I'm giving up ... trouble with the flabby gear arm on my Ford F100 automat

[Ranchero50]

Hummm I think it's probably best that you wrote before removing the wheel and looking for
The shift indicator detent plate. Located on the back of the column. Must see if it is loose or broken. Feels like that's where the fault can be?
As I can see everything seems to be good under the car and up to shifter. so it feels like it is in a column that is broken or loose. Feels that it's sluggish when I put in a gear and that there is resistance in the gear arm.

Stand outside the truck with the door open and wiggle the shifter arm while watching the column lever to see if there's any looseness there. Might need a mirror if your arms aren't long enough.

[johnny55]

thank you for all the help sargents and ranchero 50. sorry i constantly ask again and again but i have some difficulty with translation as it sometimes becomes difficult words and it becomes difficult to understand. so I also ask an extra time so that I really understand. Sargentrs If I understand right now I'll try to adjust the link that is stuck in the shift arm that is the one you have dialed in red color on the image you sent. I'll put the pointer on D and screw on the bolt that sits on the linkage that is sitting in rubber bushing ?? Have I understood correctly. the lever on D and adjust the bolt so that the pointer stands straight on D. Sorry I ask so much but I really want to learn and fix the problem. Google translation is not so good but I hope you understand how I mean. not so easy.
ranchero 50. yes that sounded interesting. I'll try that. I will wiggle shift arm and look at the column and see if there is a gap there or if it feels loose there. if that's not the case. what shall i do then ??

[sargentrs]

That is correct.

[sargentrs]

Just so you have an idea how that pointer is moved and how the shifter locks into the pointer slots, here's some pictures to explain. The first picture is of the shift collar with the shifter installed. There is a spring plunger under the end of the shifter. When you pull the shifter towards you to shift, the plunger compresses allowing the end of the shifter to move toward the dashboard. When you let go, the plunger pushes the end of the shifter against the detent plate locking into the slots. The 2nd photo shows how the end of the shifter is shaped. The tab on the end is what contacts the shifter detent plate. The 3rd photo is the shifter detent plate inside the shift collar. The slot on the left is for Park and where the tab contacts when the transmission is in Park. You have to pull the shifter all the way towards you for the tab on the shifter to clear that slot when you shift. The next notch is Reverse. You can see it is not a solid slot like the Park slot, just a little notch. It only takes a little effort on the shifter to allow you move out of that slot into Neutral. As you can see, there are no slots from Neutral through Drive and 2. You can easily move your shifter through those gears without having to pull it toward you. When your shifter is in these locations, it is the transmission itself that determines where the needle is pointing. This is determined by the linkage rod and the lever on the transmission. This is the adjustment you are trying to get right. The last slot is Low or 1. This also requires you pull in on the shifter to be able to get the tab on the end of the shifter into that slot. Make sense?

[sargentrs]

The pointer itself just rests in the shift collar with the black pointer end sitting in a slot in the shift collar and the clear plastic long part rests on a tab in the shift collar. Nothing holds it fixed and it is free to move with the shift collar.

[johnny55]

Thank you very much sargentrs. This will be my weekend work. hear me later and tell you how it works. thanks for good description.

[Ranchero50]

Info from the '74 Factory service manual. Click on them for full size. Won't help with the looseness but does say to adjust / calibrate the linkage in the 'drive' position.

[johnny55]

thank you very much Ranchero 50. I will read and work with the pickup now this weekend

[johnny55]

Sargentrs. Now I have started 30 degrees hot in the sun here puhhh.
Does it feel like the fault is in my shift collor column? when I shake gently in the gear arm, it feels like something is loose inside. shift is that the bottom is good and the rubber feels fresh so far and it feels solid and good there. Se pic.
I noticed that the 2 screws on the shifter detent plate were a bit loose so I screwed them tight.
What I'm thinking about is that not the last part where the shift arm will be more firm and tough. watch my movie I'm posting here so you understand what I mean. hard to explain in words ....se movie.
https://youtu.be/-rTD-QQbSPY
saw that pointers seem a bit tired, but they can not be such problems. Now I need more tips. Everything seems to be completely inside the column. how do i go on now I'll put it back all over again. I'm also thinking about changing my rag joint but I'll see want to fix this first

[johnny55]

Here is a picture of my pointers.

[johnny55]

How do I take out the neutral safety switch and what should I think of. should try to remove the entire steering column and change the rag joint. how do I put on the neutral safety switch then everything will be right. Have heard that this poses a problem.....

[Ranchero50]

Follow the procedures in the manual I posted.

[sargentrs]

How tight does the shifter feel in this area?

ShiftLeverPlunger.jpg

This tab is what contacts the detent plate and locks the pointer into the different locations. Under there is a spring loaded plunger (#1). There is a rubber insulator (#2) around the pivot point on the shifter lever and the shifter lever is held in with a pin (#3).

ShiftLeverParts.jpg

As you pull the shifter lever toward you when shifting, the lever pushes down on the plunger allowing the tabs to clear the detent plate and when you let go, the plunger pushes the lever back so the tabs are locked into the plate. The rubber insulator and the pin keep the lever snug in the shift collar socket. On my column, the rubber insulator was torn and the pin just sat loosely in the collar. When I rebuilt it, I put a new rubber insulator on and went to my local parts store and selected a roll/drive pin and used it instead. After installation my shifter felt much tighter and I had no sloppiness in the lever any more. If this area is loose, your shifter will flop around and it will make it difficult to get your column in the right gear.

[johnny55]

hi sargentrs. this was my weekend job .... puhhh. I switched to a new rag joint and walked through my steering wheel. lubricated with fat and everything seems perfect so there is nothing wrong with it. so now it's only left column. I'm almost sure that's where the fault is. It was interesting what you wrote about spring loaded plunger (# 1) and There is a rubber insulator (# 2) around the pivot point on the shifter liver and the shifter liver is held in with a pin (# 3)
Can you explain a bit better how you build yours. what did you buy and replace ?? I want to try and do it.
my shifter does not feel tight. Could it be where the fault is. As you look at my picture, the shifter detent plate is broken. It looks good and is full so it may not be the fault. does not look tired but pretty good.
I do not think my shifter arm looks tired on the top where it will enter the detent plate. what do you think. Does it look ok or do I need to replace it all.

became many thoughts today. hope you can explain in a simple way so that I understand how you rebuilt your mind so that it worked well.

Well, I managed to lose my chip to the lower shifter when I removed it. How does this chip look like? so devilish typically that this will happen. The rubber bush looked nice and complete. It does not need to be replaced.

[sargentrs]

Well, I managed to lose my chip to the lower shifter when I removed it. How does this chip look like? so devilish typically that this will happen.

I don't understand what you mean "chip" If your detent plate is broken or cracked, I would replace it. The end of your shift lever looks to be good.

Here's how I rebuilt my column. http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... hp?t=72274