Ok king pin bearing on the passenger side got real crunchy, and made the stearing pretty stiff. So king pin replacement time.
Only trouble ( well not the only trouble ) is the dam pin wont come out. I have beat worse then a rented mule, used map gas to heat the hell out of it. Yet all I could get is about 1/8th of an inch worth of movement. I figured since the king pin is not tapered I would putting a short piece of bar on the bottom end and use a jack to push it out the top. Well I was able to lift the the truck off the jack stand with zero movement.
Any tips for getting this out? The other side should be a breeze. I can that wheel by hand.
I have correct reamer and everything. Just need the bugger out of there.
Sounds like the shaft is galled in the bushing. Might have to take it loose at the I-beam pivot point, remove the whole beam/spindle assy and take it somewhere with a big enough hydraulic press. Short of that you can drive it up/down until you have some clear and take a die grinder and shave off some around the diameter. Then tap it back down and grind the diameter down on the other end. Then back and forth until you can progressively get more and more movement up and down. If there's room, can you get to the top of the bushing with a drill? Take a small drill bit and try to drill down the edge of the bushing like cutting a slice in it? Not big enough to drill into the side of the spindle, just the bushing. Idk, just throwing stuff out there. I took my assemblies to a machine shop and they did it all when I swapped in disc brake spindles. $150 labor and worth every penny.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
Yeah the more I futsed with it that is what I am leaning towards. Taking the spindle and I beam for someone to do. So I get to make phone calls bright and early on Friday.
1/8 of inch isn't enough to get it above the threads of ware the grease cap screws in. So I can't grind it. I'm less concerned about the drill bit slipping and hitting the king pin. It's harden so I risk it getting deflected into the cast iron spindle.
The other side should be a ton easier. With the drag link disconnected from the pass side the stearing whell moves with one finger. So this side is deffinetly the one that was causing my problems. It got me through winter so I'm thankfull for that. The bearing that takes the I beam load is seriously crunchy and stutters. Whith wheel off the spindle wont even budge. It wont even let the stearing recenter after turning. Lol
I did the king pins on my '69 F250, which I no longer have, 7 years ago. I took them in to a local clutch and brake shop. They pressed out the old pins, reamed for the new ones, and installed them for $55. If you don't have a shop that does that sort of work on light duty vehicles, a heavy truck shop may be able to do it for you as a lot of those still use king pins. Good luck!
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."
Red Green
The only problem is that services like that are only available in certain parts of the country now. King pin work is a dying art. Before I started this on my own I researched who in my area could do it. None of the repair shops are willing to do it. A few of the heavy truck shops are willing to work on a smaller truck, but they want serious cash to do the whole thing. 2 of them quoted between $200 and $300. They have nice king pin presses that do the job right on the truck. A machine shop that can do engine work is even harder to find nowa days.
Getting the pin pressed out is doable. I can find a shop that is willing to do that for pretty cheap. All though I have a line on a nice 12 ton press. Do you think 12 tons will do the trick? It would save my 1992 Camaro from being the gressy parts runner. I'm likely to just get the press any way. I have other uses for it.
I've done dozens over the years, when the pin is stuck in the axle beam I make sure the jack stand is directly under the beam as close as you can get to the kingpin. My air hammer will knock it right out. Sometimes a large sledge will be needed to start the pin moving. Any penetrating oil will help also.
1967 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
Another 67 F-100 4x4 custom cab.
2016 F-150 Eco-Boost 2.7 liter. (It will smoke the tires!)
1972 F-350 Sport Custom cab & chassis.
1972 F-250 Explorer Special, Camper Special.
1971 F-100 custom. 302, C-4, p.s. p.b. factory 65 amp alternator with transistorized voltage regulator.
Yeah I all ways give a nice wide stance to my jack stands when I jack front end up.
I actualy think the bushings are not grabing the pin. It looks like the bearing between the I beam and lower bushing is so buggerd up that it is the culprit. It's a bit hard to tell, but it may have been put in upside down by a PO. Which would allow water into it.
A bigger hamer is going to be impossible to swing with it on the truck. I was using a 5 lbs hamer to beat on it. Anything bigger and I wont get a decent swing without providing new dents in the fender. Lol
So I'm going to pick up the 12 ton press today. I need a break from it any way. My body is complaining. If it's not enough to press it out there's a shop down the road with a bigger press. They just have no clue how to ream the bushings. The press will come in handy either way.
It was hard to find a shop capable of doing it, but I got lucky up here in my area. I cleaned up the whole undercarriage myself, provided the Moog kingpins set and drove it to the garage. A few days later - new kingpins, -what a pleasure.
No it wasn’t cheap, but what major truck repair job is?
I had them do the kingpins, I-beam bushings, and a new set of shocks all at the same time since they had to take everything out to do the kingpins. If you can scrape up the bucks, do yourself a favor and take it to a competent shop.
(They told me there was a seized-up kingpin as well).
Any excuse to buy a hydraulic press is a good excuse!
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
The guy ended up having a 20 ton for sale for just a little more. So I got that one.
20 ton should be more then enough to press the bugger out of there. So depending on how stuck that lower spring perch bolt is I should have a happy update tomarrow.
I'm pretty confidant in my skills to rebuild the front end. I have done it on other cars. I just couldn't believe how stuck this pin is. The stearing was stiff, but not that stiff. So I will be getting new I beam, and radius arm bushings out of the deal as well. The shocks are not that old. I put some load assit shocks on both front and rear a while back. The kind with thier own additional spring. They still appear in great shape. No leaks, no excessive bounce, etc. Just a little rust on the springs.
I do plan on replacing the tie rod and drag link. They appear all most original, or least older then me. That part will have to wait till next month. They are still functional, and don't appear to have any slop in them.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
Well I would have had a happy update yesterday. Stuck bolts and rain got in my way.
So far today i broke out the right handed nut F'er and busted the lower shock bolt in 2. Yes that was planed. Lol far to chunky to reuse it. Removed the spring. Boy what fun that was. That nut has been on there since it was built. Found out the upper spring strap rusted through years ago. Suprisingly the bolt and nuts that held the 2 pieces on turned easy inspite of the cakey rust on them. I just wasn't ready to need a spring compressor to remove the spring. I'm used to my Camaro. Place jack under the A arm, release the mounts and slowly lower the jack. A little work with a pry bar and some stupidity. Err I mean bravery. Yeah that's the word. Lol and I had that spring out in a few minutes.
Taking a break for a bit. Then it's on to the nut that holds the I beam to the radius arm, and the other bolt holding the I beam on the other side. 2 bolts to go, 2 bolts to go. Lol
Then I get to play with my new shop press. What PITA.
I beam and spindal are out as a unit. Taking yet another brake so I don't rush things and bugger it up.
Who ever I see that speaks of removing the I beams as just trival matter again, I will buy a plane ticket so we can discuss the finer points of doing it. Technicaly easy, yes. Practicaly it's a challanging job.
All though when get to that last bolt at the I beam pviot point and it works like a well trained toilet. It's a thing of beauty knowing you don't have another 30 minutes beating on a wrench with a 3 lbs hamer on your side.
It's a no go. 20 tons is not enough. I cranked on that handle until it wouldn't move anymore. Didn't even budge it. Tried heat while under preasure, and generous pb. Hell it's been soaking in pb for 3 days.
So on Monday i'll see who I can get that has a stronger press to get this guy out.
Once I finished up I'll post pic's and instruction on how to ream them. I saw the C&T piolted reamer mentioned several times on here, but no ome seemed brave enough to get one. Well I have on. So a write is in the works once this pin is out.
) is the dam pin wont come out. I have beat worse then a rented mule, used map gas to heat the hell out of it. Yet all I could get is about 1/8th of an inch worth of movement. I figured since the king pin is not tapered I would putting a short piece of bar on the bottom end and use a jack to push it out the top. Well I was able to lift the the truck off the jack stand with zero movement. 
Technicaly easy, yes. Practicaly it's a challanging job.