improving a 70' 302

[cjhall]

Hello All,

In an earlier post I didn't really ask the right questions, so I'll try again. I am going to rebuild a 302 for my 70' F100. I need to drive my truck while I am building the motor so I am going to buy a motor for a core. My goal is to have a super clean engine compartment, as simple as can be. I don't have to pass smog so I won't have to have a bunch of vacuum lines going everywhere, I'll use wire looms, spark wire routers, and everything else I need to do to have a super clean engine compartment.
Since I am going to get a motor as a core, I see an opportunity to improve upon what I have. I am interested in a roller set up if at all possible or recommended. I don't want to do a EFI conversion. So my question is which 302 core do I buy? I'll be using the beefed up C4 transmission out of the truck. Can a 199? 302 with EFI be used as a carburetor motor? Can smog equipment be eliminated from a newer 302 and allow it to still run well? Or should I just get another 1970 302 core and rebuild it pretty well stock? After I get this part figured out, we'll talk about the cylinder heads!!!!

Thanks again for your time,
Chris

[cjhall]

Thanks for the reply. As you can tell, I am at the very beginning of this project and I have a lot to learn. Thanks for your very informative response.

Chris

[69rangerman]

No problem. I'll dig out a few resources and post back if I find anything new.

As far as the block goes, regardless of new or old, there are some things that make good sense for durability:

-Have the block magna fluxed for cracks (gotta have a good foundation)
-Have the block deck checked for warping- milled for flatness if necessary.
-Have the cylinders checked for actual size (they may have already been bored), then bored out to the next size up.
-Have the small press in plugs for the cam area oil holes removed and have these threaded for screw in plugs.
-Have all the threads chased so your bolts get a good bite and correct torque readings.
-Have the lifter bores honed lightly.
-Have the block boiled out before work starts - then take as long as you need to wash, re-wash, clean, and re-clean until you see nothing coming out of water passages.

Have a clean work area, oil the cylinders, lifter bores, and gasket surfaces if you're not going to start right away, and cover the block while you're not working on it.

The above operations will cost a couple hundred or more by a shop, on top of the money you spend on a block or engine that you're going to tear apart. By the time you're done doing even a stock rebuild, you'll be looking at a minimum of 1,000.00 if you do all the installations. If you pay for other work (balancing, head/valve set up etc.) you'll be in the 1,500 - 2,000 range. This is before new carb, headers, etc.

In comparison, a running 5.0 engine out of an existing vehicle can be had in my town all day long from 250.00 - 500.00.
Swap the intake, buy a carb, plug some holes, do a tune up, buy the correct flywheel and you have a running engine for less than 1,000.00

If I had to do it again, I'd have gone this route and installed a used 351w, and a rebuilt C4. I did learn alot, and have some pride that I got it done, but I'd rather have spent the money on body work, suspension, and tires/wheels.

Sorry so long on the post.

[69rangerman]

I hope this link works. This site is subscription (pay to play) only and I've had one for a while, but being that it's a forum thread it may just work.

This guy did exactly what you're talking about so you're getting first hand info.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/tech-e ... oller.html

Good luck!

[cjhall]

That last link was great, that is exactly what I am talking about. I am just wondering if there are any differences going into a F100 as opposed to a Mustang?

Chris

[69rangerman]

Probably the oil pan. Instead of a 2 hump or rear hump for a car, you'll need the front hump for the truck x-member.

Engine mounts should be the same.

Good luck!

[fitzwell]

I'd try & get my hands on a 5.0 mustang roller motor. Decent heads, upgrade to roller rockers & beter valve springs. After that, it's all basic engine building.