Broke bolt on exhaust manifold

Dragon · Post by **Dragon** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:01 pm

The cylinder exhaust is so hot that it cuts a groove in the exhaust flange of the head and on the manifold or header face. It only takes a slight nick to start the process. Loose bolts allow the manifold or header flange to bend away under heat (warp) and that allows the exhaust to leak and make a fire track.

The fire track is a groove cut into the faces of the exhaust parts. A groove that can only be repaired with machining or welding and machining.

ares360 · Post by **ares360** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:04 pm

there is an idea, just weld the exhaust on there.

fordman · Post by **fordman** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 12:02 am

when drilling out a bolt. try to start with a flat surface of the broken bolt. then take a punch and put a dimple right int he middle of the bolt to be drilled out. then start with a good sharp strong drill bit.several sizes smaller than the bolt size. drill in straight. when the bit gets through the bolt it will slide in a slight stop drilling. you have gotten to the end of the bolt. then step up in drill bit size until you reach very clsoe the the thread size. put a easy out in the hole you drilled and turn the easy out to get the rest of the bolt out.

ares360 · Post by **ares360** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 12:11 am

tried all of that. The only thing I think I could do is get a sharper stronger bit.

Dragon · Post by **Dragon** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 12:33 am

That solves more problems than I can think of. The number of times I drilled for an 2 hours or more to get through 1/2 steel pipe to hang a sign. Got a new bit in the morning and did one hole in 10 minutes. By using 7 1/8 then 7 1/4 bits I could then drill through with 7 1/2 bits for the mounts. Every bit after the first hole was brand new. What a difference it made not trying the slightly used bits. Every hole was 15 minutes after I bought all those new bits.

ares360 · Post by **ares360** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 12:36 am

FLATBEDFORD · Post by **FLATBEDFORD** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 11:24 am

I always buy a new bit when I know I'm going to drill a lot of steel. I think the few bucks for the bit will always be worth the time saved.

Dragon · Post by **Dragon** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 7:30 pm

So very true but before it becomes on several product pictures should be added. Don't you think?

fordman · Post by **fordman** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 8:04 pm

a picture of torch? if someone weere to write up a how to with pics i'm sure it would get stuck.

Dragon · Post by **Dragon** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 8:22 pm

Torch, chemicals and tools that help. A write up about it all. I have written a lot here on the site but need pics.

Dragon · Post by **Dragon** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 10:50 pm

torch.jpg

torch2.jpg

Yah mean like this.

FLATBEDFORD · Post by **FLATBEDFORD** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:50 am

Or this;

willowbilly3 · Post by **willowbilly3** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 1:18 pm

I guess I never had to use the torch on the flange studs. Well on chevys I have.

Dragon · Post by **Dragon** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 3:39 pm

Good shot here Mr. FlatBedFord. Flatties rule. Sorry I had to let mine go.

FLATBEDFORD · Post by **FLATBEDFORD** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:51 pm

I had to pay that guy $40 to come out with his torch to do that. But it was better than removing the head and having a machine shop do it.

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Broke bolt on exhaust manifold

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