So I pulled the passengers side drum off to inspect and noticed that with the engine off if you press the brake, only the front shoe engages, the rear shoe of that same passenger side wheel doesn't move at all.
Question is, is this normal or is this the source of my pulling right issue?
Thank you
Pulls to the right when braking
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- Timd
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Pulls to the right when braking
1969 Ford F100 Custom Cab
302
302
-
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Re: Pulls to the right when braking
You didn't mention whether you had drums all around, so I'll assume you do.
Pulling when braking may mean a misadjusted brake, a bad wheel cylinder, or a deteriorated brake hose.
Dial the star wheels back, take off the drums, and see if brakes on one wheel are worn more than the other-this may indicate that it was misadjusted, or that the cylinder or hose is bad.
If you haven't done it for a while (or ever), it can't hurt to replace the brake hoses-the manufacturers claim that they deteriorate from the inside, which impedes the flow of fluid back toward the master cylinder, causing the affected brake to release more slowly than it should and thus wear prematurely. Especially if they are the originals, replace them-they are generally about $10 each.
Then, inspect your wheel cylinders-brake fluid is hygroscopic, so fluid that sits in the cylinders for a long time can rust them out. The fluid can also eat away at the rubber seals-this, together with the rust, can leave you with rusty black crud in the cylinders. It is a good maintenance practice for all vehicles, perhaps even more so for old vehicles and those that don't get used often, to pump fresh fluid into the cylinders or calipers periodically-I do it whenever I do any brake work on my modern vehicles, and once a year on my trucks.
You may wish to replace your brake shoes and hardware if your cylinders are bad, because you will have to remove them anyway. Also consider having a machine shop turn your drums. Finally, adjust and bleed the brakes.
If you feel motivated, and don't mind spending a few more dollars and hours on your truck, consider replacing the crusty old brake lines and fittings-you may be forced to do some anyway. I replaced all the lines except those that come out of the master cylinder with copper-nickel-iron line. It costs more than steel, but it doesn't rust and is easy to bend and flare.
Refreshing your brakes doesn't cost much in the grand scheme of things, and gives you a safer vehicle. I did mine last summer-all the cylinders were full of crud, some of the shoes were quite worn, the hoses were old and brittle, and many of the fittings were rusted together. This, along with new seat belts, ranks as one of the most worthwhile repairs I have done on the old truck.
Pulling when braking may mean a misadjusted brake, a bad wheel cylinder, or a deteriorated brake hose.
Dial the star wheels back, take off the drums, and see if brakes on one wheel are worn more than the other-this may indicate that it was misadjusted, or that the cylinder or hose is bad.
If you haven't done it for a while (or ever), it can't hurt to replace the brake hoses-the manufacturers claim that they deteriorate from the inside, which impedes the flow of fluid back toward the master cylinder, causing the affected brake to release more slowly than it should and thus wear prematurely. Especially if they are the originals, replace them-they are generally about $10 each.
Then, inspect your wheel cylinders-brake fluid is hygroscopic, so fluid that sits in the cylinders for a long time can rust them out. The fluid can also eat away at the rubber seals-this, together with the rust, can leave you with rusty black crud in the cylinders. It is a good maintenance practice for all vehicles, perhaps even more so for old vehicles and those that don't get used often, to pump fresh fluid into the cylinders or calipers periodically-I do it whenever I do any brake work on my modern vehicles, and once a year on my trucks.
You may wish to replace your brake shoes and hardware if your cylinders are bad, because you will have to remove them anyway. Also consider having a machine shop turn your drums. Finally, adjust and bleed the brakes.
If you feel motivated, and don't mind spending a few more dollars and hours on your truck, consider replacing the crusty old brake lines and fittings-you may be forced to do some anyway. I replaced all the lines except those that come out of the master cylinder with copper-nickel-iron line. It costs more than steel, but it doesn't rust and is easy to bend and flare.
Refreshing your brakes doesn't cost much in the grand scheme of things, and gives you a safer vehicle. I did mine last summer-all the cylinders were full of crud, some of the shoes were quite worn, the hoses were old and brittle, and many of the fittings were rusted together. This, along with new seat belts, ranks as one of the most worthwhile repairs I have done on the old truck.
Fred
1970 F100 4WD short bed, 360 engine, very rusty plow and yard truck
1971 F100 2WD long bed, 302 engine, on the road
1968 F100 2WD long bed, 360 engine, stripping for parts
1970 F100 4WD short bed, 360 engine, very rusty plow and yard truck
1971 F100 2WD long bed, 302 engine, on the road
1968 F100 2WD long bed, 360 engine, stripping for parts
- Timd
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- Location: Las Vegas
Re: Pulls to the right when braking
Thank you, I will give these a try.
1969 Ford F100 Custom Cab
302
302
- jzjames
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Re: Pulls to the right when braking
And don't install the shoes backwards. There's a front and back.