1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 7/9 rubicon

[1971ford]

The POR-15'd chassis, floor, inner fenders, back of fenders, etc. are not in direct UV light.
Only vulnerable por-15 is the front of the core support, which i misted with rustoleum.

[jzjames]

Only vulnerable por-15 is the front of the core support, which i misted with rustoleum.

Yeah.
Hope your Por15 sticks.

[averagef250]

POR 15 looks like hell in a few years if it even sees light. It turns into a crusty white powder.

[1971ford]

I'm aware. I have a por-15'd 2wd frame in my sideyard thats been exposed for years.
The highboy seems to be fine, I kept it covered the best i could while it sat for a year. It needs a good cleaning though.

[koch68]

So its best to paint over the por15?

[jzjames]

My suggestion is think outside the box. And re-think the whole Por15 malarky. I havent seen very good penetration and adhesion into the rusted surface steel that the product is supposed to have. I dont think in converts rust into anything.

Ive used materials and products for a long time in industry and for my own use. Por15 is a convoluted can of worms. I skip it for the most part except occasionally the PorPutty. But even that is not any better than JBWeld - that I can see.
People will also get all wrapped up in primer. Unless your a professional painter and know what youre using, Id cast a skeptical eye on "primer''. It will often prime your paintjob up for failure.

Look into Rusty Metal Primer if youre going to prime surface rusted frames and parts.
VHT & Duplicolor Engine Enamel is a decent rattlecan paint. I'd spray the hell out of the cleaned frame with just that.
You have to spray it onto clean, sound, surface. Clean it by hand or if you think thats not possible, pressure wash it. I use Comet/Ajax, scrubbing with brushes after the grease and rust scale is completely removed. Then I hose it off with the garden hose and make sure it gets dried and then use Rusty Metal Primer, can or spraybomb, and/or straight Engine Enamel. And Forget Krylon, household Rustoleum, etc.,
just my suggestion.....

[1971ford]

My suggestion is think outside the box. And re-think the whole Por15 malarky. I havent seen very good penetration and adhesion into the rusted surface steel that the product is supposed to have. I dont think in converts rust into anything.

Ive used materials and products for a long time in industry and for my own use. Por15 is a convoluted can of worms. I skip it for the most part except occasionally the PorPutty. But even that is not any better than JBWeld - that I can see.
People will also get all wrapped up in primer. Unless your a professional painter and know what youre using, Id cast a skeptical eye on "primer''. It will often prime your paintjob up for failure.

Look into Rusty Metal Primer if youre going to prime surface rusted frames and parts.
VHT & Duplicolor Engine Enamel is a decent rattlecan paint. I'd spray the hell out of the cleaned frame with just that.
You have to spray it onto clean, sound, surface. Clean it by hand or if you think thats not possible, pressure wash it. I use Comet/Ajax, scrubbing with brushes after the grease and rust scale is completely removed. Then I hose it off with the garden hose and make sure it gets dried and then use Rusty Metal Primer, can or spraybomb, and/or straight Engine Enamel. And Forget Krylon, household Rustoleum, etc.,
just my suggestion.....

The por-15 was painted over a 100% sandblasted chassis, and stripped underbody. I never had to paint over any rust at all.

[1971ford]

Deadline is March.
The more i look at it the more i realize there is so much that needs to be improved on. Damn standards!
It should be clean once it hits the road again!

[rattlecan]

Dang Ryan!! Too many Monsters!! This thing is sick!! LOVING IT!!

[koch68]

Is that front receiver hitch made from a 2x4 tube ?

[1971ford]

Dang Ryan!! Too many Monsters!! This thing is sick!! LOVING IT!!

Thanks!
Haven't touched it since last update though. Been working on the other project and have drained my account on that instead of finishing the highboy

Is that front receiver hitch made from a 2x4 tube ?

The crossmember? I forget. I can measure for you. It's certainly not 2x4 though. The receiver is 2.5" itself (receiver is flashout 2.5, stuff used for receivers as it has no inner seam). I'm guessing i used 3x5 .250.

[Art]

Also, be sure to follow the procedure for setting up the OD piston selective shim. It's in the ATSG book if you already have one. You can't just figure it will work because it worked before. The shim is dependant on the OD clutch stack height, change clutches, gotta change shim. There's a sonnex universal kit if you want to buy it in advance, but the solid shims are cheaper.

This is critical for the direct clutches and OD clutches to live.

Previous owner rebuilt a 47RH I have and it failed because they did exactly what Dustin said not to do. Was similar to driving a stick truck with zero freeplay in the clutch throwout bearing... you can guess what happened over time...

PM me if you need advice on building the OD section of your 518. I know them well

My 79 F250 6BT conversion project:
http://www.fordification.net/forums/vie ... f=14&t=963

[koch68]

If you could measure and maybe throw in some details on it. That would be great. I've got a metals project I need for school soon and want to build that. It seems like the best design and sturdy

[koch68]

Did your previous steering setup with the drag link in the tie rod work good? I want to change my steering because the steering arm on the knuckle that the drag link connects to hits my shock.

[1971ford]

That setup was terrible. The drag link rolls the tie rod over back and forth giving you a flat spot in the steering. Locking the TRE's or heims on the ends of the tie rod does you no good, it will break them lose. Tack welding the jam nuts is not a good idea either. You'll also get bump steer.

New high steer setup should be perfect and better in every way.