Hi guy's, I am sure this subject on bleeding the brake system has been covered before but I have just gone through rebuilding my pressure differential valve along with my metering valve thanks to Scott at Musclecar research. I also have the locating tool installed to keep the valve centered while bleeding. At this point is bleeding the normal routine starting with the wheel furtherst from the master cylinder or is the procedure different to do this correctly? And yes I am aware of removing the locating tool after bleeding the system.
Thanks
brake bleeding after rebuilding pressure differential valve
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CobrajetF-250428
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ultraranger
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Re: brake bleeding after rebuilding pressure differential valve
RR, LR, RF, LF.
Steve
1969 SWB F100 Ranger. 240-6, C-4, 9" N-case 31-spline Traction-Lok w/3.50 gears.
1968 Mustang. My high school car. Owned since 1982.
2003 Azure Blue Mustang Mach1.
1969 SWB F100 Ranger. 240-6, C-4, 9" N-case 31-spline Traction-Lok w/3.50 gears.
1968 Mustang. My high school car. Owned since 1982.
2003 Azure Blue Mustang Mach1.
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MadMike
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Re: brake bleeding after rebuilding pressure differential valve
If you have the metering valve hold off tool and the differential valve holding tool, there really should be no worries when bleeding the system.
I prefer vacuum bleeding (~15inHg), bleed normally, just make sure all the bleed valves are closed save from the one you are pulling from. I prefer to put a wrapping of teflon gas tape on the bleeder valve to prevent false air bubbles. I usually have two bleeder valves, the one I'm using for bleeding will be crudded up with tape and stuck to the hose, the other will be clean and easily install. Also I have a bottle of Simple Green/409 cleaner at the ready, spray around where the fluid may leak. When done just hose it down and combo of Simple Green and water will prevent rear from becoming sticky or damage any painted parts.
I prefer vacuum bleeding (~15inHg), bleed normally, just make sure all the bleed valves are closed save from the one you are pulling from. I prefer to put a wrapping of teflon gas tape on the bleeder valve to prevent false air bubbles. I usually have two bleeder valves, the one I'm using for bleeding will be crudded up with tape and stuck to the hose, the other will be clean and easily install. Also I have a bottle of Simple Green/409 cleaner at the ready, spray around where the fluid may leak. When done just hose it down and combo of Simple Green and water will prevent rear from becoming sticky or damage any painted parts.
-Michael