and go. Plus I gained about 1000 usable rpms on the top end. The only things you have to do is modify the linkage a bit and adapt your fittings and fuel lines. You'll probably want to ditch the original "trapeze" throttle linkage and just fab up a straight adjustable rod.

As for Holley vs Edelbrock everybody has their opinion, but I've run both plenty of times (occaisionally on the same vehicle) so here's my two cents. A holley will build more horsepower (600cfm holley vs 600cfm edelbrock) hands down. When adjusted correctly and in good condition, the holley wins the hp war, and will function flawlessly. It does, however, require more periodic adjustments.

On the other hand, the Edelbrock wins the mileage and ease of use award. It will rarely (if ever) need to be adjusted and you will likely see an increase in mileage as long as you don't romp it all the time. Both examples are assuming you are using a new or quality reman carb; most people who experiance problems with either brand are using some hand-me-down worn out carb thats been abused and never rebuilt. For your app, I say Edelbrock is in your corner. You can get a reman off ebay for about $200 shipped.