I'm giving up ... trouble with the flabby gear arm on my Ford F100 automat

[johnny55]

sargentrs
I'll buy a new pin and try to put it in? because it's not quite tight. Oh, when I've missed a screw that holds the plunger ... .hum can this be the fault? Thank you for your photos now, I understand better. I'll try to see if I can get a new pin and screw and we'll see.
Is just so tired of the car right now. Have so much to get ready and do.
Lift up the carpet on the floor and saw that there were big mess holes on the side. Suck. now it will be welding and working with this as well. When I was under the car, I only saw a small rusted hole, but it was not a little under the carpet.
But right now, I just want to make the gear arm work perfectly.
need to feel a bit of joy and things get well on the car. I have no garage so I can get out and work with the car

[sargentrs]

I totally understand your frustration! I started my project over 7 years ago and not a day goes by that I don't think about what needs to be done. However, time and money are in short supply for me these days and other life priorities are more important. I'll get back to it when I'm able to. Just keep working on it as time permits and take pride in little accomplishments. It's not the destination that counts, it's the journey!

[johnny55]

sargentrs Here comes movies so you see what it looks like now. Must change the pin tomorrow because it is a little loose. You see it in the movie. P is stable but N and D are not stable without waking as you see. It's just so strange that it's like this ...

https://youtu.be/aHgfNgSJKLw

[johnny55]

thanks for those words sargentrs.
7 years puhhh long time. I'm just an amateur but I like my pickup even when it feels heavy and there's a lot of trouble. but I'm learning and thank for all the help here. Has no garage so i work with the car when it goes. having V8 here in Sweden costs a lot. And getting spare parts costs twice as much when I have to order from USA and take time. so no cheap hobby for me. we have a car survey every two years and it is important that it goes well there otherwise it will be driving ban. do not know how to spell in English. but it's a struggle, so my pickup will get ready and I can get back on the road and drive with a happy smile again.

[sargentrs]

The pin in the shift handle is not the source of the slack in your shift collar. Replacing the pin will reduce the wobble in your handle but won't solve your sloppy shift collar. Look at the picture below.

#1 The bottom of the shift tube sits in this bracket in the bottom of your column.
#2 The top of the shift tube sits in this sleeve on the underside of your shift collar. It sits firmly in the sleeve. You should not be able to remove your shift collar without the shift tube coming out with it. To remove the shift tube from the collar, you have to twist it while pulling firmly.
#3 The lower column shift lever has a slot that the tab on the shift tube slides through.
#4 The tab on the shift tube sits in the shift lever.

The lower shift lever should not be able to move top to bottom, only swing up and down when the column is shifted. The transmission linkage rod connects to the shift lever. Something is loose in one of those areas. Have someone help while you check a couple of things. You should not be able to twist your shift collar by hand without moving the lower shift lever. Hold the bottom lever while your friend twists the shift collar. If the collar moves and the lever doesn't, then your shift tube is not firmly seated in the shift collar or maybe the tab on the bottom of the shift tube has it's spot welds broken and is wobbling around or the slot in the lower lever has become oversized. If the shift collar and the lever move solidly as a unit, is your linkage rod moving and not the transmission lever? Or is there slack in your transmission lever and everything is working but your transmission lever is wobbling? The shift handle, shift collar, shift tube, lower lever, linkage rod and transmission lever should be solidly connected and move as a unit. If not, one of those unit connections has slack in it.

[johnny55]

Sargent! Now it became a bit difficult to understand.
I've had the whole steering column and at the bottom of it I have no such # 1 as your picture? (# 1 The bottom of the shift tube) There is only one layer in the sluice there. (See my picture on page 3)
# 3 The lower column shift lever has a slot that slides the tab on the shift tube. It seems good when I checked it when I had the whole steering wheel out? Now it became difficult. please try again to explain in an easier way how to test so I can find the error. Do I have to remove the whole steering column again ... suck.

(# 2 The top of the shift tube sits in this sleeve on the underside of your shift collar. It sits firmly in the sleeve. You should not be able to remove)
I do not understand this. How do you mean? I know when I had to put it back I had to turn and push it into a track and then I screwed it tight with those two stupid screws sitting in a slot on the back ?? Could it be where the fault is? how can i do to see this ??

(# 4 The tab on the shift tube sits in the shift lever) Here I think it's ok. But how should I test if it's wrong there?
There were still many questions for you today again.It's hard for me to understand the translation sometimes, so I'd rather ask for too much time.
This seems to be a difficult problem to solve ...
but I will solve this until the end.

[sargentrs]

No need to remove your column to test.

You do have #1. It's in the bottom of your column housing, in the engine compartment, and it's the bracket that holds the lower column bearing. In the photo below, you can see my shift tube laying loosely in it.

(# 2 The top of the shift tube sits in this sleeve on the underside of your shift collar. It sits firmly in the sleeve. You should not be able to remove)
I do not understand this. How do you mean? I know when I had to put it back I had to turn and push it into a track and then I screwed it tight with those two stupid screws sitting in a slot on the back ?? Could it be where the fault is? how can i do to see this ?? My apologies, I spoke wrong. The shift tube needs to slide up and down freely.

As I mentioned earlier the shift collar, shift tube, lower shift lever and linkage rod all act as one unit. All I am recommending is for you hold one piece still while you try to move the other pieces to determine where the slop is coming from.

[johnny55]

thanks again sargentrs. I think I have to take a break now. I feel I do not get it with the column, shift coller. so little rest from this and then on again. I want to fix it. so I have to start with some other work on picku. and work is haha. The floor should be welded on the driver's side. Then when all this is done, I will go on the steering wheel and shift lever, column. I'll probably ask you questions and solutions if it's ok for you. have a good evening.

[sargentrs]

Of course!

[johnny55]

Sargent. can i adjust this one? how do I? it is stuck hard. or I can not do it.

[Ranchero50]

Should be a standard 12 point socket, 3/4" I think and if so a 19mm should work.

BTW, it took my 8 years and five trucks to get mine built the way I wanted it.

[sargentrs]

There is no adjusting it. It's either tight or not. Any adjusts are made at the hinges when setting the door.

[Ranchero50]

There is no adjusting it. It's either tight or not. Any adjusts are made at the hinges when setting the door.

Um, yes there is.

It's just a goofy looking bolt that screws into a plate that sandwiches the cab metal between them. There's actually a good bit of adjustment there.

[sargentrs]

I stand corrected! Thanks for setting me straight, Jamie.
Adjust away!

[johnny55]

Ok but how do I adjust door lock striker? Just screw it down and lower it or raise it? Is it not just stuck in a fixed bolt on the back?