averagef250 wrote:Eric's got a good point. I'd want tie rods for the street too.
IMO... It would seem to me that if heims can handle the forces of big tires on the rocks with hydraulic steering rams attached to the tie rods, then it would seem to me that street duty wouldn't be an issue?
Hmmm.... looking at the desert racers it looks like they are using heims for control arms as well as steering geometry.... and those boys launch those trucks!!!
The problem I see with what you have there and sort/part of what I think Eric is leading to, is the way you have that one mounted in the picture, if the Heim fails in the center it will pop off and leave the bolt holding the center part there. You need to have a thick flat washer that is the same diameter as the outside of the Heim. You will probably also need the tapered spacer bushings that go on top and bottom so that the Heim wont bind with articulation.
The bolt is just as strong as tie rod bolt would be for shear but if a guy was worried about it you could weld a bracket on the top of the arm to contain it.
This shows how it is done on my buddys Trophy Truck see attachment...
My
Still looking good though.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Shayne
I'm not "Brand Loyal" Ford-Chevy-Dodge-Toyota I have them all, one even cross mixed...
If it Looks good and Works good then it's ok by me. Everything has its issues from time to time...
Thunderfoot wrote:
The problem I see with what you have there and sort/part of what I think Eric is leading to, is the way you have that one mounted in the picture, if the Heim fails in the center it will pop off and leave the bolt holding the center part there. You need to have a thick flat washer that is the same diameter as the outside of the Heim. You will probably also need the tapered spacer bushings that go on top and bottom so that the Heim wont bind with articulation
OK.... I hear ya. That bolt (5/8") is in place for photo purposes only as it isn't even the correct size. I have to go get a couple 3/4" grade 8's.
There is not enough articulation on a tie rod to be of concern as it generally stays parallel with the axle during suspension movement. There is a little (very little) change in angle from lock to lock though, so no tapered spacer will be used or needed in this case.
Heims look cool though!
'69 Ford Cummins Crew Cab... Built 6BT main & head studs, ported & oringed head, springs, Ti retainers, marine cam, tweaked P7100, 4K gov kit, NV4500 w/1.375" input, Southbend 3600# DD clutch, NP271 w/SYE, D60 HP front, high steer, 16" coilovers & 4-link, D80 w/disc rear, 4.10's & LSD, spinning 38" x 14.fiddy's on classic slots..... more coming!
Thunderfoot wrote:
The problem I see with what you have there and sort/part of what I think Eric is leading to, is the way you have that one mounted in the picture, if the Heim fails in the center it will pop off and leave the bolt holding the center part there. You need to have a thick flat washer that is the same diameter as the outside of the Heim.
I used a washer on the heims I used on the tie-rod of my jeep in the same fashion that Thunderfoot is talking about. I was questioning the same thing Eric is when I put that set-up together. I've had zero issues so far and have no expectation of an issue in the future with it. The jeep does however see very little street time. I've also used this method on a converted postal jeep. It has seen more street time with no problems either. IMO-Use good bolts and a washer and you shouldn't have any problems.
Some good information here. Always good to have another set of eyes looking at things!
I will look into this SCCA washer.... Is that a rating or "style" of washer used in SCCA venues? But I guess that if the bolt itself fails then no washer will have been of much help.
'69 Ford Cummins Crew Cab... Built 6BT main & head studs, ported & oringed head, springs, Ti retainers, marine cam, tweaked P7100, 4K gov kit, NV4500 w/1.375" input, Southbend 3600# DD clutch, NP271 w/SYE, D60 HP front, high steer, 16" coilovers & 4-link, D80 w/disc rear, 4.10's & LSD, spinning 38" x 14.fiddy's on classic slots..... more coming!
Yep..The washer only helps if the Heim fails. Grade 8 fine thread bolt should have no more problems with failure than a regular tie rod end I wouldn't think....Although I'm sure someone will have a different opinion..
So wouldn't this single shear force be applied directly to the bolt used as the shear force would be inline of the heim, which is it's strongest configuration? I'm not seeing any other directional forces being applied in this application, other than if it gets hit by some other force.
There I go thinking again.....
'69 Ford Cummins Crew Cab... Built 6BT main & head studs, ported & oringed head, springs, Ti retainers, marine cam, tweaked P7100, 4K gov kit, NV4500 w/1.375" input, Southbend 3600# DD clutch, NP271 w/SYE, D60 HP front, high steer, 16" coilovers & 4-link, D80 w/disc rear, 4.10's & LSD, spinning 38" x 14.fiddy's on classic slots..... more coming!
Yes you can. The dodge 29 spline 205's are big bearing and ford mated cases are big bearing too. You can put the dodge input in the ford case and redrill the ford t-case to match the dodge adapter.
The downside is the dodge iron adapter hangs down too far and all the bolt holes don't get used. You also have to plug the unused holes with 1/8" pipe plugs. It looks funny too.
A slightly better route to take is sell the 29 spline dodge 205 for a bundle of cash, buy a new 2wd dodge NV4500 mainshaft and take it to an outfit that can cut splines in hardened steel, anyplace that makes custom axleshafts or 205/203 doubler setups. Have them cut ford 31 spline splines into the dodge mainshaft and cut it to the right length for Ford. Stick it back in and your Ford 205 bolts right up to the NV4500.
averagef250 wrote:
A slightly better route to take is sell the 29 spline dodge 205 for a bundle of cash, buy a new 2wd dodge NV4500 mainshaft and take it to an outfit that can cut splines in hardened steel, anyplace that makes custom axleshafts or 205/203 doubler setups. Have them cut ford 31 spline splines into the dodge mainshaft and cut it to the right length for Ford. Stick it back in and your Ford 205 bolts right up to the NV4500.
Hey Dustin.... thats one heck of a great idea! I will have to put this on my things to do list. I need to pull this tranny at a latter date to install a 1-3/8" input shaft and I will look at this project at that time. I was going to get an updated main shaft anyway... I'll just hold off and get a 2wd shaft.
'69 Ford Cummins Crew Cab... Built 6BT main & head studs, ported & oringed head, springs, Ti retainers, marine cam, tweaked P7100, 4K gov kit, NV4500 w/1.375" input, Southbend 3600# DD clutch, NP271 w/SYE, D60 HP front, high steer, 16" coilovers & 4-link, D80 w/disc rear, 4.10's & LSD, spinning 38" x 14.fiddy's on classic slots..... more coming!
