MLJJONES67 PROJECT CUMMINS put away for winter

mljjones67 · Post by **mljjones67** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 1:00 pm

The cougar is getting a new body, soon as I find one! Hopefully soon.

mljjones67 · Post by **mljjones67** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 2:17 pm

deleted

averagef250 · Post by **averagef250** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 7:49 pm

Go for it!

boots · Post by **boots** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 7:54 pm

averagef250 wrote:Go for it!

Yes, go for it!!

mljjones67 · Post by **mljjones67** » Tue Mar 25, 2008 9:56 pm

$100 a good price?? What should I look for when i see it in person??

mljjones67 · Post by **mljjones67** » Wed Mar 26, 2008 2:40 am

Are the Chebby and ford np205 the same? There are three or four for sale right now each?

averagef250 · Post by **averagef250** » Wed Mar 26, 2008 9:22 am

No, they are different. Ford is driver drop, 31 spline input and 32 spline output front and rear. $100 is fair. If you can, try to get the shifter and linkage with it too. The shifter bolts up to the ZF and saves some hassle down the road.

mljjones67 · Post by **mljjones67** » Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:29 pm

Ok will do
thanks

mljjones67 · Post by **mljjones67** » Sat Mar 29, 2008 4:20 pm

Picked up a 6bt today. Here is some pics.

Its going to need a new timing cover and a new oil pan.

mljjones67 · Post by **mljjones67** » Sat Mar 29, 2008 4:22 pm

I will bring it home on tuesday and get some better picks.
Going to get a new engine stand that will hold that bugger! Any suggestions?

460 crew · Post by **460 crew** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 2:21 am

Sweet

averagef250 · Post by **averagef250** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 2:25 pm

Looks like a 93 auto motor. Cool! You'll have to build your own engine stand or work on it on the floor. You can buy industrial diesel stands, but they are very spendy. The bare 5.9 block weighs more than a dressed small block.

NEVER BOLT A 5.9 CUMMINS TO AN ENGINE STAND WITH THE BLACK ADAPTER (like it is in your picture)! The block adapter will not take the weight, an engine stand has to be bolted straight to the block.

If you pull the exhaust manifold you can lay the engine flat on it's side with a few wood blocks to get it high enough for the oil filter adapter to clear the ground. Like this you can get to just about everything.

Replacing the timing cover isn't too bad, but you will have to pull the cam and injection pump. Put the engine at #1 TDC on the compression stroke and scribe clear marks across the cam and IP gears before you remove them. Also make sure the IP referrence mark lines up, if it doesn't, scribe a new one. Make sure you lock the pump shaft before you loosen the nuts that hold it on.

The first thing you should do is either buy a B series Cummins workshop manual or download it off the web. The link to download it is in the stickies in the main forum at 4BTswaps.com.

mljjones67 · Post by **mljjones67** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 4:01 pm

Yeah Dustin I would never do that. I don't have an engine stand yet. I have looked at the 2000lbs one for $109.00 I definitely want it up where I can work on it! Thanks for the links to download the workshop manuals.

The motor come out a 91 auto 4x4. I guess the guy nose dived the truck into a ditch ripped the front end off the truck. The oil pan is pretty dented up but no holes. The crank scrapes it just a hair. I will get a new one for it. I just looked up the timing cover on ebay and there is one for $20.00 plus shipping of $12.50. I need to make sure it is the right one though. Are they pretty much the same for all years?? I will go find the link and post it in a minute. The auction closes soon so I need to find out soon

mljjones67 · Post by **mljjones67** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 4:03 pm

Here are the ones I have found. The first seems to be a good deal!!
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dl ... category0=

averagef250 · Post by **averagef250** » Sun Mar 30, 2008 4:45 pm

None of those are what you need. You need two parts, first you definitely need the timing housing and second you probably need the cover too. Looks like your vacuum pump is also cracked pretty good. The vacuum pump could probably be welded pretty easily.

The parts have to be from an 89-93 dodge engine or you can use them from a a rotary or CAV pump 4BT/6BT as long as you know for sure it's a rotary or CAV pump.

I figured the engine you have was a 93 since I've only seen the 93's with the IP mounted TPS.

If that's a 91 it's actually a 91.5. The early 91's were not intercooled like yours is. Yours is the first 12 valve to use the good 7MM injectors. The downside is in stock form the 91.5 and 92 dodge 5.9's are the lowest output and most sluggish cummins engines ever made. They were the first ones to be factory intercooled in pickups and in order to keep the power down enough to not blow the rest of the truck apart they used a gigantic 18.5CM turbine housing on the turbo. These engines are usually real sluggish with stock fueling and don't build much boost at all. The turbo is the only downside though, put on a smaller exhaust housing or just upgrade the whole turbo and you'll have a potent setup.

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MLJJONES67 PROJECT CUMMINS put away for winter

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