Im planning on doing the swap this weekend. Right now the truck has a stock 2bbl with a Holley carb...
I have a Eddy streetmaster with an Eddy 500cfm elcetric choke. I was going with a 600cfm but I forgot that I used it on another project a while ago so I will runn the 500 until I get another 600 or the old Carter 650 that my buddy has on his shelf.
I am a mopar guy and the only FoMoCo motors I have played with were flatheads but I am no rookie when it comes to old cars so what am I in for? I have a hoist to yank that big chunk of pig iron off the motor, I know the push rods have to come out, the motor is a stock rebuilt 390 with points (yes that will be getting upgraded next) so Im not worried about the 500cfm not being enough. Can someone post a pic of a 390 with the intake off so I can check it out ahead of time?
Corner leaks on the front and rear of the manifolds. There are hundreds of this same question asked on the forum do a search on leaks and manifold changes. I don't like cork end seals and if I can let the truck set for 24 hours I would seal the ends with nothing but RTV. I use the rubber end seals. I use Felpro with no problem. Other people hate them. I use RTV everywhere others says it causes problems.
Ford say drop the dizzy into the manifold then lower the manifold into the engine. That makes sure the gaskets and end seals don't slide around. After the 4 corner bolts are in you can remove the dizzy and stuff a rag in the hole until the manifold is torqued down.
Have fun and let us know how the Streetmaster 390 performs. I have used them and I will again.
Old Fords Rule Was a Ford Service Tech
71 F250 with Shell Car 390 NP435 Dana 60 3.73s, PS, PB, 750 EC VS Holley Accel Points Eliminator.
98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto 71 Service manuals Volumes 1,2,3 and 4 So ask away. My Gallery Spark test
"I have a Eddy streetmaster with an Eddy 500cfm elcetric choke. I was going with a 600cfm but I forgot that I used it on another project a while ago so I will runn the 500 until I get another 600 or the old Carter 650 that my buddy has on his shelf."
Dragon wrote:Corner leaks on the front and rear of the manifolds. There are hundreds of this same question asked on the forum do a search on leaks and manifold changes. I don't like cork end seals and if I can let the truck set for 24 hours I would seal the ends with nothing but RTV. I use the rubber end seals. I use Felpro with no problem. Other people hate them. I use RTV everywhere others says it causes problems.
Ford say drop the dizzy into the manifold then lower the manifold into the engine. That makes sure the gaskets and end seals don't slide around. After the 4 corner bolts are in you can remove the dizzy and stuff a rag in the hole until the manifold is torqued down.
Have fun and let us know how the Streetmaster 390 performs. I have used them and I will again.
So it is just like any other intake swap, junk the end seals and use the whole tube of RTV!
A 390 at 4800 rpm and the Streetmaster should pull 85% VE and that comes to 460.417 CFM at 85%VE
A 390 truck engine rated at 4400 needs 422.049 cfm. These formulas work my 750 Holley on my 390 does not ever open the full way. Car 390 at 5000 rpm need 479.601 and sure enough my secondaries never open of 1/2 way.
Old Fords Rule Was a Ford Service Tech
71 F250 with Shell Car 390 NP435 Dana 60 3.73s, PS, PB, 750 EC VS Holley Accel Points Eliminator.
98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto 71 Service manuals Volumes 1,2,3 and 4 So ask away. My Gallery Spark test
wow all within a few minutes of posting. those are quite a few answers. i have to say i love this site. it keeps my broke self entertained.
ok down to business. alot of the problems you may incure have already been sugjested. intake leaks are your worst problems. of course any smart mechanic will keep there push rods in order to go back properly. your valley pan is in there for a good reason. i would put it back if i were doing the job on my truck or someones elses truck. make sure and use good intake gaskets. the ones to the heads. some guys seal around the water ports to the heads some guys don't. i think the last time i did it i used silcone i think. i can't remember now. one obstical you may run across is the dist being stuck or the oil pump shft falling intot he pan. you have to watch for that. work the dist around in half circles with some penetrating oil around the base. since it has been rebuilt you may not have any problems though. if you have any problems there is almost always some one on here 24/7. even i have been on here alone in the middle of the night but as soon as i have left some one has signed on to replace me. we are a ford driven family here and we all like to help even if they are ding dong questions once in awhile. or they get drilled into the ground with the sanme answer to the same question by the same person.
Yeah I really like this site it reminds me of www.forabodiesonly.com the other one Im on (Im 360scamp over there and I got the truck from redscampi, I know a few of you guys are here too ) There is always someone to answer your questions and people don't cry about stupid stuff like over on the hamb!
Everything these guys have said is great but i would add one caveat. FelPro makes more than one style of gasket and one of them is known for it's high failure rate. It is called a "Print-O-Seal" or as we call them on the Ford FE forum, "Print-O-Leaks". It has been discovered that the material actually crumbles and fails after a short period of time due to compression. Here are some scary pictures and info: http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/th ... fered-+-+-. Hope this helps, Hawkrod
willowbilly3 wrote:I guess you were stocked up on Mopar engine paint? Pretty, wrong but pretty.
LOL the built slant six that I put in my wifes 48 chevy aerosedan is getting repainted ford red from mopar blue The motor was in a 72 scamp that was plumcrazy then we traded the scamp for the chevy and kept the slant and she wants it red so red it will be.
Hawkrod wrote:Everything these guys have said is great but i would add one caveat. FelPro makes more than one style of gasket and one of them is known for it's high failure rate. It is called a "Print-O-Seal" or as we call them on the Ford FE forum, "Print-O-Leaks". It has been discovered that the material actually crumbles and fails after a short period of time due to compression. Here are some scary pictures and info: http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/th ... fered-+-+-. Hope this helps, Hawkrod
Thanks for the heads up! Those gaskets look pretty nasty, I just checked and the ones I got were the good felpros so as soon as I finish up some paperwork I will be ripping things apart!
The good FelPros is what CarQuest sells for FE as standard. I have two sets.
Old Fords Rule Was a Ford Service Tech
71 F250 with Shell Car 390 NP435 Dana 60 3.73s, PS, PB, 750 EC VS Holley Accel Points Eliminator.
98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto 71 Service manuals Volumes 1,2,3 and 4 So ask away. My Gallery Spark test
Well it got dark and I bashed my finger (my hand slipped off the wrench into my vise )so that seems like a good reason to stop and finish it tomorrow. I have the new intake bolted down with 6 bolts (front middle rear) just snugged down so the end rail gaskets will set and not squish out. I used a crapload of RTV and let it set up for about an hour before I put the intake on. The old intake came off with no problem I just used my welding gloves, leaned over the core support and lifted it off carb and all. Im no superman (6'3" 190lbs) but that didn't feel like 75lbs like I have been told.
I know the intake is 30ft lbs but what do I torque the rocker arms to the heads?
I read in another post about hooking up the electric choke wire to the back of the alt on the unused post, is this the one?
I will get her up and running tomorrow and there will be more pics on the way. Thanks for the help huys!!!
) There is always someone to answer your questions and people don't cry about stupid stuff like over on the hamb!
)so that seems like a good reason to stop and finish it tomorrow. I have the new intake bolted down with 6 bolts (front middle rear) just snugged down so the end rail gaskets will set and not squish out. I used a crapload of RTV and let it set up for about an hour before I put the intake on. The old intake came off with no problem I just used my welding gloves, leaned over the core support and lifted it off carb and all. Im no superman (6'3" 190lbs) but that didn't feel like 75lbs like I have been told.
