1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 7/9 rubicon

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1971ford
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Re: 1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 6/10

Post by 1971ford »

Yeah i think it all comes down to how well you've got the driveline angle of the cummins/trans pointed in line with the t-case. I'd hate to do all the work only to find that the super short driveline causes vibrations or something. Just looked at my center driveline and it will need to be completely redone, the tube itself is only about 9" long, the slip shaft makes up for the rest of it.

Seems my best option right now is swap the 518 in, shorten the center driveline and hope for the best.

In fact, I just gave the guy with the 518 a call... and am headed out the door for a 8 hour round trip to pick it up right now.
Well I'm glad you talked me out of running the non OD having 727, $250 for an overdrive is well worth it!
-Ryan
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Re: 1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 6/10

Post by averagef250 »

1971ford wrote: $250 for an overdrive is well worth it!
Not much chance you could regear both axles for less than that.

I hope the center driveline can be made to work well for you.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
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Re: 1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 6/10

Post by 1971ford »

Yep, and with regearing the axles I'd lose a little take-off oomph like you said... This way I get more than enough highway cruising speed for me and don't loose take-off power.

$240 and he threw in the driveline and TC.
Image
Dustin, what should I do for the center driveline in regards to trans side as far as slip or fixed yoke? The 518 is slip (why i grabbed his driveline as well so i can use that part of the driveline if i need to... or even can), and the 727/my driveshaft is fixed.
Hand the driveline shop the 518's driveshaft (to use slip joint off of) and my center driveline and let them do the thinking?
518 sure is a long sucker. Hoping for the best with the driveline but i'm confident i will make it work either way.
-Ryan
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Re: 1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 6/10

Post by averagef250 »

The first gen dodge driveline will have 1350 U-joints. What size is the input yoke on the Dana 24? 1330? I'd think the easiest way to take care of it would be to cut the dodge driveline up into a shorty with 1350 yokes on each end and buy an adapter joint to connect to whatever size yoke you have on the 24. This would also allow you to go back to a 1350 if you swapped in a 205 since you can get 1350 yokes for the 205.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
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Re: 1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 6/10

Post by 1971ford »

I like that idea.

Next question. How do I set up the overdrive? I don't want any more wiring than I have to run. How can I set up a manual overdrive switch or button? Why would you ever turn OD off?
-Ryan
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Re: 1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 6/10

Post by Ranchero50 »

OD runs off a pressure switch that taps into the governor port. I picked mine up off of eBay for around $30, set it to @35-40 psi for 35-40 mph.

Dustin ended up with the same switch, hopefully the seller is still around.

Jamie
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Re: 1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 6/10

Post by 1971ford »

Ok looking for one of those badboys right now.

I have everything to fully rebuild a 727 (no overdrive) with all the fancy parts arriving tomorrow, but hadn't planned on running a 518 so now i have everything to rebuild the 518 minus the overdrive section.

Would it be stupid to not order everything to rebuild the overdrive section now? The guy I got the transmission from said the transmission was flawless and he pulled 10,000lbs a few times with it in ovedrive (not sure if that's a good or bad thing..) and no issues. What's all in there? Another clutch pack to replace?
-Ryan
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Re: 1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 6/10

Post by koch68 »

Why don't you want a 5 speed?
Taylor-
1968 F250 Highboy np435 dana 24 4.10's
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Re: 1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 6/10

Post by 1971ford »

koch68 wrote:Why don't you want a 5 speed?
I did for a while, but have decided to go auto for a few reasons. It's a daily driver... usually I would rather have a stick for a daily driver but a diesel stick is nothing like a gasser stick. Gasser sticks really dont even require any thought and are fun to drive daily. Diesel sticks are still fun but I'd rather have a BUILT auto than a stick in this case. My other truck will be a stick.
Also cost... Figure I find a NV4500 for $1k, then I still need a new clutch (decent clutch $700), master and slave cylinders, then have to hook up a hydraulic clutch, and modify my trans tunnel for the shifter, not to mention i'd need to swap the adapter plate and starter... Figured swapping in a 5speed would be about $2500 with much more down time.

I will have about $1500 into my freshly rebuilt and "built" auto 4 speed. I'll be back on the road sooner, can squeeze a third person in the cab now if i wanted (assuming the rules are followed, and it's not 3 dudes) and so on..
-Ryan
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Re: 1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 6/10

Post by 1971ford »

If anyone local wants to help work on this beast shoot me a PM.... need helping hands. LOTS to do. Looking at my "To Do before I drive it again" list now, looks like i'm rebuilding the whole truck again.
Most of it doesn't need to be done to drive it but I don't want to let myself drive it until the list is DONE or else I'll never fix all the little things I don't like.

Re-install t-case and rear driveshaft.
Drain t-case, fabricate support strut, new fluid, new gasket. Most likely I won't even run this thing but i'll get it ready anyways.
Fabricate Differential armor front/rear
Pressure wash underside of truck/cummins/transmission
clean/paint u-bolts
sandblast wheels, install beadlock rings, powdercoating, swap tires on. Acquire spare wheel/tire.
Clean/paint u-bolts front/rear
Remove bench seat, have rip repaired, finish carpeting, install amp under seat and subwoofer behind seat. Fit boxed 6x9's if I can.
Install CB (and ext. speaker), Wire trailer brake controller, CB, and stereo. Mount Mag lite.
Repair inner fender cracks
Figure out core support mounting situation and reconstruct front end.
Rebuild transmission
KDP fix
Oil change/filter
Finish flatbed notch
Front pinion rebuild
Fix leaking ve pumps gasket
Body work/paint on whole truck, re-assemble
Optima battery and hold down
New center driveline
4x4 shifter
Reverse column shifter direction
New steering shaft setup
Seal holes in firewall
Fab rear lower shock mounts (for better angle)
Chevy 64" spring swap in rear
I know there's more...
-Ryan
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Re: 1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 6/10

Post by Ranchero50 »

'70 F-350 CS Cummins 6BT 10klb truck 64k mile Bahama Blue

Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.
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Re: 1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 6/10

Post by averagef250 »

Don't kid yourself... Stickshift is always cheaper than automatic. Unless you're trying to race a diesel then auto is the only way to make them fast or if you just plain can't drive three pedals properly.

I think you're on the right track to getting your truck on the road in a reasonable time frame with the OD auto though. Hopefully the center driveline is an easy job and everything packages well.

You got some work ahead of you!
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
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Re: 1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 6/10

Post by Ranchero50 »

Yep, I'm all for cleaning and painting the U joints bolts, just send me some airline tickets and I'll be right over.
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Re: 1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 6/10

Post by Ranchero50 »

Similiar pressure switches to the ones I got. I didn't see the same number and don't understande the rising or lowering spec in the listings.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Business-Indust ... _nkw=wasco
'70 F-350 CS Cummins 6BT 10klb truck 64k mile Bahama Blue

Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.
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Re: 1969 F250 4x4 Highboy 6/10

Post by 1971ford »

averagef250 wrote:Don't kid yourself... Stickshift is always cheaper than automatic. Unless you're trying to race a diesel then auto is the only way to make them fast or if you just plain can't drive three pedals properly.

I think you're on the right track to getting your truck on the road in a reasonable time frame with the OD auto though. Hopefully the center driveline is an easy job and everything packages well.

You got some work ahead of you!
Well, I may have to put a ricer buddy in his place (on a closed course of course :wink: ) so the auto will save me from shift lag. I plan on running the 1/4 mile a few times just for fun as well. Good way to find a weak link, especially if i launch in 4hi like the fast guys do :lol:
Ranchero50 wrote:Yep, I'm all for cleaning and painting the U joints bolts, just send me some airline tickets and I'll be right over.
Can I send you the u-bolts instead? :lol:
I put all the custom u-bolts on thinking they were rust protected in some way like the other u-bolts i've always ran, but no, they are all hideous looking now. Picked up some more brushes today to do brush some rustoleum on a few things.
Ranchero50 wrote:Similiar pressure switches to the ones I got. I didn't see the same number and don't understande the rising or lowering spec in the listings.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Business-Indust ... _nkw=wasco
Thanks for the link. I'm researching how to set those things up.

Knocked a few things off the list today... was hoping to knock off twice as much but have to go help a buddy and his 4x4 project so I can come home with his pressure washer. Oh.. and added just as many things to the list that I knocked off. :cry:
-Ryan
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