69 Harness Help

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RandyM
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69 Harness Help

Post by RandyM »

Hello, I am attempting to rewire my 69 F100 using a 14 circuit harness from Kwik Wire. I have been struggling with finding accurate reference on which wires (labeled and colored) to connect to the ignition switch, alternator etc. The Kwik Wire harness is of good quality and I like the way they build their fuse box with a coil kill switch etc. However, their manual is somewhat generic when it comes to specific set-ups of various trucks.

Can anyone share how to connect which wire to the 6-blade ignition switch shown below? I have stared at diagrams and dug through pages of manuals but I'm discovering conflicting wire colors as well as certain wiring updates that are no longer needed or necessary with a modern harness.

I may be searching for someone in the Omaha, NE area to use as a consultant. The wiring harness is kicking me pretty good. My goal is to get it running before snow flies.

I appreciate any and all insights.

Truck specs: Built July 1969 in San Jose CA. Parts # matching original 302/3 on tree. (I grew up learning to drive in a 68 /360 / 4 speed)
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sargentrs
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Re: 69 Harness Help

Post by sargentrs »

That switch is not a '69 switch, they had round pins. Blade terminals started with the 1970+, at least I think that's the break. Wiring changed slightly with the 1970 and up models, mostly due to the running lights being on when the headlights are on and the addition of side marker lights. Wire colors changed in that same time frame. Do you still have your old ignition switch harness plug? That will help some. The main circuits are the constant hot coming in at your terminal #5 and your start/run terminal. That's where your old plug comes in handy. Hard to orient your switch terminals to either the '69 or the '70 diagrams from your photo. Your old pigtail will have 2 wires going into the same terminal, pink (resistor wire) and blue(?). That is your start/run terminal. I believe it's your #1 and #4 but can't be certain. Once we have that figured out, we can orient the plug to the diagrams. One way to check would be to connect a voltmeter (set to continuity check/ohms) to your #5 and then turn the key to start and check for continuity to #1 and #4 then release the key to the run position and check again. You should have continuity to both in start but only one in run. That would tell you which of those 2 terminals is which. Then perform the same check with the key turned to the ACC position. That will give you that circuit (probably #2). The other terminals provide power to the lights, wipers, instrument cluster, etc determined by the headlight switch, wiper switch and turn signal switch pulling power from the #5, #4 or #2 pins, depending on whether it's switched either/or #4 or #2 (turn signals. radio, heater, etc) or constant hot (headlights, dash lights, brake lights, etc). Make sense?
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
RandyM
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Re: 69 Harness Help

Post by RandyM »

SargentRS,

Thanks for reply. Yes, it's not an original '69 switch. It's a replacement of the round pin switch. This is one of the factors that's making this the challenge that it is....

I do have the original plug (there are no markings on it) Thanks for your thoughts on testing. I will try testing those combinations. Hopefully, doing so can start to zero in on what wire connects to what.

The hot #5 would come from positive side of starter solenoid?

Again, thanks for the prompt reply of ideas.
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sargentrs
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Re: 69 Harness Help

Post by sargentrs »

Originally it came from the fuse panel and spliced into the headlight switch. Wires #21, 25 and 37A. As long as it's a constant hot source it's fine. Are there any wires hanging from your original plug? Using those wire colors oriented to the pins would give us a better starting point.
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Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: 69 Harness Help

Post by RandyM »

Continuity test results.

When switch is in start/run: #5, #2 and #6 blades are live.

When switch is in ACC: #5 and #6 are live.

I presume that this means #2 is the start blade and #6 is for run.

#1, #3 and #4 are for radio, turn signals, heater etc.
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Re: 69 Harness Help

Post by RandyM »

Continuity test results.

When switch is on/run position #5, #2 and #6 are "hot"

When switch is on ACC position #5, #6 are "hot"

I presume this means that #1, #4, #3 are for radio, turn signals, heater, etc.
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sargentrs
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Re: 69 Harness Help

Post by sargentrs »

Ok, I think I've got it. Looking at the '70 Diagram http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... master.jpg I think I have it oriented correctly.

# 5 = wire 21
# 3 = wire 32
# 2 = wires 16/932 (spliced together)
# 6 = wire 297/97 (spliced together)
# 4 = wire 977
# 1 = no wire/pass through

Now all we goota do is figure out which wire matches up to which circuit. What does the KwikWire diagram say goes where on the switch?
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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