? for duckryder re:intake gaskets

[citizendick]

ok got the victor gaskets, not nitroseal, they arn't marked anywhere but i think they are the vr-2000, so rtv in the 4 corners only then gaskets on dry? no instructions or spec sheet included although they sure look superior to felpro. thank you. dick

[DuckRyder]

Hi Dick,

I apologize for the lateness, I was on the road all day yesterday (gotta love 13 hours in a Chevy Van, half of which was in snow and ice) and had one of my rare days that I didn't make it by the forums in the evening.

If the gaskets have the sealing lines impregnated (red lines) I would certainly put them on dry (save perhaps some weather-strip adhesive in the center to hold them in place). If not then I personally would still put them on dry, but don't think a SPARING application of right stuff around the coolant port would hurt.

As for the end seals, your choice to use them or not with a factory intake (some aftermarket ones have deeper rails and should not use cork) I use cork, but properly allied silicone (or better yet THE RIGHT STUFF) will also work. If you do use the end seals, yes, a bead or drop where they meet the head/intake gasket.

Probably the two most important things are:

Scrupulously clean surfaces
The intake goes straight down avoiding movement after it is placed/contacts the gaskets/sealing materials.


Hope this helps! And good luck.

[Calvin Gunter]

Hey Duck,while we're picking your brain.I too am planning on an intake swap soon and I see where you recommend straight down with the intake,how do you then install the little bypass hose up front? I always have trouble with that.TIA,Calvin

[fordman]

when i did mine straight down. i did it kind of at a tilt to get the hose started i think. either that or i had the water pump off.

[stangconv]

This is for FE's?

[DuckRyder]

Hey Duck,while we're picking your brain.I too am planning on an intake swap soon and I see where you recommend straight down with the intake,how do you then install the little bypass hose up front? I always have trouble with that.TIA,Calvin

Ideally, remove the water pump; however I've had some success with using a wire tie to collapse the hose and then releasing it once the intake is bolted on. Hard to explain but think of an inchworm or bell shape. If you are not lowering the intake with an engine lift or similar it’s going to be difficult to do it without two people or the water pump removed.

[BobbyFord]

Hey Duck,while we're picking your brain.I too am planning on an intake swap soon and I see where you recommend straight down with the intake,how do you then install the little bypass hose up front? I always have trouble with that.TIA,Calvin

It's not necessary to have more than a hose clamps width of intake pipe sticking out. I trim them and then get the bypass hose wet with fresh coolant, bend it in half and press it down onto the two pipes. Make sure you file the sharp edges off of the bypass pipes after cutting to size.

[citizendick]

snow and ice here too. after looking at the head and intake tonight i think i found my error, i used the 3m adhesive to tack the gaskets in the center and both ends, (hum)right by the water jackets, a little on the head a little on the gasket = a little to thick, that stuff doesn't compress, so i think it didn't let the intake sit flush enough to seal. sound right to you guys? the victors have no red strips.i guess just a little tack in the center, near no ports is what i should have done. live and learn.thanks for all the help. PS. doing the intake by myself i pull the water pump to install the bypass.

[Banjo]

Duck is right, gotta be very clean, that means get it down to bare metal and use some brake cleaner or lacquer thinner or similar (alcohol) to ensure no greasy spots and to go down straight with an intake do this: take some correct size fasteners for intake bolts and cut the heads off w/grinder or hacksaw, cut a groove into top (that will fit a flathead screwdriver) and put some of those in (likely 1 at each corner) and gently ease intake into place. Making dowels with bolts has sure turned my life around in the assembly arena. doesn't take long and sure eases the burden hunched under a hood holding a 80 pound hunk of steel and trying to sit it down nice and even. when it's in place, use your flathead and back those dowel pins out and put in the correct fastener. I have started a dowel pin collection of these things I keep in a bin on my workbench and use them to ease transmission on/off, heads, intakes, whatever. Banjo.

[DuckRyder]

Ford says drop the dizzy before you lower it in so the manifold drops straight down and does not slide. My dizzy is getting butchered in a few months so it's replacement will be used when i put the manifold in.

[Dragon]

Wow my post disappeared except for your quote of it.

[fordman]

yea it did i read it last nihgt. thats wierd. i could have sworn i posted something the other day. but it disappeared also. so i just left it at that thinking maybe i didnt post it after all.

[DuckRyder]

Wow my post disappeared except for your quote of it.

Sorry, I split the EFI talk into another topic, however there is no way to split an actual post so when part of it applies and part of it goes into the new post the only method I've come up with is that one.

Ford man, I don't recall deleting one of yours, although I moved several other EFI post other than dragons.

[Dragon]

Thanks Mister DuckRyder What name post did it go to?

[Ranchero50]

It may also be worth noting that if either mating surface has pits from coolant corrosion you'll need some permatex to seal the pores. I always brush a little on both side of the gasket at the water and heat crossover ports. Less is better. I also permatex the block gap. had too many bad experiences with the stupid cork popping out or leaking when done. Glue it and walk away.

Jamie