My 72 Sport Custom F100 (Shes alive!) 10-21-2010

[1971ford]

SWEET!

im ordering over $250 worth of POR products (engine painting kit, 4 quarts of POR-15, plenty Metal Ready, brushes etc.) this very second, your post makes me more anxious to get them and to get started!

[OldRedFord]

Another update...

Bought a sandblaster, thought it would be a easier way to go with cleaning parts up instead of a wire wheel and wire brush. Im glad I went this route, shure gets in tight places better.

Spent Friday afternoon cleaning up the rear end. Will do a final blasting and then start painting with Por-15 today.

Pics....









Before....



The sandblaster I picked up is a 90# gravity fed unit from Tractor Supply, seems to be a pretty good deal at $100




Next move after the rear end is painted is to replace the brakes on it. Even got new drums from LMC. Then put it back in the truck, replace the brake cables, and then it will be time to move on to the engine and transmission.

Another update for the day.

Axle is painted up now....

[mrsnicks]

What type/size compressor are you using to run that sandblaster?

Looks good. Thinking about getting one myself but not sure my compressor is up to the challenge.


Patrick

[OldRedFord]

What type/size compressor are you using to run that sandblaster?

Looks good. Thinking about getting one myself but not sure my compressor is up to the challenge.


Patrick

I have a 80 gallon one I bought at Lowes for $650ish, made by Campbell Hausfeld, rated at 16 cfm at 90 psi I belive.

And today I finished up the rear end, now all that is left is to blast the spring brackets on the frame and the U bolts and spring shackles.





Having it on that hand truck has been a life saver.

[BobbyFord]

That "crusty old 9" has a nodular pumpkin...

[67mann]

That "crusty old 9" has a nodular pumpkin...

First off-- lookin good ORF--definatly agree with the sandblast route
as long as you got the compressor to support it(my first one didn't make it )while your doing it.

I gotta ask--- nodular pumkin--what does that mean

[OldRedFord]

That "crusty old 9" has a nodular pumpkin...

First off-- lookin good ORF--definatly agree with the sandblast route
as long as you got the compressor to support it(my first one didn't make it )while your doing it.

I gotta ask--- nodular pumkin--what does that mean

Taken from a Mustang & Fast Fords article....

The highly sought-after 9-inch "N" case was born of a need for a super-durable 9-inch casting that could take the punishment of both NASCAR circle track and NHRA drag racing. The "N" stands for "nodular iron" case, indicating the solid iron material used. At a glance, the "N" is the quickest way to identify the nodular-iron 9-inch case. But, not all "N" cases received the "N" marking in the casting. Look for the C2AW-A, C4AW-B, and D0OW-B casting numbers when the "N" is missing. Another strong clue for the "N" case is 31-spline axle hubs and shafts. But, finding 31-spline hubs and shafts does not always mean you've found an "N" case. This is why your homework must be thorough. All of the elements of an "N" case must add up.

And from another site....

The N stands for nodular iron, which is made by adding magnesium to molten iron. What this does is change the grain structure from flakes to nodules - much stronger and less likely to fail under shear load.

Hmmm....now I need to start another thread

[convincor]

I caught the N case to.. Nice to have..
Not a bad deal on that blaster, saves a ton on work and much cleaner than the wire wheel thing..
I've got a pressure feed blaster that a friend let me "store" for him.
He hadn't used it for a couple years and probably won't for a couple more.. What nice with the pressure feed is you can regulate the flow of sand. Surprizing how little needs to be flowing to get parts stripped.
He may not get it back...
FYI, i'm using a 6.5 hp 60 gallon compressor from Lowes.

[rjewkes]

my Tiny one i think its a kaufman 6 gallon 8cfm@90.

Don't think it will do paint but short bursts with the sandblaster seems ok.

probably buy a bigger one around christmass.

[OldRedFord]

Got the rear end back in. Just have to repace the shocks and route the new parking brake cables.

[OldRedFord]

Update:

Engine is at the machine shop. Having it hot tanked, and new cam bearings and freeze plugs put in. Discovered one rusted up cylinder. Looks like the engine may have to be bored out. Machinist also said the crank looked warn also (this after just unloading the engine)

See here....

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... hp?t=34335

Sense Im going this far, Im probably going to have head work done. Read up on what it would take to get 400+ hp. With the stock heads I have (d3ve) he exauhst valves should be changed to 1.75" valves, and a full porting and polish job done, and 3 angle valve job. Read that with that work, and the .520 lift cam and headers, and intake, Ill be looking at 425-450 hp and 520-530ft lbs of torque.

Tire burner!

[1971ford]

Read that with that work, and the .520 lift cam and headers, and intake, Ill be looking at 425-450 hp and 520-530ft lbs of torque.

Tire burner!

at the crank.......... or the tires
will you have a engine powered fan (manual fan? i dont know what there called), PS and AC? that will lower the numbers too ofcourse

im going to have to internet race you or something once my 429 is in the lightweight desert truck

[OldRedFord]

Mechanical fan stating out, when I get the extra cash Ill go electric. Yes power steering, no a/c tho.

[BobbyFord]

That "crusty old 9" has a nodular pumpkin...

...big bearing, 31 spline, too.

[OldRedFord]

Bought another 460 and C6 from a 1975 Lincon. My other engine needs a new crank and atleast 2 new rods. So for $150 for this combo, I think Im doing better.

The transmission has the right brackets I need. Also would have to have bought a starter and matching alternator brackets and engine pullys. All that is solved now.

Pics





Newish starter