Nothing like a new motor to get things rolling....
I found this one on Craigslist for a reasonable price! The short block is ready to go, all built with Cummins West bearings and gaskets. ARP head studs, nice HX35, built P7100 and all misc pieces. Just need to get a head.... o-ringed and ported.
So I will be getting back to this project after the holidays!
'69 Ford Cummins Crew Cab... Built 6BT main & head studs, ported & oringed head, springs, Ti retainers, marine cam, tweaked P7100, 4K gov kit, NV4500 w/1.375" input, Southbend 3600# DD clutch, NP271 w/SYE, D60 HP front, high steer, 16" coilovers & 4-link, D80 w/disc rear, 4.10's & LSD, spinning 38" x 14.fiddy's on classic slots..... more coming!
cool now is that or i guess all bt4's and 6's pump driven fuel delivery or are some suction/syphon driven? our big cummins in the F650's are 4 cylinders and syphon driven fuel delivery.
"It is better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt." - Mark Twain
'70 f250 4x4 Crew cab 460/C6 '72 F100 390/C6 9.8 MPG AVG. '89 Mercury Cougar LS Dual Exh. V6 . 18.9 MPG AVG. In Town.
I don't want to give em a heart-attack. That is what would happen if I answered the door in the buff. Heck it almost scares me to death when I step out of the shower and look in the mirror.~Mancar1~
fuelly.com
With the shortblock assembled you should be able to measure exactly how far the pistons are sitting above the deck and determine how much was decked. Piston quench is critical on these. A few thou off and you can raise compression cosiderably, better to be too low than too high on an engine you're going to run hard.
Not exactly sure, but I'd guess about 750 for the shortblock. My engine stand's built from 1" T-1 plate and 1/2" wall 4" steel tubing and it groans quite a bit with one on it.
Purchased this 5" exhaust from a company that enables you to get just the pieces that you need... since I dont need a downpipe, it worked out great! I added an extra piece of 5" straight incase I needed to add some length...
My boy is thinking it's all wrong though!
Hey Dad this stuff is too small... even I can't crawl through it!
'69 Ford Cummins Crew Cab... Built 6BT main & head studs, ported & oringed head, springs, Ti retainers, marine cam, tweaked P7100, 4K gov kit, NV4500 w/1.375" input, Southbend 3600# DD clutch, NP271 w/SYE, D60 HP front, high steer, 16" coilovers & 4-link, D80 w/disc rear, 4.10's & LSD, spinning 38" x 14.fiddy's on classic slots..... more coming!
Since this baby has a real home now.... I have decided to go ahead and run coilovers up front on a four link set-up. At first I was going to do this as kind of a side bar to getting the truck on the road this summer. Now I'm seeing some advantages to upping the priority on this.... So just about all the parts have been ordered to make this happen! Even purchased a decent manual tube bender and a couple dies.
At least with the coils I should get a pretty decent ride! I'll look at doing the rear down the road...
'69 Ford Cummins Crew Cab... Built 6BT main & head studs, ported & oringed head, springs, Ti retainers, marine cam, tweaked P7100, 4K gov kit, NV4500 w/1.375" input, Southbend 3600# DD clutch, NP271 w/SYE, D60 HP front, high steer, 16" coilovers & 4-link, D80 w/disc rear, 4.10's & LSD, spinning 38" x 14.fiddy's on classic slots..... more coming!
Some good pictures here of what the ports should look like. If you have the bucks these guys do some pretty nice work, runs about $4K for a worked head with a standard entry intake. There is a lot to gain in port work. The bowls are pretty bad in stock form.
Thanks for the updates keep 'em comin' 
