Fuel line pump to carb?

[jokqs]

Anybody know if there are any aftermarket lines available that will work other than a stock line? My male coupler seems to be hammered and is leaking fuel?
Thx

[fordman]

unless you are wanting something chrome or stainless. parts stores carry new fuel line that can be bend to the correct shape and a new nut put on it.

[67MercM100]

They just kinda looked a me funny when I asked that at the local parts store.
Hence, in my "Fuel Pump Question" (or whatever I called it) thread, you'll see a rubber line coming out of the pump.
At least I know which one's coming out now. LOL

OH...I don't plan on leaving the rubber line from the pump to the carb. I'm just trying to get the thing started to evaluate what I've got.

These guys here seem to know their stuff. I do have a friend who's a sales rep for NAPA and also actually knows vehicles. I can ask him what they have.

[cdherman]

Ask for a 40" 5/16 pre-made double flare brake line. Fuel and brake lines are the same design (though your 67 takes 3/16" brake line).

Loan a tubeing bender from them as well. Most places will loan it.

Since you don't have the orignal hard line to copy from, you should look for some pictures. I don't know how to post pics here -- I think I would need to sign up for another account or something. Never got around to it.

Basically, you want to route the line away from the engine about 3 inches, and towards the front where air from the fan will keep it cool. Hard to descibe. Mine is original, but I've made up a replacement for another 240 once so the 40" number is about right.

By getting a premade line, you can avoid double flareing the line yourself. It can be a PITA.

[69rangerman]

You can also purchase a pump line for the same year mustang.

If you're not doing a restoration you can bend it by hand or with a bender and bring it up just above the intake, then cut it (sand/smooth out the cut and blow or wash out the tube before using) and then run rubber fuel line and an inline filter to the carb.

This will also help reduce hot start / vapor lock problems.

Good luck!

[jokqs]

Ok guy's c if u can help me w/this one... Went to NAPA and got some 5/16 fuel line tubing with male adaptors at both ends. It was a lil longer than I needed, but the guy @ the counter said it can b bent. So I rerouted it and buttoned it up @ both ends "fuel pump to Carb" Now both male fittings are leaking, the tubing looks like it has a cpl lil kinks here n there from the bend, but not like fuel isnt gettin enough passage cause if it was there would b no fuel getting to the carb, hence the fuel comming outta the male adaptor.......anybody ever have this happen???? The fuel pump is brand new, carb brand new rebuild, any feed back would b great.....
thanx to all

[fordman]

was the end of the line a proper double flare? or did you make the proper double flare? you can use thread tape on it also. maybe the line is not sitting in there rpoperly to create a good seal to the flare. is it tight enough? did the flare break when it was flared? and little cracks in it? did something happen to flare off the flare and not be completely clean when you tightened it down? maybe some dirt was in the carb or fuel pump before you put the line on making it leak. thats all i can think of to check out.

[cdherman]

You cannot use thread tape on a double flare fitting. The fitting seals metal to metal.

When you assemble a double flare joint, make sure that the flare is all the way down in the female fitting. You can see a cone down in the female fitting. Slide the male fitting back away from the end of the tube and just make sure the flare part is nice and seated. The tube should be leaving the female fitting "square" to the axis, so that you can finger tighten the male nut down into the female fitting.

You have a flare nut wrench, right? You do NOT use the flare nut wrench to get the fitting started or most of the way down. If its binding up such that you cannot finger tighten it, then the tubeing is in the female fitting "crooked" and you'll not get a good seal.

If you can finger tighten the net most of the way, then finish her up with the flare nut wrench.

If it still leaks, loosen it back up, take apart, and reassemble. Sometime the two bearing surfaces (the cone and double flare) take a couple of cracks to mate up tight.

Sometimes however, an old line will have been removed and re-installed so often that the double flare is completely flattened, or shaped to a former cone. In that case, its either make a new line or cut off the end of the line and put a new double flare on it. Double flaring is kind of a learned art -- mostly you fail miserably at first. Kind of fun once you get the knack, but if you can buy a line that is close, its the best approach IMHO.....


In terms of kinks in the line, the line will fail there first (vibration etc). Did you use a tubeing bender? Most places loan them. Or $10 to $20 buys one.......

[jokqs]

I found a new fuel line w/all da bells n whistles n so on thas exact, since I think da , dude @ Napa sold me sum garbage, told me I could bend it w/out a tube bender, but I found sum creases "not sure if thas da prob or not" but will keep updated, since its winta in AK I need my damn 4 wheel drive. Thx guys