1974 F100 Steering Column problems

[Jim Z]

Working on a 1974 F100 with A/T that had no horn, no turn signal return, and hard column shifting.
When I removed the steering wheel and grounded the spring loaded post, the horn worked. So maybe a problem in the steering wheel rings.

The t/s return problem was obvious, there was nothing there to nudge the plastic arms back to center. Ordered a return cam from LMC but it had much too large of ID to fit on the shaft. According to all the parts breakdowns I can find, there's supposed to be a stout spring just under the steering wheel that perhaps that cam could ride on, but alas when adding the spring the steering wheel stayed about 1/2 from the collar.

Finally the hard shifting appears due to metal on metal between the upper and lower flanges, what I call the shift collar and stationary piece. There seems like there should be a thrust bearing between the two, but as yet have been unable to locate.

At this point, I'd like to find a good used steering column that hopefully has all the right parts. Anybody help?
Thanks! Jim

[sargentrs]

You can adjust the distance between the shift collar and the tube flange. Loosen the bolts under the dash and the clamp around the column firewall bracket. Might also have to loosen the clamp and the bearing retainer cone at the lower column bearing. Then grab the outside of the column housing tube and push down toward the firewall to get about 1/16" space between the shift collar and the tube flange. Tighten the bolts under the dash to hold it while you tighten everything else back up. Be sure to slide the lower column bearing retainer cone snugly back into the bearing, slide the clamp back up and tighten securely. Here's a writeup I did on a '71 column. Should be the same. http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... hp?t=72274

[Jim Z]

Thanks for quick reply, I know this is an old thread, glad it's still monitored!
Still trying to figure things out.

The top collar (where the turn-signal bolts in) fastens to the steering column by the 2 bolts, so moving the steering column as you suggest doesn't really change things.

The shift tube, pressed into the shift collar (where the shift arm attaches), is fully compressing the spring above the lower shift arm(where the linkage to trans connects). I could shorten the shift tube a bit to give that spring some room, but there's nothing to counter it's push towards the top collar.

So now when everything is all assembled, the shift collar is tight against the top collar, and I don't see a way to get any clearance between the 2 collars.

[sargentrs]

Are you sure you have the shift collar seated all the way down over the column housing? Check the bottom of the shift collar where the slot is that the wiring goes through. How far up under the shift collar is the slot? In this photo you can see where the bottom of my shift collar rode on the column housing (shiny ring around the column housing).

[sargentrs]

In this photo photo I've marked the only place controllong the depth of the shift collar. If you shave a 1/16" off the bottom of that slot in the column housing, it'll let the collar slide down the shaft a little and shouldn't interfere with shifting.

[Jim Z]

After I posted the last message, I did smooth off the shift tube a little more so that it went deeper into the collar.
The replacement collar bore from LMC was a little undersize, but reducing the OD of the shift tube allowed it to assemble.
Added some white grease to the lip of the shift collar which now rotates inside, but does not press against the fixed collar, just rubs a little on the sides.
Your assembly pics are from the previous generation and appear to have much better bearing design, especially at the steering rod flange end. All that's end the end of this '74 is a plastic insert.

Finally asking about the cancel cam. See attached pic. The steering wheel hub is much too large to accomdate the cancel cam. Wondering if the steering wheel is from a different generation? Or if there's a different cancel cam other than what LMC is showing. I've found their parts breakdown to be somewhat different than my reality....Including their upper bearing which is absolutely incorrect size-wise.
Thanks!
Jim

[sargentrs]

Yeah, something doesn't look quite right. The steering wheel should be the same from '71-'77. Here's a couple of photos from Dennis Carpenter. The first is a back view and the second is a screenshot of a video they showing how they make them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHXGb68oWtE Looking at that boss on the back side, it seems to match up better to that cancelling cam.

[Jim Z]

The top picture you showed looks exactly like my steering wheel.
Although not sure what the notch in the hub is for.

The bottom picture seems (without a micrometer!) to be smaller diameter that might accommodate the cancel cam better.

Is there a picture anywhere of a factory cancel-cam? I didn't see one in your rebuilding photos.

Jim

[sargentrs]

Sorry, I never took a photo of the back of my steering wheel and it's attached to my column which is painted and packaged for storage. I think you have the correct cancelling cam from LMC, it's your wheel that does not appear to be the right one. Everything I can see suggests you should have that large boss on the back side which that cam would then fit. Got a photo of the front of your wheel? The wheels changed in '78, maybe the cam did too? Here's a photo of the '78-'86 model steering wheel's back side. Sure looks like yours. The bottom photo is the front side. The horn pad is flatter across the top than the '71-'77.