1967 camper special brake upgrade

[bochyhawg]

I’ve added a booster with an adjustable rod into my brake system. Also bought a new master cylinder. I’ve thought about adding disc brakes. After we bled the back brakes I discovered I had a bleeder screw stripped up front. So I’ll be spending more money on Grandpa’s ‘67 ford truck. It’s probably the easiest to just order a new wc;but, I have a tendency to do things the hard way. I wouldn’t try using a spring to make the stop lamp switch go off. I have all the parts from a donor ‘68 for the swap.it will have to warm up before I fool with the truck anymore. It runs and looks good. It’s just need some gas stabilizer because I have not had opportunity to run it much. After I check the operation of the booster and stop lamps it will need some more work on the front brakes. Anyone reckon I should continue upgrading at this point? My truck has 16.5 rims and it looks like the same four bolts that hold the back of the drums will hold the parts that the calipers hang on. I’ll be back online after I get the truck out. Wish I knew how to post pics

[basketcase0302]

"bochyhawg"I’ve added a booster with an adjustable rod into my brake system. Also bought a new master cylinder. I’ve thought about adding disc brakes. After we bled the back brakes I discovered I had a bleeder screw stripped up front. So I’ll be spending more money on Grandpa’s ‘67 ford truck. It’s probably the easiest to just order a new wc;but, I have a tendency to do things the hard way. I wouldn’t try using a spring to make the stop lamp switch go off. I have all the parts from a donor ‘68 for the swap.it will have to warm up before I fool with the truck anymore. It runs and looks good. It’s just need some gas stabilizer because I have not had opportunity to run it much. After I check the operation of the booster and stop lamps it will need some more work on the front brakes. Anyone reckon I should continue upgrading at this point? My truck has 16.5 rims and it looks like the same four bolts that hold the back of the drums will hold the parts that the calipers hang on. I’ll be back online after I get the truck out. Wish I knew how to post pics

Ditch the 16.5 rims just as quick as you can pull them off the truck! Guessing they are the split rims? Even if not the 16.5 bias ply tires are not only expensive and hard to find but not safe-as guys would mistakenly put them onto 16" rims, (the more commonly used rim size for our trucks). The bleeder might come out with an easy out but having the wheel cylinder on hand in case it doesn't would be my choice, (as you'll no doubt need the WC down the road soon).

Here's the tutorial on how to post pictures:

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 31&t=22290

[bochyhawg]

I replaced the air filter before this cold weather struck. I been trying to figure out why the truck won’t idle. I’ve not touched the carburetor or choke controls. Could I be losing vacuum through the recently installed brake booster or the valve that I cleaned up? I supposed I could take the line loose at the booster and cap my thumb over the valve.

[basketcase0302]

Yes eliminate, (plug the line) to see if it improves the idle.
A vacuum gauge is an inexpensive tool everyone needs to have on the shelf that pays for itself the first time it diagnoses a leak somewhere.

[bold69]

I just purchased a 1967 camper special and I would like to add a booster as well.
Would you mind to share what all parts were used and where to purchase?

I have a 1965 Mustang with manual drums all around as well but this one I have to step on it pretty hard just to get her to stop and I cant imagine driving this thing in stop and go traffic

[bochyhawg]

I got to work outside a little today. It was a beautiful day. I started by taking the defective booster off the brackets. Then I took the wheel cylinder loose from the front wheel. I’m gonna go check on parts tomorrow. The four nuts that hold the back of the brake drums are 3/4”. I may try to take that off and see if the disc brake hubs will fit. They are four bolts also. I’m not sure if I’m ready to try and make the switch. As far as the booster is concerned, the main thing is that the rod is the correct length and shape for the brake light switch. Oreilly’s offered to sell me a brake booster for less than $100 but the computers said it fit a 1966 ford, which might not fit a 1967. Also the booster in the photo didn’t have an adjustable length rod like the defective booster I took off today. A vacuum gauge sounds like a good idea. The engine seemed to idle a little longer when I capped my thumb over the vacuum line.

[bochyhawg]

I read the tutorial on posting pics. I’ll try a learn some more about that also. Maybe I can get some photos on a server tomorrow.

[BobbyFord]

FWIW, I just upgraded the brakes on my '63 F100 using a later model master and a Cardone 54-73515 brake booster with 68-72 firewall booster bracket. The booster has an adjustable pedal rod and may work for your application.

[sargentrs]

I read the tutorial on posting pics. I’ll try a learn some more about that also. Maybe I can get some photos on a server tomorrow.

You can upload straight from your hard drive if you resize it enough to be under 500kb. http://fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=63154
Works from your phone too.

[bochyhawg]

I didn’t make to the parts store this evening. Oh well, since I’ve got the booster off the truck I could study on upgrading the power steering. The part I’ve been looking for is a bracket to bolt on the bottom of the 300 inline six. This would hold a power steering pump. I have an extra belt groove on the engine. I should have all the other parts to convert to power steering. Those nuts on the bottom of steering boxes could be tough to remove. I tried to upload a pic from my iPhone it was too big. Maybe I’ll have some parts to work with next week.

[idaho_cowboy]

Thought I'd add a bit... There's nothing wrong with 16.5" wheels. There's no such thing as Ford split-rim 16.5" anyway.

All the locking ring wheels on our Fords were 16".

Should he keep the 16.5" there are lots of good options for tires on simpletire.com.

- Joseph

[bochyhawg]

I was planning on measuring those rims. The rims my grandfather had on the back of the truck were two piece rims. The advantage of the two piece rims was that it could be broke down and repaired with simple tools. They require an inner tube. I still have them for spares. Eventually I found some one piece rims that fit on the back axle. The one piece rims on the front of the truck have a smaller center hole. I have heard of 16.5 rims. The older tires I bought were called 750s. These trucks are heavy duty.

[bochyhawg]

I got that new brake booster on today. The threads were stripped on one of the studs but that’s not a big deal. I had to grind the rod shorter to attach it the the brake pedal. I changed the wheel cylinder last week but not before checking to see if the disc brakes fit the spindle. I don’t see how it couldn’t work unless the rim didn’t fit or the proportioning valve/master cylinder is adversley affected. So I’m almost ready to roll. The brakes lights needs a slight adjustment and I’m still having that problem with the truck not idling. I may adjust the fast idle screw when I prime the carburetor again. The truck has sit to long.