Shift collar adjustment 67 f100

[Gnick4]

I have a 67 f100 automatic that seems to have a problem shifting into gear. It will shift reverse, neutral and drive then stops. If I push the shift collar towards the floor maybe a half inch and hold it then it will shift smoother and into all gears. The question is how do you adjust the collar? Or is something else wrong? The P.O. had changed out steering wheel with a new wheel and horn ring but that shouldn’t matter on the collar.
Thanks for any help in advance.

[sargentrs]

Check your linkage and adjust there first. Have a friend shift as you described while you watch what happens down at the transmission. If everything looks ok then you may have a problem in the shift collar. There's a bracket on the back side of the tube flange that supplies the detents where your shift lever rides. The shift lever itself is in the shift collar. Sounds like you may have an issue where the tab on the shift lever is binding in that bracket. A screw might have come loose on the detent bracket, shift collar may be cracked, couple other scenarios. Take a look here to get an idea how it all works. http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... hp?t=72274 You don't want to tear into the column unless you have to, it can be aggravating and is best done by removing the column from the truck and placing it on the workbench.

[Gnick4]

Great info! I’ll check linkage first, I really don’t want to get into the column unless I have to at some point.

[Gnick4]

Took everything down to shift collar, looks like the top of the collar is worn. Lots of metal shavings and bright metal. I will replace collar and see If that works. I can’t find a way to upload a pic from this dang iPad.

[sargentrs]

Let us know how it works out!

[Gnick4]

Ok, replaced the shift collar and the detent(was broken) put everything back together. Everything works....except it won’t start. I’m guessing something with the neutral safety switch? Not sure how or why it doesn’t work but will not turnover. Any thoughts?

On a side note, I am learning a lot but it is still damn frustrating at times!

[sargentrs]

Here's a video I found on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdIqRl-5cNo I don't have speakers at work so I can't hear what he's saying but the video shows a pretty good explanation of how it works and I think he talks about bypassing it. Not that it's a good idea but it'll help you to trouble shoot. Dennis Carpenter sells replacements for $50.

[sargentrs]

Now that I'm home and can hear what he's saying, I think I know how the switch works. Wish I could find a diagram or an exploded assembly of the circuitry but an hour of searching has led me nowhere. There are apparently 4 contact points on the switch body and 4 contact points on the slide. In the far left position, the circuit is completed across the 2 red wires, completing the start/ignition circuit, allowing you to start. In the second position, the circuit is completed to the back up lights, but only if the key is on. So, some combination of the top/bottom/left/right contacts engage. In the 3rd position, the red wires are again joined, completing the start/ignition circuit, and you can start. In the 4th/last position, the contacts complete only the ignition circuit. I believe if you jumper across the 2 red wires, you effectively bypass the NSS and you can start. Be careful because it will allow you to start in gear.

If anybody out there has a diagram or can verify my assumptions, please post up! This is a repeat question on the forums and it would be nice to have a definitive explanation, maybe even make it a sticky.

[Gnick4]

Thanks for the information. Looks like I broke off the pin that activates the switch! Dummy.......it feels pretty rusted so maybe it’s a blessing it happened now. Thanks again for the help!

[cdnwillyg]

What I found on mine '68 M250, is that in park and neutral you can start the engine. Not able to take apart but my thinking is the one set for the ignition switch has two contact points on the sliding piece which gives this operation. The other contact is for when in reverse, back up lights...should be energized then. I hope this helps. Found this in the tech section.
http://www.fordification.com/tech/wirin ... tranny.jpg

[sargentrs]

Thanks, cdnwillyg! That confirms that jumpering the 2 red wires will bypass the start circuit.

Gnick4, both the switch and the actuator lever at available at DC. Without it you probably don't have any backup lights?

[Gnick4]

I got a new pin that clips onto the column. Had to take everything apart and remove the shaft to get the old pin off. Slid it back in and after feeling like a contortionist I got the new pin snapped in place. I have an in cad ac unit just to the right of the brake pedal which restricts access. Once installed it was still not connecting correctly. I had to loosen the screws on the neutral safety switch and slide it just a little to the left. Now everything works perfectly.

After I had completed, I thought dang I should have taken pics.....oh well.
Thanks again for all the help. Learning a lot on this old girl but she’s worth it.

[sargentrs]

Congrats!