1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 7/9 rubicon

[koch68]

Is it possible to do that cross over without highsteer? If my truck is stock hight just going to put stock super duty springs in the front.

[1971ford]

No you need the high steer arms so you can put the drag link and tie rod both on the knuckle directly. Then you need your knuckles drilled and tapped. And new steering. I spent a good $700.
Stock super duty springs arnt worth the work at all IMO. Might even lower your truck, and these springs aren't a direct swap.

[koch68]

I know that they aren't a direct swap. But im looking for the ride difference. Not so much lift I would like to put in 35s eventually and I have the springs. Also I have a cummins rebuild going on right now. so what i a m trying to figure out is if i add the bottom leafs from my highboy springs like you did and put them on i will get the lift for 35s on the front? also my front doesnt have stock spring pads and are about 1/2 inch taller then stock ones. and for the rear do add a leaf and air bags for purposes. and it should sit level right? is trial and error the best way to go. i fully read your superduty spring swap thread.

[BigBlueF250]

35's will fit without a lift at all. I ended up lowering the rear of mine an inch to level it out.

[1971ford]

Correct, stock springs should clear 35's unless they're very badly sagged. Stock superduty leaf packs with highboy leafs added should easily clear 35's.

Operation highboy resurrection is in full swing! No more tinkering once a month. Ranger doesn't want to be street legal anymore so now i don't have a car anymore. And summer is coming... which brings camping trips, the rubicon, the lake, etc.



Had to whip this tool up so i could pull the fan.


Stripped the Cummins down. Also stripped the valve covers to raw aluminum.
Going in for a deep cleaning, paint and polishing! So many people asked if i'd pop the hood when it on the road, i figure it better be presentable.

Also went in to do the KDP fix. KDP hadn't moved at all.

[koch68]

Ok superduty springs combined with highboy pack it is. What exactly does the kdp do? That's the one thing on my motor I was wondering about

[koch68]

No you need the high steer arms so you can put the drag link and tie rod both on the knuckle directly. Then you need your knuckles drilled and tapped. And new steering. I spent a good $700.
Stock super duty springs arnt worth the work at all IMO. Might even lower your truck, and these springs aren't a direct swap.

so why cant i just leave the tie rod in its place below the springs and then just get right side knuckle machined and buy an arm for it and build a new drag link going from the steering box to the new arm and leave the tie rod to save money on the high steer part. i know a machinist that would help me out.

[1971ford]

KDP fix is Killer Dowel Pin. There is a dowel pin behind the front case that is known to work its way out on every 12v Cummins (all years). If it comes out you can count on your Cummins self destructing as the dowel pin falls into the cluster of gears beneath it. You dont know know how safe or hose lose to mayhem you are unless you pull it apart and fix it.
Sounds like you want to leave the tie rod low steer and buy a high steer passenger side arm and have just a high steer drag link... I suppose that would work to save a few bucks. Personally i'd spend the extra money and go full high steer. The stock tie rod location/strength is a joke in my opinion. If you go offroad the chances of you snagging something on that low hanging tie rod is very good, leaving you with wheels pointed at each other. Been there done that. Was in a dirt lot and tagged a tree branch. Bent my tie rod in. Does your buddy have experience machining knuckles?

[austin]

very nice i was going to request pictures of the dodge steering box and your motor mounts but you already posted them im thinking when i start a cummins swap i will put on a 3 inch body lift just so i have a little more room i also have acess to a powerstroke parts truck. i can have anything off of it execpt the dana 60 front end i might just use the steering gear off it and maybe the whole steering collum but thats enough of my life story

oh and 35s do fit i have hudwag q78s wich is very close to 35s on mine right now they fit but they rub on the drag link if i turn right to far

[koch68]

Well my cummins is completely torn apart right now. how do you fix this problem. I know right where it is behind the pump. And what is its purpose being there? And on the machining I don't know if he had done them I was just going to ask. How hard would it be to build my own cross over plate assuming I have the mill at school and all the good stuff.

[Art]

Well my cummins is completely torn apart right now. how do you fix this problem. I know right where it is behind the pump. And what is its purpose being there? And on the machining I don't know if he had done them I was just going to ask.

The timing pin is the only pin I know of 'behind the pump' and that is not the KDP. The timing pin is used to locate TDC on #1 cylinder's compression stroke.

The KDP is one of the dowel pins used to align the timing case to the front of the engine block. The particular dowel pin referred to as the KDP is located between the injection pump gear and the fan idler mount location, over the camshaft gear, and of course under the timing case cover. If it were to come out, chances are it will get caught by the cam gear and punch a hole through the timing case. Sometimes it gets lodged in the teeth of the cam gear, and that makes a big problem when it comes around to the crank gear - usually resulting in total catastrophic engine failure (broken camshaft, pistons hitting valves, etc...).

I read all 'B' series engines (12V and 24V 6BT as well as the 4BT) manufactured before 2003 can have the KDP problem. It wasn't until a different version of the timing case was made (the CR engines?) that the KDP is positively retained with a stepped pin bore. It seems that the KDP is most likely to strike on the engines with the inline "P" injection pump.

There are a couple solutions to make sure the KDP stays put. I prefer to pull the timing cover to be able to see everything inside, install the tab, and check the torque on the other fasteners in there (sometimes they are loose). KDP tabs are available from many sources. Here is the tab I installed on my DD right after I bought the truck:

[koch68]

Oh ok i was mistaken I get exactly what it is now. That little piece is simple enough to fabricate. 71ford sorry for taking over your thread haha.

[1971ford]

Austin somewhere in this thread should be better pictures. Engine mounts are simple enough. Cut the stock mounts on the cummins and converted it to a polyurethane mount setup and plated that bushing tube to the frame. I am currently revising the mounts a little, though.
Power steering box wasn't too bad either. Plated the frame in on the other side, made bolt sleeves (so the boxed frame can't crush in) and after getting it in just the right spot, welded it all up!


Yeah KDP seems to be a p pump thing for the most part but why risk it. Mine hadn't moved at all but I punched the case on the edge of the hole to keep it from ever coming out. The tab is another nice way to do it.

[1971ford]

[68fordguy]

Great build read the whole thing on here and on desert rangers. Once the warm weather hits the east coast this spring I'm going to tear down my 250 and basically do the same thing minus the cummins swap ( wish I could but the moneys not there now (priorities) ). Question, were you ever able to get the dimensions for the front crossmember/spring hanger deal, with the reese hitch? And did you drop the springs at all lower when you did that, to bring up the front end? Didn't think you needed to because you already did your sd spring lift?
Thanks again and great job man!